Gardening Granny's Gardening Pages: August 2014

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners

Oh yes, its coming.

It’s Tuesday and you know what that means. Rain is probably on the way this afternoon and evening, and I hope we soon are back to the nice cool weather. It’s hard to imagine that summer is just about over, technically its over at the fall equinox in September but most of us think of Labor day as being the end and that’s next Monday.

All the prognostic reports for our fall and winter weather are coming out. The weather service has that stupid equal odds of colder, wetter or warmer, drier or normal weather forecast. I don’t know why they bother, I could say that. It pretty much covers your ass. The Farmer’s Almanac is saying a winter like last winter with a little less snow but since they have not been even close to accurate the last 2 years I don’t put much stock in that forecast either.

It sure feels and looks like it could be an early winter, but that don’t mean it will be a hard one. Global warming remember? I am going to make a prediction based on what I hope will happen. I predict a long mild fall with a slow progression to a bit colder weather in which we will have enough snow to cover the plants, and enough cold to get them into good dormancy and stay there. But no temperatures below zero, no ice storms, no big snowfalls and lots of sunny days. Spring will come early but in a slow, progressive manner. There, if we all dream it, don’t they say it will come true?

Surprise- lilies!

It’s amazing how we gardeners think sometimes. Last week I was driving down a back road to town and saw a woman hit a fawn. It was left beside the road. Sunday I was driving down the same road and slowed down for the vultures feeding on the fawn and I spotted something I consider amazing. Beside the dead fawn in the weeds along the road was a huge clump of lycoris or surprise lilies. They were magnificent huge clusters of pink flowers.

Lycoris is not native to this area,( Asian plant), and it’s not considered reliably hardy even in zone 6. They are also called Naked Ladies because the flowers pop up on bare stalks after a rain and the leaves may not be present. These were near an old farm that is now abandoned and those lilies were probably planted many years ago. They managed to survive one of the worst winters ever on their own.

Ok at once I decided I wanted a few of the bulbs from those plants. Here’s an already adapted to the climate edition of lycoris right at the edge of the road in front of an abandoned farm. But when I got out of the car I realized I did not want to wade through stinky rotting fawn to get them. ( And I didn’t have a shovel with me either.) So I am letting the vultures do their work for a few days-even if the flowers fade the stalks should tell me where the bulbs are- but then I’m going back. I’m gonna get me some.

Check those tomatoes

Late blight has been found in a commercial potato field in Allegan County Michigan. Late blight can also affect tomatoes and conditions are excellent for it to come calling. However home owners may find it hard to tell if they have late blight since other tomato diseases have been terrible this year.

Tomato with late blight.

One difference in late blight from early blight, septoria and other tomato blights is that late blight will cause rotting of green fruit, which other fungal diseases rarely do. Late blight kills plants quickly, where other blight diseases usually proceed slowly, and the plant keeps producing new leaves and fruit in most cases. Late blight also produces dark shrunken spots on tomato stems.

If your tomato plants are still healthy spraying them with a garden fungicide may help. Check the label to make sure it’s safe for tomatoes. You may want to spray potatoes if you still have them growing. If you suspect late blight rip up the whole plant, put it in a black garbage bag tied shut and set it in the sun. Send it to the landfill or bury the plants deeply far away from the garden as soon as possible. Make sure to clean up any fallen fruit or leaves too. Don’t plant any tomatoes or potatoes in the spot next year.

I used to tell people to take a sample to MSU Extension to have it id’d but unless you live close enough to the MSU plant diagnostic lab on the Campus in East Lansing to take it there yourself and are willing to pay to have it tested you may as well forget that idea. Most county Extension offices don’t want to bother with homeowner samples anymore and to get a sample to the lab in good condition through the mail is hard. If your county still has a horticulture agent you can call and attempt to get help with a diagnosis but don’t hold your breath.

Making cut flowers last longer

You wouldn’t think of Iran of all places, would be researching how to make cut flowers last longer- but there it is- the Department of Horticulture at Ferdowsi University of Mashhad, Iran, has just published their research on using silver nano-particles to make cut flowers last twice as long. Silver has antibiotic properties that keep bacteria from growing on cut flower stems.

At this point I don’t know where the average person can get silver nano-particles and seeing how much damage we are finding that nano-particles do- I wonder if Iran is pursuing some secret agenda with this research. They’ll get everyone to drop little packets of silver nanoparticles into vases of flowers in their homes and then send silver seeking missiles to annihilate the house. Just kidding but it does seem like this technology isn’t needed. Flowers aren’t meant to last forever and florists might be cutting their own throats if consumers needed to buy flowers less often.

So what can prolong the life of cut flowers outside of silver? First start with a very clean vase, scrubbed with hot water and soap. Bacteria are the biggest cause of early flower wilt and that awful smelling vase water. Don’t inoculate the water of a new batch of flowers by using a dirty vase. Don’t combine some older flowers that have been in a vase with new ones because you will bring bacteria clinging to the stems.

Fill vases with cold, clean water. If you have “city water” that’s probably ok to use. If you use a water softener at home you should use bottled water. Well water that isn’t softened may be ok- but if it has its own smell or looks bad use bottled water. If you use well water put a drop or two of unscented chlorine bleach in the vase.

Another choice for filling vases is one part 7-Up or another lemon-lime soda to 3 parts water. Use regular, not diet soda. The citric acid in the soda acidifies the water and inhibits bacterial growth. The sugar in the soda feeds the flowers just a bit. Research has shown that this soda treatment does extend the vase life of flowers.

If you bought the flowers and you got a little package of “flower food” use it. It’s a combination of a number of things that lower the bacteria count and feed flowers and really does extend vase life.

Every few days dump the water in the vase and refill with clean water or water- pop solution. Keep the vase full to the top with water.

Always remove all foliage that will be beneath the water in a vase. If you bought the flowers make a fresh cut on each stem before putting them in the vase. Make stem cuts on a slant instead of straight across to expose more xylem tubes which take up water. Some people suggest cutting flower stems under water so no air bubbles get in the stem but this hasn’t be shown to be very effective in most research.

Things not to add to flower vases are aspirin tablets or vitamin tablets, (didn’t work in research tests), pennies, (the copper isn’t water soluble in our pennies) plain sugar (increases bacteria), vinegar, ( no results in research)or alcohol like vodka or gin, which don’t have any benefit according to research.

Vase of York and Lancaster dahlias

Putting your flower arrangement in the refrigerator at night will prolong its life. Misting flowers once a day seems to help. Keep arrangements out of the sun and away from heat sources. Remove wilted or dead flowers or foliage frequently.

Remember that some flowers just don’t last long in the vase. An open daylily will be gone the next day regardless of what you do, (but daylily buds on a stem may continue to open). Some flowers require special treatment to remain pretty for even a few days. Long lasting cut flowers are roses, Asiatic and oriental lilies, glads, dahlias, Peruvian lilies, daisies, zinnias, mums, carnations, sunflowers, liatris, coreopsis, lavender, salvias, yarrow, phlox, asters, Echinacea, iris, bellflowers, daffodils, strawflowers, coral bells, obedient plant, gaillardia, and veronica.

What are you putting into the water outside a vase?

In an earlier newsletter I talked about nanoparticles and how harmful they are turning out to be for the environment. I just read another reason to get rid of them. When you slather on sunblock creams and then decide to go for a swim the sunblock, which is now usually made with nanoparticles of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide or both washes off into the water. There in the sunlight the nano-particles are transformed into deadly toxins like hydrogen peroxide that kill water organisms like plankton. Researchers say this is impacting ocean ecology.

(Interesting side note: The researchers went to a beach in the Mediterranean, Majorca Island's Palmira beach, where some 10 million people are said to sunbathe and swim each year. What a clever way to combine research and pleasure.)

Another research project found that the common drug ibuprofen is polluting surface waters such as rivers and killing fish. The drug gets into the water when humans use the drug, then excrete it in urine. Sewage treatment plants can’t remove all of it and it ends up in the surface water. Ibuprofen, found in drugs like Advil and Motrin, is one of the most used chemicals in the world. Even a small amount of it in water adversely affects fish reproductive systems and may be a significant cause of fish decline.

The current research was done in the UK by York's Environment Department, the Centre for Ecology and Hydrology, F. Hoffmann-La Roche Ltd (Switzerland) and the Food and Environment Research Agency and reported in the journal Environment International. This effect has also been noted in several US research studies.

Pomegranate drug may help Alzheimer’s patients

A new drug compound derived from the outer skin of pomegranates may slow the progression of Alzheimer’s disease. It’s called punicalagin and it soothes neuro-inflammation of the brain cells. Dr Olumayokun Olajide, of the University of Huddersfield, and researchers at University of Freiburg, Germany have studied the compound for 2 years and are now determining what dosage for humans would be the most effective at slowing the progression of Alzheimer’s disease.

The researchers say that some of this compound is found in 100% pomegranate juice, although in not as concentrated a form as the research drug. They suggest that drinking the juice may be helpful not only in Alzheimer patients but also for those with Rheumatoid arthritis, Parkinson’s disease, and other diseases caused by nerve inflammation until the drug becomes available.

Glutin free ingredient may cause serious allergies

Doctors and researchers tell us that only about 1% of the people who think they are gluten intolerant actually are. But the glutin free diet fad has hit hard and many people are buying up expensive foods that are glutin free. In response to the fad many food processors are searching for wheat alternatives and some are now using a legume called lupin. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration has issued a warning that lupin may cause serious allergic reactions in some people.

Lupin is a yellow bean that is related to peanuts. It’s been used in food for a while in Europe, but is just starting to show up in glutin free food in the U.S. If you are allergic to peanuts or soybeans you will probably be allergic to lupin and should avoid products with it. Lupin is also causing allergies in some people who are not allergic to soybeans or peanuts. If you are following a glutin free diet check those labels and use caution.

13 year old girl finds a fungus on trees that can kill people

Doctors have been warning people with immune suppressant diseases such as aids that the West Coast states are not a good place to live or visit. That’s because a dangerous fungal disease Cryptococcus, is more common on the Pacific coast and in immune compromised people it is often deadly. It is estimated that one third of U.S. aids deaths are caused by Cryptococcus. But until recently no one knew where the fungus came from or how people contacted it.

A 13 year old girl doing a science project helped crack the mystery. (True, her father was a UCLA infectious disease specialist and he asked other researchers to suggest a good project for his daughter.) The girl took swab samples from trees and soil in the area and grew various fungi from them. She isolated Cryptococcus fungi samples and sent them to Duke University to have the DNA of the fungus compared to samples of the fungus that had killed human patients.

Duke University specialists found that some of the samples the girl collected were an exact match to the strain of the deadly Cryptococcus samples they had. These samples came from 3 tree species, Canary Island pine, Pohutukawa and American sweetgum which grow in the Los Angeles area and along the Pacific coast. Since the fungi reproduce on the trees and send spores into the air, they serve as a source for the deadly Cryptococcus fungi to infect humans. People with normal immune systems rarely fall ill from the fungus but its life threatening to immune suppressed people. Researchers have an answer as to where it comes from and they can now work on how to control it.

This Weeks weed- Japanese Knotweed

Japanese Knotweed, Polygonum cuspidatum, is also known as Japanese Bamboo when it is being called polite names. However, this exotic escapee from gardens is often called names that are not so polite because of its aggressive spreading behavior and the difficulty in controlling it. In just a few years Japanese Knotweed can claim large areas of land, choking out all other vegetation.

Japanese Knotweed looks like bamboo because of its jointed, hollow stems but the leaves are large and round or heart shaped. The shoots that come up in spring are reddish in color and some red may persist in young leaf veins and stems. The young shoots of the plant are edible. Plants grow quickly and in one year stems may become 8’ tall.

The plants produce little spikes of tiny, white flowers in late summer from the leaf joints near the top of the plant. The flowers are pleasingly fragrant. Although each flower can make a single triangular seed the plant seldom produces seedlings in Michigan.

Japanese Knotweed is a perennial that dies back to the rhizomatous roots each winter. It spreads aggressively through these roots and soon makes huge thickets of stems. The root rhizomes are thick and sturdy and difficult to dig from the ground. The plant will grow in sun or shade. It loves rich, damp soil but will tolerate many other soil conditions.

Continuous mowing and cutting and the application of strong herbicides are needed to control this plant once it gets a foothold

Have a great Labor Day weekend

Kim Willis

“He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information

Be careful where you spray that stuff!

Using certain herbicides too generously can kill mature, healthy trees.

Posted on July 28, 2014 by Georgia Peterson, Michigan State University Extension

This summer’s ample rains have encouraged lush growth for most plants in Michigan. This includes some that we find troublesome, like poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans). Poison ivy is a native vine that, in the right conditions, can grow to shrub-like size and or spread across the ground, creating an almost continuous layer of ankle-high leaves. Because poison ivy is a vine, however, it will also grow right up the trunk of trees. Mature vines are woody and will have fine hairs that anchor the vine to the bark of the tree. Vines can eventually dominate standing trees.

Poison ivy can be found anywhere in the state. Most of us have been taught the old rhyme “leaves of three, let it be” for identification, but many other harmless plants and small trees also fit that description. For example, small boxelder trees (Acer negundo) or raspberries (Rubus species) also can also be three-leaved, but other additional features distinguish themselves from the ivy.

Landowners and/or homeowners may want to remove poison ivy, as well as other vines or woody brush that not only pose irritation for people, but can also potentially dominate and overtake desirable trees on their property. There are numerous brand names for herbicides that can control woody brush species, including poison ivy. All herbicides have a label that will list the name and concentration of the active ingredient, e.g., the compound that is toxic to the weed you wish to control. Check the label to be sure that it specifically lists poison ivy as a target. The label will provide the proper rate that needs to be applied to ensure the product is effective, along with other details on proper application procedure.

Several common herbicides that are typically used on poison ivy are glyphosate, amitrole, 2,4.D and triclopyr. Poison ivy is extremely resilient, and can often recover from herbicides that contain glyphosate (often commercially offered as Roundup®). Triclopyr products (often found in garden centers under commercial names like Brush-BGon ®) are generally much more effective on poison ivy, but all of these are non-selective on broadleaf plants. In other words, they can kill other plants that may have inadvertently come in contact with the herbicide. Care must be taken to target only the nuisance plants and to avoid allowing sprays to drift to desirable plants.

Keep in mind that mature trees can potentially be harmed by triclopyr. Since poison ivy will grow up tree trunks, you may be tempted to spray the leaves and vine on the trunk. This is rarely a good idea. In some cases, the herbicide may move through the outer bark and into the tissue the trees needs to transport water or nutrients. This can severely damage or even kill healthy, mature trees. Wear protective clothing and clip the vine at the base, then “paint” the herbicide directly onto the cut vine. This will allow the chemical to be transported into the roots of the poison ivy plant without affecting other plants.

This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Events, classes and other offerings

Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners. These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.

Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me.

Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! Workshop Sept. 2, Oct. 1 or Nov. 12. MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office and MSU Extension – Livingston County

Learn how to grow, store and prepare a variety of fresh vegetables by attending one or all of these mid-Michigan workshops.

Posted on August 12, 2014 by Diane Brown, Michigan State University Extension

Home vegetable gardening is once again popular. In addition to vegetables you grow yourself, a bounty of beautiful produce awaits at farmer’s markets and from community supported agriculture (CSAs). But do you know the best varieties to select for your home garden? Do you know how to tell when a vegetable is ready to harvest, or what to look for at the market? How to store them? How to cook them? Get answers to these questions and more during a series of three Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! workshops from Michigan State University Extension designed to help you make the most of fresh garden vegetables. Cost: $20 for one session/$50 for all three.

Sept. 2, 2014-6-8 p.m. Go for the Greens – beet greens, bok choi, cabbage, collards, kale, napa, spinach, swiss chard, turnip greens

Location: MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office,5303 S. Cedar St. Lansing, MI 48911

Oct. 1, 2014, 6-8 p.m. Root for the Root Vegetables – beets, carrots, kohlrabi, parsnips, potatoes, rutabaga, sweet potatoes, turnips

Location: MSU Extension – Livingston County, 2300 East Grand River,Howell, MI 48843

Nov. 12, 2014, 6-8 p.m.Pumpkins and Their Kin – winter squash and pumpkins Location: MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office, 5303 S. Cedar St., Lansing, MI 48911

Register online for these exciting workshops, and save $10 over individual workshop pricing when you register early for all three events. Contact the Ingham County MSU Extension office at 517-676-7207 for more information.

Annual Herb & Gourd Fest, September 20, 2014, 10 am - 5 pm and September 21, 2014 -11am - 5 pm at Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park, 1000 East Beltline Ave NE, Grand Rapids, MI 4952 (888) 957-1580.

There is not a more enjoyable weekend anywhere that you can attend where you can share your gourd art and meet guests from all over the world in this magnificent setting. Throughout the two days we will have members demonstrating and showing some of the different techniques that they use on their gourds. We show examples of painting, pyrography, chip carving, filigree work, coiling, weaving just to name a few, and as in past years, we have vendors selling their creations of bowls, vases, sculptures and gourd jewelry. $12 adult admission to the park.

Kim’s note: The Michigan Gourd Festival at Imlay City Fairgrounds will not be held this year.

Prairie Fire Tales and Walk Sunday, August 31, 2:00 pm at Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Road, Dryden, MI

Fires were commonplace on the prairies. Come hear some tales and learn how fires helped and hindered. 810-796-3200. Unless otherwise noted, the fee for programs is the regular admission, $3.00 adults, members and children 12 and under free. For the most-up-to date information, visit our website at www.sevenponds.org.

Advance Garden Design 4-5-6 September 13, 2014 - September 27, 2014 9:00am-1:00pm Oakland County Executive Office Conference Center, 2100 Pontiac Lake Road, 41W, Waterford, MI

This workshop is $125. The fee includes light morning refreshments each day and instructional handouts. There will be a wide variety of design exercises and a recommended garden design book list and web site used in formal and informal gardens. During this workshop, participants will develop skills in the layout of garden beds and small landscape areas using the principles of floral harmony, balance and color. The workshop takes the participants through a successive series of training stages, from simple to advanced garden design planning techniques. This is a comprehensive training class for advanced level gardeners who are interested in learning to expand their garden design skills. It is recommended that you have taken Garden Design 1-2-3 or have other garden design class experience and understand of design concepts of plant layering, spatial balance and axial symmetry. Master Gardeners will receive credit for twelve education hours for attending this 3 day workshop. Contact Linda Smith at 248-858-0887

UP Smart Gardening Conference, Oct. 4 Learn to create edible landscapes, Ramada Inn, 412 W. Washington St., Marquette, MI

Gardening enthusiasts and those interested in learning more about this type of gardening should consider attending this year’s UP Smart Gardening Conference – Edible Landscaping with Smart Gardening on Oct. 4. This is a one-day conference full of great speakers, a garden marketplace, door prizes and lunch. The early bird registration fee is good until Aug. 30. Plan now to attend and avoid a fee increase. Register online for the early bird reduced fee. http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=UPSmartGardeningConference

Cost: Early registration fee of $60.00 per participant by August 29^th Late registration fee of $70.00 from Aug. 30th to Oct. 2^nd . Walk in registration fee of $80.00 (Includes lunch, refreshments, door prizes, handouts)

Kent/MSU Extension Grand Ideas Garden 10^th anniversary celebration Saturday, October 4at 5:00pm 775 Ball Ave NE, Grand Rapids, Michigan 49503

WOW!! Ten Years Old!! Join the merriment and celebration of the tenth anniversary of the MSU Extension Grand Ideas Garden at our annual fund raising auction! Open to everyone-bring your friends. Auction items include new plants, garden tools and gadgets, beautiful local art, pottery, services and so much more.

This event is sure to please with great food, live music and “competitively fun” bidding. Get involved in the bidding excitement as we raise money to support the ongoing mission of the Grand Ideas Garden—one of Kent County’s hidden treasures!

Newsletter information

If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.

Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me. KimWillis151@gmail.com

Tuesday, August 19, 2014

August 19, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

http://www.examiner.com/gardening-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

http://www.examiner.com/country-living-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

Hi Gardeners

Tuesday’s seem to be the day for rain in this area- although it looks like there may be plenty of other rainy days this week. I have enjoyed this cooler summer weather although people like my mother are already worrying about the winter being earlier and hard like last year. The Farmer’s Almanac was sure off in their weather predictions this year.

Farmers are also a bit concerned for the corn harvest. Cool, wet weather delayed planting this spring and cooler weather has resulted in slower growth and maturity this summer. The crop looks pretty good at this point, if it can get to mature harvest stage before winter sets in.

The jewel weed and anise hyssop are attracting bees like crazy right now. Hummingbirds also visit the jewelweed although I can’t see how they get much from the tiny flowers. But it has been a banner year for the trumpet vine flowers and that provides the hummers with plenty of food.

Garden phlox can sure be an invasive spreader in the garden but it makes for nice color right now. I am trying to unravel the mystery of a phlox plant I found in the garden- trying to decide if I planted it or not. It’s in an area where there was no phlox, although that’s not unusual for phlox, and the leaves looked very yellow all summer. It now has pink flowers. I am trying to decide if I bought a variety with golden foliage, planted it and forgot I did it or if it has a nutritional problem- although it grew tall and full. Or maybe it’s a natural mutation that came up from seed. I could have bought a bargain plant last year I guess, and most of my plant labels disappeared this winter. Have you ever bought a plant and forgot about it?

Planning for fall garden color

Fall in the garden can be as lovely as spring is, full of flowers, textures and attractive foliage, if the gardener plans for fall color. If your garden seems a little drab this fall it’s time to think about what you can do to make it better next year.

Michigan usually has a few light frosts, then some milder weather before a big killer freeze. Don’t let your garden color disappear with those first light frosts. Some plants will survive very well until a hard freeze and others can be protected to prolong bloom. And there’s always the option of adding color to the garden again with potted fall blooming plants.

Using cool season annuals

Annuals can look fantastic in fall.

Many annuals such as calendula, snapdragons, geraniums, and diascia are just getting full and beautiful as cool weather approaches. They will survive light frost, and actually thrive in cooler weather. Ornamental cabbage and kale are excellent choices as cold weather really brings out their color. If pansies that were planted in the spring were cut back in mid-summer they will now respond with a new flush of bloom.

Some summer flowering bulbs like dahlias and cannas are great for fall color. They won’t survive frost unless you cover them, but they make great color splashes for fall gardens. After a hard frost kills them, dig the bulbs and save them for next year.

Using fall blooming perennials

There are many perennials that bloom late in the season and provide that color splash you need. Many sedums are fall blooming. Goldenrod and perennial asters are fall stars in the garden. Garden mums are a traditional fall favorite. Russian Sage blooms late and many of the landscape roses continue to bloom until a hard freeze. Anemones and cyclamen are fall bloomers for light shade. Keep the seed heads cut off buddleia and they will bloom for a long while into fall. Kniphofia blooms late, and if dead headed continues well into fall.

Asters make great fall blooming perennials.

Some perennials that are sold as re-blooming such as German iris and daylilies, struggle to re-bloom through much of Michigan. Your chances are greatest around the metro Detroit heat sink area and southwestern coastal areas. In some falls, however these re-bloomers will put on a show even in more northerly areas.

Don’t forget ornamental grasses for fall color. Many have beautiful fall flower spikes and by fall they also have impressive clumps of foliage.

Foliage and fruit for color

Yes the leaves of deciduous trees and shrubs can brighten the garden in shades of red and gold. If fall color in a tree or shrub is important to you, shop for them in the fall. You can then see if the color is what you want. Dogwood, crabapples, bittersweet, holly, viburnums, coralberry, and beautyberry are examples of plants with fruits that can provide fall color. Both English Ivy and Virginia Creeper are vines with brilliant red fall color.

But some smaller plants also have lovely fall color. Amsonia has pretty blue flowers in spring and turns into a golden flare in the fall garden. While hosta are browning and dying in cool fall weather the many foliage colors of heuchera are still lush and pretty. Wintergreen is a groundcover that turns a pretty burgundy-purple and has bright red berries also.

Sedums in fall garden

Using frost protection

The less hardy annuals and tender perennials putting on such a glorious show at the end of the season can continue to bloom if you remember to cover them when frost threatens. These include zinnias, nasturtiums, impatiens, begonias, coleus, petunias and marigolds. Save old thin sheets for this or buy floating row cover at the garden store. Newspaper is also a fair choice, although hard to keep in place. Avoid using plastic as it often causes damage to leaves that it touches. Remember to cover hanging baskets, containers and window boxes too if you want to prolong their bloom.

Plants will need to be covered whenever temperatures are expected to be below 40 º F and the sky is clear, and winds calm. Usually Michigan falls have a few nights of this weather then recover a bit for several weeks. If you protected your annuals they will be blooming through the better weather. On rainy nights, even very cool ones the plants are safe. However, if temperatures drop below 32ºF for more than an hour or so even your covers won’t help some of the plants.

Cheating

If you didn’t plan for fall color and suddenly find you need it, there are always those potted mums and icicle pansies that are available in pots in garden stores. Simply tuck the pots in wherever color is needed. If you want the icicle pansies to return and bloom in early spring it is better to plant them directly into the ground. Potted mums rarely survive winter even if the label says they are hardy. If you want to try to save them, plant them into the ground as soon as you get them, keep them watered until the ground freezes and don’t remove the dead stems until late spring when new growth has started.

Another good use for Cannabis

Hemp, (Cannabis without the high) is a big crop in many countries and is slowly being allowed as a cash crop in some areas of the US. I predict it will become legal to grow hemp, everywhere in the US within 5 years and that it will become a major cash crop here. Hemp is used for fiber production to make rope and textiles, as a bio-fuel crop and as an oil seed crop to make cooking oil.

But now a very important new use for hemp has been developed. It seems a waste product from hemp fiber production can be turned into very efficient supercapacitors. Supercapacitors are used in electronic items as electrodes that store and release power. Currently most supercapacitors are made from graphene, which is made of layers of carbon.

David Mitlin, Ph.D., University of Alberta, Canada already has a company producing electrodes from bast, a waste product of hemp fiber production. The bast electrodes are 2-3 times more powerful and efficient than graphene electrodes, cheaper to manufacture and relatively easy to make from a renewable resource. The research and product was presented at the 248th National Meeting & Exposition of the American Chemical Society (ACS) in San Francisco last week.

Bamboo beer?

Bamboo is another crop with many, many uses that is quick to grow in warmer climates. It’s used to produce building materials, paper, charcoal, vinegar and many other products. Now Mauricio Mora Tello, a Mexican entrepreneur has turned bamboo into beer.

Mora Tello had several bamboo plantations in Mexico and was exploring a market for bamboo products in that country. However bamboo production never really caught on there and Mora Tello decided to find another use for the plant. He developed a micro – brewery that uses bamboo to make a spicy, rich, brown beer with a thick foam that has proven to be quite popular. The beer is brewed used the bamboo foliage and two types of hops. His company Bambusa, located in Cholula, Puebla, Mexico has had to double the production of the beer this year.

Is your make-up making you sick?

It’s a big waste of time and money but make-up and associated products like moisturizing creams and perfume may also be making you sick. Research done at Uppsala University and published in the journal Diabetes Care links the phthalates in cosmetics, fragrances and other personal care products to a higher rate of diabetes.

As noted in other research phthalates disrupt hormones in the body and in this case the phthalates disrupt insulin and how it regulates blood sugar. People with high levels of phthalates in their blood are more likely to have diabetes or develop it than people without high levels of phthalates even when factors such as heredity and obesity were factored in.

Phthalates also disrupt growth and reproductive hormones, resulting in a variety of problems. Some research suggests they may be responsible for earlier puberty seen in girls in the last couple decades and increased infertility in men. Phthalates have also been linked to higher incidences of obesity, cancer, ADHD, liver and kidney disease, birth defects and Alzheimer’s disease. Interestingly the rising rate of phthalate use corresponds to rising rates of these diseases and conditions.

Phthalates can be ingested as when you drink from plastic containers where phthalates in the plastic leached into the drink, or they can be absorbed through the skin as when you apply foundation, eye liner, lipstick, sunblock or facial creams. Soaps, body washes, shampoos and other hair products also contain phthalates. They can be breathed in when people are exposed to hair spray, spray perfumes and room sprays. The presence of phthalates in food and drink containers is rapidly being phased out but their presence in other products continues to expand.

Phthalates exist not only in plastic containers but in the products themselves, as carriers of fragrance, emulsifiers, thickeners, scrubbing beads, eye lash enhancement fibers, and in many other applications and they have a variety of chemical names such as Mono-methyl phthalate (MMP), Mono-ethyl phthalate (MEP) and mono-isobutyl phthalate (MiBP) dimethylphthalate (DMP), Diethyl phthalate (DEP) and Di-isobutyl phthalate (DiBP). Unfortunately the producers of cosmetics aren’t required to list all ingredients in a product, they may simply list “fragrance” or “softening agents” or other vague terms on labels.

Here’s what the CDC says about phthalates:

CDC researchers found measurable levels of many phthalate metabolites in the general population. This finding indicates that phthalate exposure is widespread in the U.S. population.

Research has found that adult women have higher levels of urinary metabolites than men for those phthalates that are used in soaps, body washes, shampoos, cosmetics, and similar personal care products.

It may be time to toss that make-up in the trash and save your money, time, and your health.

Clean your bird feeder and save birds eyes

As early as 1994 it was noted by bird researchers that house finches were getting swollen infected eyes that often led to blindness. The problem was caused by a bacterial poultry parasite, Mycoplasma gallisepticum. It was thought until recently that house finches were the only wild bird species commonly affected. However researchers at the Cornell Lab of Ornithology recently captured and tested a variety of bird species for the bacteria and were surprised at what they found.

Most backyard feeder birds such as Chick a Dee’s, Tufted Titmice, and American Goldfinches as well as birds not associated with feeders such as wood thrushes, tested positive for the bacteria. In fact 27 common species were found to carry the bacteria although most did not show symptoms. Researchers warn that Mycoplasma gallisepticum has mutated several times in house finches and became more virulent over the years. They fear it’s only a matter of time before other species of birds become ill from the bacteria.

You can help control the spread of this bacterial disease by periodically taking down your feeder and scrubbing it in hot soapy water. You may also soak feeders in vinegar and water or a small amount of chlorine bleach mixed with water. While this disease is not known to affect humans it’s a good idea to wash your hands thoroughly after handling bird feeders.

This week’s weed- common cattail

The common cattail is found throughout North America, wherever there is a wet spot. Most people have learned to identify this plant by its “fruit” the firm brown cylindrical mass on a tall stem, that when broken open yields massive amounts of white fluff. Cattails can be a nuisance when they choke ponds and ditches and hard to destroy. Yet they are used in floral arrangements and people actually purchase plants to place in ornamental ponds.

Common cattails.

Cattails grow in full sun in areas where there is standing water or very wet soil. They can grow up to 10 foot tall to get their flowering parts out of the water, but if the water is much deeper than 6-7 feet they generally don’t colonize that area. They are capable of surviving even if all the standing water around them dries up for several months.

Common cattails, (Typha latifolia), are perennial plants that develop large root systems, but die to the ground each winter. The leaves are long and narrow and begin at the base of the plant, growing to 6 foot or longer. The plants spread by the root system to make huge stands of cattails and also reproduce from seeds.

The Cattail plant develops a two tiered flower in late spring; the familiar brown, rounded cylinder that persists into fall is a compacted group of the female flowers. On top of that is a similar looking yellowish cylinder of male flowers in early summer that produces abundant pollen. It, however, dries up to a “ stick” at the top of the plump brown cattail ‘wand” that develops. The “wand” is a compacted mass of tiny seeds, each connected to a bit of fluff. Late in the fall and winter the weather will break up the mass, dispersing the seeds on their bit of fluff in the wind.

On some plants the brown mass of seeds will look more rounded that cylindrical. A less common cattail found in the eastern side of the United States, the Narrow Leaved Cattail, has very small, pencil sized seed wands,( as well as narrow leaves), favored in floral arrangements. If you want the “wands” for dried arrangements pick them in early fall and spray them with clear craft sealer or even hairspray. This prevents them from breaking up into a fluffy mess.

For Native Americans and early pioneers the cattail was a source of food, fiber and “down”. The shoots of cattail leaves can be eaten like asparagus, the pollen is used like flour, the roots can be peeled and eaten like potatoes, and the immature “wands” can be boiled like corn and eaten. The leaves of cattails were woven into roofs, mats and baskets and the mature fluff was stuffed into shoes and clothing for insulation. Native women were said to stuff it into babies “ diapers”.

Muskrats and other aquatic animals feed on cattails and birds use the fluff in nests. Fish, frogs, aquatic insects and other small pond critters use cattails for hiding places and homes. Cattails also filter out excess nutrients and pollution from water. If they impede access to the water or drainage they can be cut down or you can consult with your County Extension office for chemical treatments.

Canning and Freezing peaches

As promised here are some tips on freezing and canning peaches, which should now be available at farm markets.

Peaches can be frozen sliced, frozen in syrup or sugar, frozen as a puree or nectar. Peaches darken after slicing and ascorbic acid, found with canning supplies, should be used if you want nice golden peaches when they thaw. Follow package directions. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is a natural product. Lemon juice can be used in place of ascorbic acid - 1/2 cup of lemon juice to a 1/2 gallon of water- although it will add its own flavor.

To easily peel peaches dip them into boiling water in a metal strainer for one minute, then plunge your strainer into ice water. The peels will slip right off. Peaches can also be peeled with a paring knife although that is much more tedious.

After peeling peaches slice them into either ascorbic acid solution or lemon juice solution to prevent darkening or if the label directs you some ascorbic acid products are sprinkled on dry. After a few minutes drain the slices, arrange them on a cookie sheet and put into the freezer until frozen. Then pack slices into containers to label and put back in the freezer. Frozen peaches will be soft when defrosted.

To sugar pack peaches for freezing toss peach slices with a 1/2 cup of sugar for every 2 cups of sliced peaches. Allow them to sit for 15 minutes and then freeze.

To syrup pack peaches for freezing, peel as above slice into ascorbic acid or lemon as above then put peaches into freezer containers. Bring a solution of 2-3/4 cups of sugar and 1 quart of water to boil and pour over the peaches. Let cool to room temperature and freeze.

Any recipe you made with peaches such as pie filling or pureed peaches can be frozen in freezer safe containers.

Canning peaches

Peel peaches as described in freezing. You can cut them in slices or use halves. Most people can peaches in quart sized containers. For the canning fluid you can use a syrup- 2-3/4 cups of sugar to a quart of water, brought to a boil, boiling water or boiling apple juice.

Pack sliced or halved peaches into clean, hot jars. If you use halves place the cut side down. Pour your boiling fluid of choice over the peaches to within 1/2 from the jar rim. Use a stick or spatula to gently run around the jar sides, to release trapped bubbles. If needed add more fluid. Fluid should cover the peach pieces totally but the peaches and fluid must be a 1/2 inch from the rim. Wipe the rim, add your lid and screw band.

Process quart jars of peaches in a water bath canner for 30 minutes. A pint jar would take 25 minutes. Although it’s not necessary peaches can be canned in a pressure canner. Set the pressure at 6 pounds for Michigan and process for 10 minutes, either pints or quarts.

Make sure to label all your canned or frozen peaches with the date you preserved them. Also indicate on the container that its peaches inside.

With a little time preserving them at harvest time Michigan peaches could be on your menu all year round.

It’s time to dance in the rain- don’t worry; everyone will be looking at their phone anyway.

Kim Willis

“He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information

Fall webworm

By Kim Willis- First published 9/2009 Detroit Gardening Examiner

If you are noticing those huge webs of wiggling worms on the tips of branches on trees in your area, don’t be alarmed. The fall webworm is a native seasonal pest that doesn’t significantly harm trees even though they look pretty ugly. In Michigan we begin seeing the “tents” of fall webworm in late August. Even after a hard freeze kills the worms inside, or they have become pupae, the nests may hang in the trees until winter winds dislodge them.

Fall webworm web nest on walnut tree.

Fall webworms are often confused with their spring cousins, the Eastern Tent Caterpillar. Fall webworms enclose leaves at the end of a branch with their white, web like tent. They feed inside the tent and enlarge it when all the leaves inside are eaten. Eastern tent caterpillars make their tents in the crotches of branches and they leave the tent to feed on leaves, returning to the tent for protection from weather. Eastern tent caterpillars appear in late spring and early summer, fall webworms late in the summer.

The nests of fall webworms are usually on the outside branches of a tree, where the branch extends over an open sunny area such as a road or lawn. This makes them very visible to concerned gardeners. Each nest contains a colony of small caterpillars, busily feeding on tree leaves. The caterpillars are either red headed or black headed. Black headed webworms are greenish, with two rows of black bumps on the sides. Red headed webworms are tan with orange or red bumps. Both are covered in long white hairs.

The adult fall webworm is a small white moth, occasionally marked with a few black spots. She lays her eggs on the underside of leaves, where they hatch and begin feeding. The young feed for about 6 weeks then drop to the ground to pupate and over-winter. Occasionally in Michigan’s southern counties there is enough warm weather in fall for the first generation to turn into moths and create a second generation. Levels of the pest are higher in some years too, with heavier populations every 5-7 years.

Fall webworms prefer to feed on trees such as wild cherry, walnut, hickories and fruit trees but can feed on almost any tree. They seldom feed on willows and cottonwoods. When a tent or web is disturbed all the little caterpillars move in a peculiar synchronized jiggling movement. This may be their attempt to make a predator think something much larger is lurking within.

Controlling fall webworm

Since trees are near the end of their active cycle the loss of leaves from Fall Webworms doesn’t harm them much. If the nests offend you, you can use your garden hose to spray them out of the tree or use a stick to knock them down, and then smash the worms. Worms won’t crawl back up the tree when knocked to the ground. You can trim the tents out of the tree if doing so doesn’t harm the looks of the tree. Valuable ornamental trees can be treated with systemic pesticides early in summer. These go through the tree and kill the worms as they start to feed on leaves later in the year.

Pesticide sprays are not recommended as the collateral damage to the environment isn’t worth it, as trees are barely affected by the feeding of the Fall Webworm. Most pesticides do not effectively penetrate the webs; they would have to be torn open. Spraying foliage around the nests may kill the caterpillars when they enclose more leaves into the web. And burning the tents with a blowtorch is far more dangerous to the tree and to you than the worms.

Fall webworms have several natural enemies in Michigan including yellow jackets and paper wasps. If you tolerate these insects on your property then you may have fewer fall webworms. Birds also like to eat the worms, especially if you tear the web for them.

Events, classes and other offerings

Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share? Post them here by emailing me.

New- Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! Workshop Sept. 2, Oct. 1 or Nov. 12. MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office and MSU Extension – Livingston County