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Tuesday, August 26, 2014

August 26, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

August 26, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners
Oh yes, its coming.
It’s Tuesday and you know what that means.   Rain is probably on the way this afternoon and evening, and I hope we soon are back to the nice cool weather.  It’s hard to imagine that summer is just about over, technically its over at the fall equinox in September but most of us think of Labor day as being the end and that’s next Monday. 

All the prognostic reports for our fall and winter weather are coming out.  The weather service has that stupid equal odds of colder, wetter or warmer, drier or normal weather forecast.  I don’t know why they bother, I could say that. It pretty much covers your ass.  The Farmer’s Almanac is saying a winter like last winter with a little less snow but since they have not been even close to accurate the last 2 years I don’t put much stock in that forecast either.

It sure feels and looks like it could be an early winter, but that don’t mean it will be a hard one.  Global warming remember?  I am going to make a prediction based on what I hope will happen.  I predict a long mild fall with a slow progression to a bit colder weather in which we will have enough snow to cover the plants, and enough cold to get them into good dormancy and stay there.  But no temperatures below zero, no ice storms, no big snowfalls and lots of sunny days.  Spring will come early but in a slow, progressive manner.  There, if we all dream it, don’t they say it will come true?

Surprise- lilies!

It’s amazing how we gardeners think sometimes.  Last week I was driving down a back road to town and saw a woman hit a fawn.  It was left beside the road.  Sunday I was driving down the same road and slowed down for the vultures feeding on the fawn and I spotted something I consider amazing.  Beside the dead fawn in the weeds along the road was a huge clump of lycoris or surprise lilies.  They were magnificent huge clusters of pink flowers. 

Lycoris is not native to this area,( Asian plant), and it’s not considered reliably hardy even in zone 6.  They are also called Naked Ladies because the flowers pop up on bare stalks after a rain and the leaves may not be present.  These were near an old farm that is now abandoned and those lilies were probably planted many years ago.  They managed to survive one of the worst winters ever on their own.

Ok at once I decided I wanted a few of the bulbs from those plants.  Here’s an already adapted to the climate edition of lycoris right at the edge of the road in front of an abandoned farm.  But when I got out of the car I realized I did not want to wade through stinky rotting fawn to get them. ( And I didn’t have a shovel with me either.)  So I am letting the vultures do their work for a few days-even if the flowers fade the stalks should tell me where the bulbs are- but then I’m going back. I’m gonna get me some.

Check those tomatoes

Late blight has been found in a commercial potato field in Allegan County MichiganLate blight can also affect tomatoes and conditions are excellent for it to come calling.  However home owners may find it hard to tell if they have late blight since other tomato diseases have been terrible this year. 

Tomato with late blight.
One difference in late blight from early blight, septoria and other tomato blights is that late blight will cause rotting of green fruit, which other fungal diseases rarely do.  Late blight kills plants quickly, where other blight diseases usually proceed slowly, and the plant keeps producing new leaves and fruit in most cases.  Late blight also produces dark shrunken spots on tomato stems.

If your tomato plants are still healthy spraying them with a garden fungicide may help.  Check the label to make sure it’s safe for tomatoes.  You may want to spray potatoes if you still have them growing.  If you suspect late blight rip up the whole plant, put it in a black garbage bag tied shut and set it in the sun.  Send it to the landfill or bury the plants deeply far away from the garden as soon as possible.  Make sure to clean up any fallen fruit or leaves too.  Don’t plant any tomatoes or potatoes in the spot next year.

I used to tell people to take a sample to MSU Extension to have it id’d but unless you live close enough to the MSU plant diagnostic lab on the Campus in East Lansing to take it there yourself and are willing to pay to have it tested you may as well forget that idea. Most county Extension offices don’t want to bother with homeowner samples anymore and to get a sample to the lab in good condition through the mail is hard.  If your county still has a horticulture agent you can call and attempt to get help with a diagnosis but don’t hold your breath.

Making cut flowers last longer

You wouldn’t think of Iran of all places, would be researching how to make cut flowers last longer- but there it is- the Department of Horticulture at Ferdowsi University of Mashhad, Iran, has just published their research on using silver nano-particles to make cut flowers last twice as long.  Silver has antibiotic properties that keep bacteria from growing on cut flower stems.

At this point I don’t know where the average person can get silver nano-particles and seeing how much damage we are finding that nano-particles do- I wonder if Iran is pursuing some secret agenda with this research.  They’ll get everyone to drop little packets of silver nanoparticles into vases of flowers in their homes and then send silver seeking missiles to annihilate the house.   Just kidding but it does seem like this technology isn’t needed.  Flowers aren’t meant to last forever and florists might be cutting their own throats if consumers needed to buy flowers less often.

So what can prolong the life of cut flowers outside of silver?  First start with a very clean vase, scrubbed with hot water and soap.  Bacteria are the biggest cause of early flower wilt and that awful smelling vase water.  Don’t inoculate the water of a new batch of flowers by using a dirty vase.  Don’t combine some older flowers that have been in a vase with new ones because you will bring bacteria clinging to the stems.

Fill vases with cold, clean water.  If you have “city water” that’s probably ok to use.  If you use a water softener at home you should use bottled water.  Well water that isn’t softened may be ok- but if it has its own smell or looks bad use bottled water.  If you use well water put a drop or two of unscented chlorine bleach in the vase.

Another choice for filling vases is one part 7-Up or another lemon-lime soda to 3 parts water.  Use regular, not diet soda.  The citric acid in the soda acidifies the water and inhibits bacterial growth.  The sugar in the soda feeds the flowers just a bit.  Research has shown that this soda treatment does extend the vase life of flowers.

If you bought the flowers and you got a little package of “flower food” use it.  It’s a combination of a number of things that lower the bacteria count and feed flowers and really does extend vase life.

Every few days dump the water in the vase and refill with clean water or water- pop solution.  Keep the vase full to the top with water.

Always remove all foliage that will be beneath the water in a vase.  If you bought the flowers make a fresh cut on each stem before putting them in the vase.  Make stem cuts on a slant instead of straight across to expose more xylem tubes which take up water.  Some people suggest cutting flower stems under water so no air bubbles get in the stem but this hasn’t be shown to be very effective in most research.

Things not to add to flower vases are aspirin tablets or vitamin tablets, (didn’t work in research tests), pennies, (the copper isn’t water soluble in our pennies) plain sugar (increases bacteria), vinegar, ( no results in research)or alcohol like vodka or gin, which don’t have any benefit according to research.
Vase of York and Lancaster dahlias

Putting your flower arrangement in the refrigerator at night will prolong its life.  Misting flowers once a day seems to help.  Keep arrangements out of the sun and away from heat sources.  Remove wilted or dead flowers or foliage frequently.

Remember that some flowers just don’t last long in the vase.  An open daylily will be gone the next day regardless of what you do, (but daylily buds on a stem may continue to open).  Some flowers require special treatment to remain pretty for even a few days.  Long lasting cut flowers are roses, Asiatic and oriental lilies, glads, dahlias, Peruvian lilies, daisies, zinnias, mums, carnations, sunflowers, liatris, coreopsis, lavender, salvias, yarrow, phlox, asters, Echinacea, iris, bellflowers, daffodils, strawflowers, coral bells, obedient plant, gaillardia, and veronica.

What are you putting into the water outside a vase?

In an earlier newsletter I talked about nanoparticles and how harmful they are turning out to be for the environment.  I just read another reason to get rid of them.  When you slather on sunblock creams and then decide to go for a swim the sunblock, which is now usually made with nanoparticles of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide or both washes off into the water.  There in the sunlight the nano-particles are transformed into deadly toxins like hydrogen peroxide that kill water organisms like plankton.  Researchers say this is impacting ocean ecology.

(Interesting side note:  The researchers went to a beach in the Mediterranean, Majorca Island's Palmira beach, where some 10 million people are said to sunbathe and swim each year.  What a clever way to combine research and pleasure.)

Another research project found that the common drug ibuprofen is polluting surface waters such as rivers and killing fish.  The drug gets into the water when humans use the drug, then excrete it in urine.  Sewage treatment plants can’t remove all of it and it ends up in the surface water.  Ibuprofen, found in drugs like Advil and Motrin, is one of the most used chemicals in the world.  Even a small amount of it in water adversely affects fish reproductive systems and may be a significant cause of fish decline.

The current research was done in the UK by York's Environment Department, the Centre for Ecology and Hydrology, F. Hoffmann-La Roche Ltd (Switzerland) and the Food and Environment Research Agency and reported in the journal Environment International.  This effect has also been noted in several US research studies.

Pomegranate drug may help Alzheimer’s patients  

A new drug compound derived from the outer skin of pomegranates may slow the progression of Alzheimer’s disease.  It’s called punicalagin and it soothes neuro-inflammation of the brain cells.  Dr Olumayokun Olajide, of the University of Huddersfield, and researchers at University of Freiburg, Germany have studied the compound for 2 years and are now determining what dosage for humans would be the most effective at slowing the progression of Alzheimer’s disease.

The researchers say that some of this compound is found in 100% pomegranate juice, although in not as concentrated a form as the research drug.  They suggest that drinking the juice may be helpful not only in Alzheimer patients but also for those with Rheumatoid arthritis, Parkinson’s disease, and other diseases caused by nerve inflammation until the drug becomes available.

Glutin free ingredient may cause serious allergies

Doctors and researchers tell us that only about 1% of the people who think they are gluten intolerant actually are.  But the glutin free diet fad has hit hard and many people are buying up expensive foods that are glutin free.  In response to the fad many food processors are searching for wheat alternatives and some are now using a legume called lupin.  The U.S. Food and Drug Administration has issued a warning that lupin may cause serious allergic reactions in some people.

Lupin is a yellow bean that is related to peanuts.  It’s been used in food for a while in Europe, but is just starting to show up in glutin free food in the U.S.  If you are allergic to peanuts or soybeans you will probably be allergic to lupin and should avoid products with it.  Lupin is also causing allergies in some people who are not allergic to soybeans or peanuts.  If you are following a glutin free diet check those labels and use caution.

13 year old girl finds a fungus on trees that can kill people

Doctors have been warning people with immune suppressant diseases such as aids that the West Coast states are not a good place to live or visit.  That’s because a dangerous fungal disease Cryptococcus, is more common on the Pacific coast and in immune compromised people it is often deadly.  It is estimated that one third of U.S. aids deaths are caused by Cryptococcus.  But until recently no one knew where the fungus came from or how people contacted it.

A 13 year old girl doing a science project helped crack the mystery.  (True, her father was a UCLA infectious disease specialist and he asked other researchers to suggest a good project for his daughter.)  The girl took swab samples from trees and soil in the area and grew various fungi from them.  She isolated Cryptococcus fungi samples and sent them to Duke University to have the DNA of the fungus compared to samples of the fungus that had killed human patients.

Duke University specialists found that some of the samples the girl collected were an exact match to the strain of the deadly Cryptococcus samples they had.  These samples came from 3 tree species, Canary Island pine, Pohutukawa and American sweetgum which grow in the Los Angeles area and along the Pacific coast.  Since the fungi reproduce on the trees and send spores into the air, they serve as a source for the deadly Cryptococcus fungi to infect humans.   People with normal immune systems rarely fall ill from the fungus but its life threatening to immune suppressed people.  Researchers have an answer as to where it comes from and they can now work on how to control it.

This Weeks weed- Japanese Knotweed
Japanese Knotweed, Polygonum cuspidatum, is also known as Japanese Bamboo when it is being called polite names.  However, this exotic escapee from gardens is often called names that are not so polite because of its aggressive spreading behavior and the difficulty in controlling it.   In just a few years Japanese Knotweed can claim large areas of land, choking out all other vegetation.

Japanese Knotweed looks like bamboo because of its jointed, hollow stems but the leaves are large and round or heart shaped.   The shoots that come up in spring are reddish in color and some red may persist in young leaf veins and stems.  The young shoots of the plant are edible.  Plants grow quickly and in one year stems may become 8’ tall.

The plants produce little spikes of tiny, white flowers in late summer from the leaf joints near the top of the plant.  The flowers are pleasingly fragrant.  Although each flower can make a single triangular seed the plant seldom produces seedlings in Michigan.

Japanese Knotweed is a perennial that dies back to the rhizomatous roots each winter.   It spreads aggressively through these roots and soon makes huge thickets of stems.  The root rhizomes are thick and sturdy and difficult to dig from the ground.  The plant will grow in sun or shade.  It loves rich, damp soil but will tolerate many other soil conditions. 

Continuous mowing and cutting and the application of strong herbicides are needed to control this plant once it gets a foothold

Have a great Labor Day weekend
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero


More Information

Be careful where you spray that stuff!
Using certain herbicides too generously can kill mature, healthy trees.
Posted on July 28, 2014 by Georgia Peterson, Michigan State University Extension

This summer’s ample rains have encouraged lush growth for most plants in Michigan. This includes some that we find troublesome, like poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans). Poison ivy is a native vine that, in the right conditions, can grow to shrub-like size and or spread across the ground, creating an almost continuous layer of ankle-high leaves. Because poison ivy is a vine, however, it will also grow right up the trunk of trees. Mature vines are woody and will have fine hairs that anchor the vine to the bark of the tree. Vines can eventually dominate standing trees.

Poison ivy can be found anywhere in the state. Most of us have been taught the old rhyme “leaves of three, let it be” for identification, but many other harmless plants and small trees also fit that description. For example, small boxelder trees (Acer negundo) or raspberries (Rubus species) also can also be three-leaved, but other additional features distinguish themselves from the ivy.

Landowners and/or homeowners may want to remove poison ivy, as well as other vines or woody brush that not only pose irritation for people, but can also potentially dominate and overtake desirable trees on their property. There are numerous brand names for herbicides that can control woody brush species, including poison ivy. All herbicides have a label that will list the name and concentration of the active ingredient, e.g., the compound that is toxic to the weed you wish to control. Check the label to be sure that it specifically lists poison ivy as a target. The label will provide the proper rate that needs to be applied to ensure the product is effective, along with other details on proper application procedure.

Several common herbicides that are typically used on poison ivy are glyphosate, amitrole, 2,4.D and triclopyr. Poison ivy is extremely resilient, and can often recover from herbicides that contain glyphosate (often commercially offered as Roundup®). Triclopyr products (often found in garden centers under commercial names like Brush-BGon ®) are generally much more effective on poison ivy, but all of these are non-selective on broadleaf plants. In other words, they can kill other plants that may have inadvertently come in contact with the herbicide. Care must be taken to target only the nuisance plants and to avoid allowing sprays to drift to desirable plants.

Keep in mind that mature trees can potentially be harmed by triclopyr. Since poison ivy will grow up tree trunks, you may be tempted to spray the leaves and vine on the trunk. This is rarely a good idea. In some cases, the herbicide may move through the outer bark and into the tissue the trees needs to transport water or nutrients. This can severely damage or even kill healthy, mature trees. Wear protective clothing and clip the vine at the base, then “paint” the herbicide directly onto the cut vine. This will allow the chemical to be transported into the roots of the poison ivy plant without affecting other plants.

This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me.

Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! Workshop Sept. 2, Oct. 1 or Nov. 12. MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office and MSU Extension – Livingston County

Learn how to grow, store and prepare a variety of fresh vegetables by attending one or all of these mid-Michigan workshops.
Posted on August 12, 2014 by Diane Brown, Michigan State University Extension

Home vegetable gardening is once again popular. In addition to vegetables you grow yourself, a bounty of beautiful produce awaits at farmer’s markets and from community supported agriculture (CSAs). But do you know the best varieties to select for your home garden? Do you know how to tell when a vegetable is ready to harvest, or what to look for at the market? How to store them? How to cook them? Get answers to these questions and more during a series of three Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! workshops from Michigan State University Extension designed to help you make the most of fresh garden vegetables. Cost: $20 for one session/$50 for all three.

Sept. 2, 2014-6-8 p.m. Go for the Greens – beet greens, bok choi, cabbage, collards, kale, napa, spinach, swiss chard, turnip greens
Location: MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office,5303 S. Cedar St. Lansing, MI 48911
Oct. 1, 2014, 6-8 p.m.  Root for the Root Vegetables – beets, carrots, kohlrabi, parsnips, potatoes, rutabaga, sweet potatoes, turnips
Location: MSU Extension – Livingston County, 2300 East Grand River,Howell, MI 48843
Nov. 12, 2014, 6-8 p.m.Pumpkins and Their Kin – winter squash and pumpkins Location: MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office, 5303 S. Cedar St., Lansing, MI 48911
Register online for these exciting workshops, and save $10 over individual workshop pricing when you register early for all three events. Contact the Ingham County MSU Extension office at 517-676-7207 for more information.

Annual Herb & Gourd Fest, September 20, 2014, 10 am - 5 pm and September 21, 2014 -11am - 5 pm at Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park, 1000 East Beltline Ave NE, Grand Rapids, MI 4952 (888) 957-1580.
There is not a more enjoyable weekend anywhere that you can attend where you can share your gourd art and meet guests from all over the world in this magnificent setting.  Throughout the two days we will have members demonstrating and showing some of the different techniques that they use on their gourds.  We show examples of painting, pyrography, chip carving, filigree work, coiling, weaving just to name a few, and as in past years, we have vendors selling their creations of bowls, vases, sculptures and gourd jewelry.  $12 adult admission to the park.
Kim’s note:  The Michigan Gourd Festival at Imlay City Fairgrounds will not be held this year.

Prairie Fire Tales and Walk Sunday, August 31, 2:00 pm at Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Road, Dryden, MI 
Fires were commonplace on the prairies. Come hear some tales and learn how fires helped and hindered. 810-796-3200. Unless otherwise noted, the fee for programs is the regular admission, $3.00 adults, members and children 12 and under free. For the most-up-to date information, visit our website at www.sevenponds.org.

Advance Garden Design 4-5-6 September 13, 2014 - September 27, 2014 9:00am-1:00pm Oakland County Executive Office Conference Center, 2100 Pontiac Lake Road, 41W, Waterford, MI

This workshop is $125. The fee includes light morning refreshments each day and instructional handouts. There will be a wide variety of design exercises and a recommended garden design book list and web site used in formal and informal gardens. During this workshop, participants will develop skills in the layout of garden beds and small landscape areas using the principles of floral harmony, balance and color. The workshop takes the participants through a successive series of training stages, from simple to advanced garden design planning techniques. This is a comprehensive training class for advanced level gardeners who are interested in learning to expand their garden design skills. It is recommended that you have taken Garden Design 1-2-3 or have other garden design class experience and understand of design concepts of plant layering, spatial balance and axial symmetry. Master Gardeners will receive credit for twelve education hours for attending this 3 day workshop. Contact Linda Smith at 248-858-0887

UP Smart Gardening Conference, Oct. 4  Learn to create edible landscapes, Ramada Inn, 412 W. Washington St., Marquette, MI

Gardening enthusiasts and those interested in learning more about this type of gardening should consider attending this year’s UP Smart Gardening Conference – Edible Landscaping with Smart Gardening on Oct. 4. This is a one-day conference full of great speakers, a garden marketplace, door prizes and lunch. The early bird registration fee is good until Aug. 30. Plan now to attend and avoid a fee increase. Register online for the early bird reduced fee. http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=UPSmartGardeningConference

Cost: Early registration fee of $60.00 per participant by August 29th Late registration fee of $70.00 from Aug. 30th to Oct. 2nd . Walk in registration fee of $80.00 (Includes lunch, refreshments, door prizes, handouts)

Kent/MSU Extension Grand Ideas Garden 10th anniversary celebration Saturday, October 4at 5:00pm 775 Ball Ave NE, Grand Rapids, Michigan 49503

WOW!! Ten Years Old!! Join the merriment and celebration of the tenth anniversary of the MSU Extension Grand Ideas Garden at our annual fund raising auction!  Open to everyone-bring your friends. Auction items include new plants, garden tools and gadgets, beautiful local art, pottery, services and so much more.

This event is sure to please with great food, live music and “competitively fun” bidding. Get involved in the bidding excitement as we raise money to support the ongoing mission of the Grand Ideas Garden—one of Kent County’s hidden treasures!



Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com


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