September 9, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

http://www.examiner.com/gardening-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

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These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners

Today looks like another beautiful day but beware of the weather tomorrow.  We may get some severe storms.  September has started out as a wet and stormy month.  Keep a watch out for frost warnings this weekend and early next week. 

The gardens are looking a little drab this week.  There is a new flush of shrub rose bloom, mums and hardy hibiscus are still blooming.  I have tons and tons of sunflowers blooming but the plants got huge this year- 8 or more feet tall and then started falling over.  They fell across the rest of the garden and I have been hacking them up, bringing the flowers inside and throwing the rest on the compost pile.  I have been trying to leave some for the goldfinches but they have made a mess of the garden those plants.  Next year most of the volunteers will be pulled early.

I think my veggie garden is just about done.  One tomato plant still looks decent, the rest are really falling victim to blight- although not late blight.  The sweet corn is done, the cucumbers dead from powdery mildew. Once I get the fallen sunflowers chopped up I’ll look for the shallots I planted.  I have one cantaloupe and 1 watermelon almost ripe and our pumpkins are turning orange.  They say it’s a good year for pumpkins although our crop is much less than last year with smaller pumpkins and vines.

Along the roadsides the leaves are coloring up and the asters are beginning to bloom.  Purple asters and goldenrod are a pretty combination but it sure looks like fall.

Late blight now in Michigan

Late blight has hit home gardens in Michigan and is causing the tomato season to wind up early.  Some commercial farms are also experiencing late blight problems.  Other fungal diseases of tomatoes have also caused tomatoes to take a big hit.  Late blight spores can be spread on the wind and conditions are excellent for their development so if you don’t have late blight yet you may have it before frost.  At this point you may not want to spray, since the season is just about done, but if you want to save your plants until frost takes them you probably need to start fungicide sprays immediately.

Late blight completely destroys your plants in about 5-10 days.  Other blights generally leave some green leaves growing on the end of branches.  Look for gray-black dried leaves, spots and sunken areas on stems, and yellow-tan areas on fruit, including green fruit, which quickly turn to soft rotted areas.  See the information on using and canning tomatoes from late blight infected plants in the section – More Information- below.

Home owner control is generally a fungicide containing Chorothalonil commonly called Daconil.  Copper products may have some value and can be combined with Chorothalonil.  Make sure to pick a product labeled for food plants and follow directions exactly.  There is no use in spraying plants already infected with late blight, the spray only prevents, not cures the infection. 

Late blight

If you have a plant showing symptoms of late blight pull it up and place it in a black trash bag, try to get all leaves and fruit around the plant too.  Close the bag tightly and put it in the sun until you can send it to a landfill.  If a landfill isn’t possible dried plants can be burnt or buried deeply far from the garden.  Do not compost the plants; it will spread spores of late blight.  Do not rototill or add compost, manure or mulch to the bed where the tomatoes were growing until next spring.  Any spores left on the soil surface will be killed by winter conditions but burying them may let them survive.  And next spring plant tomatoes and potatoes as far from that spot as you can.

If your tomato plants appear to be dying and you don’t know for sure its late blight it might be just as well to dispose of them and call the season over.  I suspect we will have an early frost with weather patterns being what they are and the weather continues to favor fungal infection.

The domestication of peaches

New research confirms that peaches began to be domesticated some 7,500 years ago.  Using peach pits found in archeological sites researchers in China and at the University of Toronto collaborated on a study that found peaches were first domesticated in the Yangtze River Valley in China and cultivated for about 3,000 years before they began to resemble today’s peaches.

Wild peaches have little juicy flesh and are small and not as sweet as domestic peaches.  They also ripen over a long period on each tree, and modern peaches ripen their crop at one time.   Researchers believe that as early as 5,000 years ago farmers were producing peaches from grafting and starting cuttings to increase traits they liked in certain peaches and creating orchards of similar trees.  This is interesting information because while grain and root crops history has been widely researched tree fruit crops have not.

Why the USDA recommended diet may actually harm the environment

All kinds of studies have been done on how our diets- what we like to eat- contributes to global warming, water pollution and other environmental problems.  A new study done by the University of Michigan and published this month in the Journal of Industrial Ecology examined 100 crops that are considered to be part of a healthy diet. 

The USDA’s healthy diet scheme as revised in 2010 is high in vegetables and fruits, whole grains, dairy and limited in meats, fats and sugars.  This diet is also being questioned by new research but the U of M research wanted to find the impact of asking people to consume more vegetables, fruits and grains on the environment.

The study concludes that if we kept the calorie content the average person consumes constant and everyone actually followed the USDA guidelines greenhouse gas emissions would increase by 12% from current levels.  If everyone cut their calorie content to 2,000 calories or less and followed the recommended diet greenhouse emissions would only decrease 1% from current levels.

Eating local in season fruits and vegetables is good for you and the environment but the practice of eating out of season produce that has to travel long distances in refrigerated conditions should not be encouraged if we care about the environment.  Often these crops require lots of water that ends up being polluted and they are also major users of pesticides that damage humans and other species.  

When people eat more fruits, vegetables, grains and dairy products to fulfill calorie requirements instead of meat the environment is adversely affected and new evidence now being presented this may not be the healthiest diet anyway.  Our current method of producing meat, especially beef, does lead to lots of greenhouse admissions.  We feed livestock too much grain and confine them too closely.  But if we went back to grass fed beef and dairy, lessened grain consumption by other animals and we allowed animals more space, used fewer hormones and antibiotics in meat production then a diet with more meat and fewer out of season fruits and vegetables and less grain would actually be better for us and the environment than the current USDA diet recommendations.

Unusual early spring bulbs to plant this fall

It’s that time of year, time to order bulbs for fall planting so that you will have beautiful spring flowers.  When gardeners think of spring flowering bulbs they often picture the traditional tulips and daffodils, with an occasional allium or crocus thrown in.  Some gardeners think these are boring, or that bulbs look best in formal gardens with straight lines or that mass quantities are needed to look good.  

But there are all kinds of spring flowering bulbs out there and many unusual variations of the common bulbs that can make the early spring garden interesting.  They can be tucked into informal garden beds, rock gardens or odd corners.  Bulbs are easy to plant, and if you buy healthy bulbs from a reputable company you are almost guaranteed a good spring show.

Today’s article will discuss the earliest flowering bulbs.  I’ll discuss other spring bulbs next week.

You may want to begin spring with Snowdrops, (Galanthus sp.) Snowdrops put up pretty white bell shaped flowers with green markings over grass-like foliage in the very early spring, often through the snow and before the crocus bloom.  Snowdrops like heavier soils and tolerate damp areas, and will bloom in sun or can be planted under deciduous trees where they will finish their life cycle before the trees leaf out.  Look for larger flowered varieties like G. elwesii or G. Sam Arnott.  Plant them near walkways, outside a window or in other areas where you can see the spring show.  They are also good in rock gardens. 

Leucojum or “Snowflakes” closely follow “Snowdrops” in bloom.  They have similar white nodding bell shaped flowers but Leucojum are also fragrant.  The variety “Summer Snowflake” will extend the season into late spring.  Leucojum likes the same conditions as Galanthus.  Both Snowdrops and Snowflakes will multiply in good conditions.

If you like a bit of color try Winter Aconite,(Eranthis)  tiny bright yellow butter cup type flowers that bloom about the same time as Snowdrops.  The foliage can emerge bronze or green, depending on species.  Winter Aconite likes light shade, even in spring.  Its slightly taller and larger flowered than crocus and looks nice in drifts or large clumps. It’s animal proof, just like daffodils.  Eranthis can be a bit tricky to establish, look for nurseries that offer wax dipped bulbs and plant the bulbs as soon as you get them.  Once established it will multiply in good conditions.

Iris reticulata

The iris family has 3 species that are small and early blooming.  Iris danfordiae are usually shades of yellow with brown markings. Iris histroides are usually shades of blue with yellow crests or blotches and are often hybridized with other early iris species. Iris reticulata are generally deep, true blues, with some lighter colored blues, violets and even pinks. Some varieties are fragrant.  Most of these specie iris bloom close to the ground.  Don’t confuse them with Dutch Iris which bloom much later in spring on taller spikes. 

Siberian Squill, (Scillia siberica)is an early bloomer than will quickly form drifts of blue or white (or a mixture). It’s earlier than the more familiar grape hyacinth.  The flowers look like loose hyacinth flowers and are mildly fragrant.  It has grass like foliage and be planted in naturalized lawns without worry as the foliage has generally died before the lawn needs mowing. It is extremely hardy and grows anywhere. Siberian squill spreads by seed as well as multiplying its bulbs.  The variety “Spring Beauty” is the one often seen in catalogs and has slightly larger flowers.  There are later blooming and less hardy Squills.

Puschkinia Libanotica is often called Lebanon Squill, although it is not a squill.   It is hardy to Zone 5.  Puschkinia has pale blue flowers in clusters rather like hyacinth.  It blooms quite early, about 6 inches tall, maybe a bit later than crocus. It will also spread rapidly through seed and bulbs when its in a happy place.

Cyclamen coum is a very early blooming cyclamen, hardy to zone 5. The tiny magenta pink flowers look just like florist cyclamen in miniature.  Plants have rounded, plain green foliage.  Plant cyclamen in a shady location in compost rich soil.  Cyclamen can be difficult to get started.  Plant bulbs immediately on arrival.  They may not sprout the first year so mark the spot and be patient.  Cyclamen bulbs don’t make additional bulbs, but the bulb gets bigger each year with more flowers produced.  They can multiply by seed when conditions are right.

Helleborus orientalis vary in bloom time from very early spring to fall or mid-winter depending on the weather and variety. They really aren’t bulb forming plants but are sold with spring bulbs.  They have rose like single or double flowers in a variety of colors and are sometimes called “Lenten Rose.” Plant helleborus in light, well drained organic and slightly alkaline soil in partial shade. Deer and other animals do not like them and if they are in the right spot and not disturbed they will eventually form large colonies, where they will show up the best.  Helleborus now has numerous hybrids and varieties to choose from.  “Midnight Ruffles” has dark purple almost black ruffled double flowers. “Pink Parachutes” has very large single flowers of bright rose pink.  “Mango Magic” has apricot yellow flowers speckled with rose.

Crocus are probably the top planted early spring flowering bulb. Bees like crocus for early foraging so do plant some.  The new, large flowered Dutch varieties are great for early color but don’t forget some of the older varieties and odd species.  “Miss Vain” is an old variety of Crocus biflorus.  It’s white with a blue base/center and a delightful fragrance.  Crocus tommasinianus often called “Tommies” are a beautiful lavender and are said to be less liked by mice, chipmunks and voles than other crocus. C. imperati var. DeJager often called Italian crocus, are an odd violet-rose color crocus with larger, more vase like flowers in clusters. “Negro Boy” is a heritage Dutch crocus, with almost black purple flowers with a gold center. “Orange Monarch” is a newer snow crocus on the market, that is golden orange inside with purple feathering on the outside that is quite stunning in early spring.  Crocus seiberi are native to Greece and come in a variety of colors with golden throats and a soft fragrance.

Kaufmanniana tulips are very early blooming members of the tulip family.  They are short, ground hugging plants which often have variegated foliage with stripes or spots. Most are single flowered and open wide and flat in sunny weather, often displaying a base color of a contrasting color.  There are a few double varieties such as “Holland Baby”, a bright red.  There are many colors.  Kaufmanniana tulips are nice for sunny spots where they can easily be seen or in rock gardens. They tend to last for many years in the garden unlike some tulips.  They mix well with the small early iris like Iris reticulate.

This week’s weed- Burdock

If you have farm animals or pets you have probably encountered the annoying “burrs” in their coats, which are the seed pods of the common burdock, (Arctium minus). This is an extremely proficient way for the burdock plant to spread its seeds near and far. 

Burdock is a bi-annual plant.  In the first year it puts down a thick, long taproot and a rosette of large broad leaves.  In the late summer of the second year burdock sends up long flowering stems. The stems may be streaked with purplish red and they have a grooved, rough surface. Burdock has purple tuft-like flowers at the top of a rounded mass of green, hooked bracts.  The bracts turn brown and form the familiar round burr as the seeds ripen and dry.

Left alone in good soil burdock leaves can grow huge - 2 foot long and wide. The leaves have a grayish looking underside because they are covered with fine white hairs.  The hollow flowering stems can reach 5 feet into the air and are thick and tough. 

Cut down burdock that kept producing burs.

Burdock usually grows in full sun and prefers rich soil although it can pop up in other places.  You must be vigilant and remove young plants from pastures and other areas as soon as you see them as the older they get the harder they are to remove, and letting them go to seed compounds the problem.  Even when kept mowed, burdock will struggle along and produce its burrs on plants a few inches from the ground.  The flowers will continue to ripen and become burrs if cut from the plant while still green and are often found in hay.

Asian species of burdock are cultivated for their roots and American species also have edible roots.  The young leaves of burdock can be eaten as a salad green. The stems can be peeled and cooked also.  Burdock has many medicinal uses, the roots, seeds and dried leaves are used.

Enjoy the good weather while it lasts- get outside today.

Kim Willis

 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information

Are tomatoes and potatoes with late blight safe for eating and canning?

Late blight on tomatoes and potatoes is a devastating fungal disease that has surfaced in Michigan.

Posted on September 1, 2014 by Jeannie Nichols, Michigan State University Extension

 Late blight is affecting Michigan tomato and potato growers and home gardeners alike. The late blight has already been reported in Allegan, Clinton, Gratiot, Ingham, Ionia, Isabella, Macomb, Montcalm and St Joseph counties on USA blight. USA blight is a national website project on tomato and potato late blight in the United States. At this site you can report disease occurrences, submit a sample online, observe disease occurrence maps and sign up for text disease alerts. There are also useful links to a decision support system, and information about identification and management of the disease.

Late blight in both tomatoes and potatoes is caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans and is a worldwide destructive disease. It is what led to the Irish potato famine in 1845.

Under favorable weather conditions, tomato and potato crops can be destroyed within days. Cool, moist conditions are considered most favorable for this fungus to develop and spread. This blight is highly contagious to other plants in home gardens and commercial fields.

Do not can tomatoes with late blight. Tomatoes showing signs of late blight disease have firm, dark brown lesions that quickly become large, wrinkled and somewhat sunken. Fungus infestation may lower the acidity of the tomato flesh to a level that makes it unsafe for canning. Even tomatoes with the infected parts removed should not be canned. The United States Department of Agriculture Complete Guide to Home Canning recommends that only disease-free, preferably vine-ripened, firm tomatoes be used for canning.

According to Dr. Barbara Ingham, food safety specialist with the University of Wisconsin Extension, you can safety eat and preserve unblemished tomatoes growing on plants with leaves, stems or adjacent fruit showing signs of infection. However, these tomatoes are at a higher risk for developing the late blight lesions after they are harvested, so make sure to eat or process these tomatoes as soon as possible after harvesting them.

Michigan State University Extension always informs home canners of the importance of acidifying tomatoes. Adding bottled lemon juice or citric acid to your disease-free tomatoes raises the acidity level enough that Clostridium botulinum spores cannot survive, and produce a deadly toxin that causes botulism. Add two tablespoons of bottled lemon juice or a half-teaspoon of citric acid to each quart of tomatoes. For pints, use one tablespoon of bottle lemon juice or one-quarter teaspoon citric acid. Just add the lemon juice or citric acid before filling the jars with tomatoes or tomato juice.

It is also not recommended to eat fresh or frozen diseased tomatoes even if the diseased parts have been cut out. The disease organism by itself is not harmful but the tissue damage causes the tomatoes to have lower acidity and creates conditions that promote the growth of other potentially harmful microorganisms. The tomatoes may or may not have an off flavor.

The exact same advice is given for potatoes. Only use firm, disease free potatoes for eating, canning or freezing. Never use potatoes showing sign of late blight. Discard the whole potato rather than cutting off diseased parts because the fungus may spread to the inside of the potato. Potatoes are a low acid food and should be pressure canned.

Up to date recipes for canning can be found at the National Center for Food Preservation.

This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

 

Events, classes and other offerings

Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me.

New- Genesee County Master Gardeners Fall into Spring Conference Saturday, October 4, 2014 - 8:00 am - 4:00 pm- Mott Community College Events Center, 1401 E. Court Street, Flint, MI 48503

Fall Into Spring - what a wonderful way to experience tips and ideas to create a beautiful garden for next year. October 4th will be a fun-filled, inspirational day full of ideas and guidelines to aid the gardener from the basic to the most experienced.

The Garden Market will include MG Garden Stones, garden art, herbal products, and gardening supplies. Please bring CASH or CHECKS for your purchases. Speakers and Topics are subject to change. Open to Master Gardener Volunteers and the general public. Master Gardener Volunteers will earn 5 hours of education credit

Registration is $65.00 by September 26th. Registration after September 26th will be $70.00. REGISTER EARLY AND AVOID AN ADDITIONAL $5.00 FEE.  Make checks payable to: MGAGCM

FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Download the registration trifold flyer at this link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByaD3jouRMNReFhKRnpYal9xdVk/edit?usp=sharing

Mail Registration To:

Genesee County Master Gardeners Fall into Spring Conference

PO Box 34

Flushing, MI 48433

Phone: (810) 244-8531

New- Flint River Wild Ones September Event: Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 2:30PM - 4:30PM : For-Mar Nature Preserve & Arboretum, 2142 N. Genesee Road, Burton, MI 48509–1209

Viewing of Urban & Suburban Meadows - Bringing Meadowscaping to Big & Small Spaces Companion DVD is an enticing introduction to meadowscaping. Author and photographer, Catherine Zimmerman, combines her expertise in photography, storytelling, environmental issues, horticulture and organic practices to offer meadowscaping as an alternative to reduce monoculture lawns.

Please RSVP to Melville Kennedy at (810) 275-8822 (leave message) or via email at mkennedy60@charter.net.

New- MSU Extension Workshops for Beekeepers September 12, 2014-1-4 pm Saginaw Valley Research and Extension Center 3775 S Reese Rd Frankenmuth, MI 48734 AND September 19, 2014 1-4 pm, Forgotten Harvest Farm 9153 Major Rd Fenton, MI 48430

Contact: Call or email MSU Extension - Saginaw Office 989.758.2500 or vanpopp8@anr.msu.edu

 

MSU Extension Specialist, Walter Pett, has placed two demonstration honey bee hives at the Forgotten Harvest Farm, near Fenton, and two at the Saginaw Valley Research and Extension Center, near Richville. Along with Extension Educator, Ben Phillips, we would like to invite beekeepers of all ages and experience levels to learn about the various methods for removing honey from honey bee hives, inspecting the colonies for Varroa mites, and wintering strategies. Bring protective equipment for interacting with demonstration hives.

New- Cottage to Commercial: Ingredients for a successful food business- Several locations and dates

Michigan State University Extension and MSU Product Center Educators will conduct four food business planning classes September through November in Berrien, Muskegon, Ingham and Kent County, Michigan locations.

The two-hour session addresses basic food processing, regulatory requirements, business development resources, and related topics. The program targets individuals who are interested in starting a licensed, commercial food business.

The Niles session will be held 3-5 p.m. Tuesday, Sept. 30 at the Niles Entrepreneur & Culinary Incubator (NECI) 219 North 4th Street/2nd Floor, Niles, MI 49120. NECI, a program of Niles Main Street, is designed to help local entrepreneurs start and grow food businesses. There is a $25 fee. Make checks payable to Niles Main Street, and mail to 333 N 2nd Street Suite 303, Niles, MI 49120 by the deadline of Sept.26, 2014. For more information call NECI at 269-687-4332.

The Muskegon session will be held 3:00-5:00 p.m. Wednesday, Oct. 1 at the Muskegon County (South Campus) Building, 133 E. Apple Avenue, Muskegon, Michigan 49442. The fee is $20, and registration is available online  through Sept. 26. For more information, call 269-944-4126.

The Ingham County program will be held 10 a.m. - 12 p.m., Tuesday, October 16, 2014 at the Hilliard Building, Conf. Room B, 121 E. Maple, Mason, MI 48854. The fee is $20, and registration is available online through the Oct. 10. For details, call 517-526-7895.

The Kent County session is scheduled for 10 a.m. - 12 p.m., Tuesday, Nov. 11, 2014 at Kent County MSU Extension 775 Ball Ave. N.E., Grand Rapids, MI 49503. The fee is $20 per person, and registration is available online through Nov. 4, 2014.

The MSU Product Center helps aspiring entrepreneurs and existing businesses to develop and launch new product and service ideas into food, agriculture, bioenergy and natural resources markets. A statewide network of Innovation Counselors is available to counsel individuals interested in starting related business ventures. Last year the MSU Product Center assisted 647 clients with business planning.

Those who are unable to attend one of the offerings are invited to request counseling with a field- based MSU Product Center innovation counselor at www.productcenter.msu.edu , or by phone at 517-432-8750 This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Heritage Harvest Days September 13&14, 2014, Seven Ponds Nature Center, 3854 Crawford Road, Dryden, MI 

It’s back – that fall fun festival at Seven Ponds.  You can see old time farm equipment and watch demonstrations of farm activities, visit lots of nature exhibits, take a horse drawn wagon ride to see the prairie, take a guided nature hike, or eat one of the amazing meals planned.  On the 13^th Country Smokehouse will be offering a pulled pork dinner, and on the 14^th there is a bratwurst dinner.  This year the festival will also have a beer tent.  Folk and blues music will be performed throughout the event.  Many vendors will be selling country and nature themed items.

Admission to the event is $6 for adults, children under 12 free. ( Food and beer extra) For more information call 1-810-796-3200

Workshops for the Garden, Saturday, September 27, Seven Ponds Nature Center, 3854 Crawford Road, Dryden, MI 

We are offering two projects to enhance your garden. Sign up for just one or, bring a lunch and join us for both workshops. Each workshop is limited to 10 participants. Must pre-register by September 23. To register call 1-810-796-3200

Introduction to Rain Barrels: A Make It and Take It Workshop

10:00 am to 12:00 pm

Learn all about rain barrels and their importance to water conservation with Karen Page, owner and Environmental Educator of Back Track to Nature. Not only will you learn but will also have the opportunity to make your own barrel. All supplies are included. Fee: $70.00.

Build a Backyard Hypertufa Water Feature

1:00 to 3:00 pm

Using 10″ leaves as a mold; we will create a lovely container to hold water for toads, insects and more. This small water bath will provide habitat and beauty to your garden. Fee: $15.00 (members $12.00).

Cranbrook & Friends Garden Walk Sat, September 13, 10am-4pm, Cranbook House & Gardens,Bloomfield Hills, MI,

View 4 private home gardens & a demo on dividing perennials. Gift shop sale. Tickets: $15 call  248-645-3149.

Farm & Gardens Fall Fair Sat, September 20, 10am-3pm, MSU Tollgate Educational Center, 28115 Meadowbrook Rd, Novi, MI

Family fun on the farm. Children's crafts, hayrides, entertainment & more. FREE. www.tollgate.msu.edu, 248-347-3860.

       

Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! Workshop Sept. 2, Oct. 1 or Nov. 12. MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office and MSU Extension – Livingston County

Learn how to grow, store and prepare a variety of fresh vegetables by attending one or all of these mid-Michigan workshops.

Posted on August 12, 2014 by Diane Brown, Michigan State University Extension

Home vegetable gardening is once again popular. In addition to vegetables you grow yourself, a bounty of beautiful produce awaits at farmer’s markets and from community supported agriculture (CSAs). But do you know the best varieties to select for your home garden? Do you know how to tell when a vegetable is ready to harvest, or what to look for at the market? How to store them? How to cook them? Get answers to these questions and more during a series of three Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! workshops from Michigan State University Extension designed to help you make the most of fresh garden vegetables. Cost: $20 for one session/$50 for all three.

Sept. 2, 2014-6-8 p.m. Go for the Greens – beet greens, bok choi, cabbage, collards, kale, napa, spinach, swiss chard, turnip greens

Location: MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office,5303 S. Cedar St. Lansing, MI 48911

Oct. 1, 2014, 6-8 p.m.  Root for the Root Vegetables – beets, carrots, kohlrabi, parsnips, potatoes, rutabaga, sweet potatoes, turnips

Location: MSU Extension – Livingston County, 2300 East Grand River,Howell, MI 48843

Nov. 12, 2014, 6-8 p.m.Pumpkins and Their Kin – winter squash and pumpkins Location: MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office, 5303 S. Cedar St., Lansing, MI 48911

Register online for these exciting workshops, and save $10 over individual workshop pricing when you register early for all three events. Contact the Ingham County MSU Extension office at 517-676-7207 for more information.

Annual Herb & Gourd Fest, September 20, 2014, 10 am - 5 pm and September 21, 2014 -11am - 5 pm at Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park, 1000 East Beltline Ave NE, Grand Rapids, MI 4952 (888) 957-1580.

There is not a more enjoyable weekend anywhere that you can attend where you can share your gourd art and meet guests from all over the world in this magnificent setting.  Throughout the two days we will have members demonstrating and showing some of the different techniques that they use on their gourds.  We show examples of painting, pyrography, chip carving, filigree work, coiling, weaving just to name a few, and as in past years, we have vendors selling their creations of bowls, vases, sculptures and gourd jewelry.  $12 adult admission to the park.

Kim’s note:  The Michigan Gourd Festival at Imlay City Fairgrounds will not be held this year.

Advance Garden Design 4-5-6 September 13, 2014 - September 27, 2014 9:00am-1:00pm Oakland County Executive Office Conference Center, 2100 Pontiac Lake Road, 41W, Waterford, MI

This workshop is $125. The fee includes light morning refreshments each day and instructional handouts. There will be a wide variety of design exercises and a recommended garden design book list and web site used in formal and informal gardens. During this workshop, participants will develop skills in the layout of garden beds and small landscape areas using the principles of floral harmony, balance and color. The workshop takes the participants through a successive series of training stages, from simple to advanced garden design planning techniques. This is a comprehensive training class for advanced level gardeners who are interested in learning to expand their garden design skills. It is recommended that you have taken Garden Design 1-2-3 or have other garden design class experience and understand of design concepts of plant layering, spatial balance and axial symmetry. Master Gardeners will receive credit for twelve education hours for attending this 3 day workshop. Contact Linda Smith at 248-858-0887

UP Smart Gardening Conference, Oct. 4  Learn to create edible landscapes, Ramada Inn, 412 W. Washington St., Marquette, MI

Gardening enthusiasts and those interested in learning more about this type of gardening should consider attending this year’s UP Smart Gardening Conference – Edible Landscaping with Smart Gardening on Oct. 4. This is a one-day conference full of great speakers, a garden marketplace, door prizes and lunch. The early bird registration fee is good until Aug. 30. Plan now to attend and avoid a fee increase. Register online for the early bird reduced fee. http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=UPSmartGardeningConference

Cost: Early registration fee of $60.00 per participant by August 29^th Late registration fee of $70.00 from Aug. 30th to Oct. 2^nd . Walk in registration fee of $80.00 (Includes lunch, refreshments, door prizes, handouts)

Kent/MSU Extension Grand Ideas Garden 10^th anniversary celebration Saturday, October 4at 5:00pm 775 Ball Ave NE, Grand Rapids, Michigan 49503

WOW!! Ten Years Old!! Join the merriment and celebration of the tenth anniversary of the MSU Extension Grand Ideas Garden at our annual fund raising auction!  Open to everyone-bring your friends. Auction items include new plants, garden tools and gadgets, beautiful local art, pottery, services and so much more.

This event is sure to please with great food, live music and “competitively fun” bidding. Get involved in the bidding excitement as we raise money to support the ongoing mission of the Grand Ideas Garden—one of Kent County’s hidden treasures!

Newsletter information

If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.

Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com