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Tuesday, October 28, 2014

October 28, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

October 28, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners

The sun is back out after a stormy morning.  We got about 3/10’s inch rain here this morning.  The temperature is supposed to fall this afternoon and since the wind has now started the front is probably moving in.  They are saying snow for Halloween now- that’s a big BOO.

Up until last night I was still hearing robins and seeing the turkey buzzards, but I think the red–wing blackbirds have moved south.  A big sandhill crane was visiting my pond Sunday, probably on his way south. And there are still mosquitoes out there.

I got some trail camera pictures of deer coming to eat apples off the ground at night.  My apples weren’t good for much else, although I have gathered some for the chickens too.  Opossums are also eating apples. 

There are still flowers blooming in the garden.  Phlox has started blooming again for some reason.  There are a few sporadic petunias and other annuals blooming still too.  The bittersweet is looking pretty on the fence but most of the leaves are off the trees now and I don’t see much color left.

It’s harvest time in the country and the huge trucks and machinery are rumbling by my house.  Soybean harvest is late this year and farmers are scrambling to get it done before starting on corn.  Sugar beets were planted all around me this year and it’s projected to be a record breaking year for sugar beet production.  Harvest is going on now for them too, the problem is there is limited storage and processing facilities and some of the crop is going to have to be left in the field and disked under.  The farmers are getting paid to leave some of the crop in the ground.  Now that’s what’s wrong with American agriculture.

It’s the great pumpkin issue!

This week’s issue of the newsletter is devoted to the pumpkin, including history, Jack O Lantern carving and yummy pumpkin recipes.  Have fun.

Origin and History of Pumpkins

Before they even began growing corn Native Americans were growing pumpkins, both for storage vessels and for food.  Native peoples in the more northern areas of the continent tended to grow what became modern pumpkins and in western and more southern areas of the continent they grew plants that were closer to the squash and gourds that we know today.  However squash, gourds and pumpkins are closely related and can interbreed and in early history there was probably a wide variety of shapes, colors and sizes.  The earliest pumpkins were shaped more like gourds, with a “handle” or were pear shaped.  They came in a variety of colors.  The skin was tough and there was less fleshy matter than there is in modern pumpkins.

In small clearings in the forest and along fertile river banks patches of pumpkins were deliberately planted by the original Americans hundreds of years before Europeans arrived.  Maybe they were modeled after wild pumpkin patches where pumpkins grew after they floated down stream and washed on shore.  Later corn, beans and sunflowers often accompanied the pumpkins. 

Native Americans used every part of a pumpkin.  They were hollowed out, dried and used to hold seeds and other foods, even to carry water.  Some were elaborately decorated.  Pumpkins were used in soups and stews. The flesh of pumpkins was cut into strips and dried over open fires for storage.  Dried pumpkin could be pounded into a form of flour.  Young green pumpkins were eaten like we eat zucchini. Seeds were dried and used for food and medicine.  Pumpkin flowers were also eaten.  Even the leaves were used in some areas as a cooked green.

Native Americans introduced pumpkins and squash to early European settlers and they became an important winter food staple.  A common way to prepare pumpkin was to open the top and fill the cavity with milk, and eggs and sugar if available and then bury the pumpkin in the coals of the fire to cook.  The inside turned to custard like consistency which was scooped out and eaten.  Later when there was wheat to make flour, this pumpkin custard turned into pumpkin pies.  Pumpkins were also used in soups and as a roasted vegetable. Beer was even made from pumpkins, usually sweetened and flavored with maple sugar or syrup.   

It is said that Columbus brought pumpkin seeds to Europe, that may or may not be true but some early explorer certainly did introduce pumpkins and squash to Europe.  At first pumpkins were mainly used for animal food. Early cultivated pumpkins did not look like the smooth, bright orange fruits piled outside every store in the fall.  They were flatter and heavily ridged.   The color was more of a pinkish orange or red.  If you look at the illustrations in an early copy of the Cinderella story, you can get an idea of what early pumpkins looked like.   Somehow, in Europe pumpkins became entwined with the supernatural and many legends and fairytales include pumpkins.

Pumpkins are now grown and eaten in most areas of the world, although North America still grows far more pumpkins than any other country.  The top pumpkin producing state is Illinois, where the factory that produces Libby canned pumpkin is located in Morton.  Close to 2 billion pounds of pumpkins are produced in the US each year.

In some parts of Europe oil is pressed from pumpkin seeds and used for cooking.  Pumpkin seed oil is a reddish green and strongly flavored, but favored for some ethnic cuisines.  Pumpkin seeds are called pepitas and are a popular healthy snack in many countries.  Varieties of pumpkins whose seeds have no hulls are often grown for this purpose but all pumpkin seeds can be roasted and eaten.

The astoundingly huge pumpkins grown for competition are really squash.   They are generally large blobs of pale yellow instead of the round orange globes favored for seasonal decorations.  A winning pumpkin may weigh over 1500 pounds

Growing Pumpkins

Pumpkins can be grown over much of the United States.  In Michigan, the quickest maturing varieties must be chosen and the plants may need to be started indoors a few weeks before your last frost.  Pumpkin seeds are generally planted in the ground in Zone 5 and above, after the danger of frost is over and the soil is warm.   Mounding the soil and covering it with black plastic a week or so before planting pumpkins there will warm the soil and get plants off to a good start. 

Pumpkins must have full sun to grow well.  They prefer rich, fertile soil with lots of organic matter.  Pumpkins are heavy feeders and benefit from a little 5-10 -5 fertilizer worked into the soil at planting and fertilizing with a slow release fertilizer about half way through your growing season.  Pumpkins need regular watering if rainfall is less than an inch a week.  Try to water at the base of the plants and early enough in the day so that the leaves dry before night, as pumpkins are susceptible to fungal disease. 

Unless you have lots of room, don’t plant too many pumpkins.  Each vine will cover large amounts of space.  Even the mini pumpkins have large vines.  The pumpkin leaves are huge, with three lobes.  The vines are thick, dark green to black and both the leaves and vines are covered with sticky, scratchy hairs.  Pumpkin blooms are golden yellow; male flowers start opening first, then the females with the tiny pumpkin attached to the back of the flower begin to open.  The flowers need to be pollinated by insects to produce pumpkins.   Removing some of the later fruits that start to develop will help the first fruits grow larger. 

As the pumpkin vines grow longer, mound soil over them in various places.   The vines will put some roots down there to help feed the plant, which may save the plant if squash vine borers attack.  These insects lay eggs on the plants, which hatch into little worms that feed inside the pumpkin vine, causing the leaves to wilt.  Eventually the plant will die beyond the damaged area.  If you notice your pumpkin vines wilting and the soil is moist, check the vines for tiny holes with sawdust around them.  You can sometimes kill the worm with piece of wire, then mound soil over the damaged area and save the plant.

Harvest pumpkins when the leaves have been killed by the first frost. You can harvest earlier if the fruit has a mature color and the rind is firm.   Cut the pumpkin from the vine leaving several inches of stem.  Longer stems help pumpkins store better.  Let them cure in a sunny area for a few days if possible, then store out of the sun in a warm, dry area.  Don’t let pumpkins freeze or they will turn into mush.   Pumpkins that are almost ripe will continue to ripen a little after picking, but green pumpkins will not turn orange after picking. 

Choosing Varieties

There are over fifty pumpkin varieties on the market and most are decorative types.  There are large pumpkins, tiny ones, and yellow, red, blue, tan, and white ones.  There are some varieties, however, that are still being grown for eating.  There are also special varieties of pumpkins that are grown for producing seeds.  For Jack- O- Lanterns choose varieties such as ‘Howden,’ ‘Wolf,’ ‘Expert,’ ‘Connecticut Field,’ ‘Phantom.’  For large white pumpkins try ‘Lumina’ or ‘Full Moon’,  ‘Rouge Vif D’Etampes’ is a reddish, flattened Cinderella type, ‘One Too Many’ is orange and white striped, ‘Jamboree’ is blue-gray.  For cooking plant ‘Amish Pie,’ ‘Winter Luxury,’ ‘Small Sugar’, or ‘New England Pie.’  Mini pumpkins include ‘Baby Boo,’ (white),  ‘Wee Be Little,’ and ‘Jack Be Little.’   For huge competition pumpkins try ‘Dill’s Atlantic Giant,’ ‘Wyatt’s Wonder,’ or ‘Prizewinner.’  ‘Kakai’ and ‘Snackjack’ produce hull-less seeds for eating.

 Carving the perfect pumpkin

Long before pumpkins were turned into scary decorations, Europeans were hollowing out turnips and gourds as candle holders for “Hallows” Eve.    When the tradition was carried to the new world it was found that pumpkins make an excellent substitute for turnips.   If you are going to carve a pumpkin for Halloween this year here are some tips.
This chicken is carving its pumpkin.

Larger pumpkins are easier to clean out and you want a pumpkin with a sturdy stem for a handle.  Pumpkins with longer stems tend to last longer.  Lighter colored pumpkins are said to be easier to carve but they will not last as long.  Pumpkins don’t change color after they are picked so whatever color your pumpkin is when you buy or pick it, that’s the color it will be when you carve it.  Don’t carve your pumpkin too long before you want to display it.  Keep it outside in the shade or in a cool until you do carve it.  Pumpkins should be kept from freezing.  They can turn to mush if they freeze solid.


Wash the outside just before beginning.  Carefully cut a round area around the stem.  It should be large enough to get your hand inside.  The hole can’t be enlarged after you remove the top because the lid will not fit when you are done.  If the top does tend to fall inside, add a small piece of cardboard to the back of the lid’s rim held in place with a toothpick.  This will wedge it in place.

Clean off the bottom of the “top” and set it aside.   After cleaning out the “guts” (save the seeds), scrape the “meat” away down to about one inch thick.   A kitchen spoon makes a good cleaning and scraping utensil.  Slicing off a spot on the outside of bottom may make the pumpkin sit level. 

You can draw your proposed cuts on the pumpkin with a marker.  Some people use patterns that you can buy in craft stores to trace a face on the pumpkin.  Use your imagination and be creative.  Instead of a face you can carve a scene or a series of stars or other small openings that will glow when lit from inside.  Your name or address could also be carved into the pumpkin.

Once you have decided what to carve use a serrated pumpkin carving knife (sold in most stores that carry Halloween decorations), or use a serrated steak knife or any sharp kitchen knife.  Be careful that you don’t add real blood to the scary face by cutting yourself.  Parents may want to let kids draw a face or design and then cut it out for them.

After cleaning and carving, soak the pumpkin in a mix of 1 teaspoon of bleach to a gallon of water for a few minutes.  Pat dry inside and out, or dry carefully with a hair dryer, and then coat your carving cuts with a thin layer of petroleum jelly.   

Options to carving

Some people opt to paint the pumpkin instead of carve it.  Most acrylic craft paints will work and are non-toxic.  The pumpkin could be rinsed off after Halloween and used to make pie.

Black duct tape can be used to tape a face on the pumpkin.  If you can’t find black duct tape color a darker shade of tape with black marker.  Cut the tape into shapes that make a scary or happy face and apply to a dry pumpkin.  Note: electrical tape won’t stick to pumpkins.

Another alternative to carving a pumpkin is to pin things like buttons, felt shapes, flowers or seed pods to the pumpkin.  You can still find straight pins in the sewing notions section of stores and toothpicks can even be used.  Kids enjoy this sort of pumpkin decorating almost as much as carving one and there is much less mess.

Lighting your carved creation

Using a battery powered light instead of a candle makes the Jack O Lantern last longer. Small twinkling Christmas lights can be stuffed inside, a battery powered string works great.  If you do use a candle, you can coat the inside of the lid with cinnamon, cloves or other spices for a delightfully scented pumpkin. 

Use solar lights to light your Jack O Lantern

Want a new, environmentally friendly and safe way to light up your Jack O Lantern?  Use solar lights. The simple inexpensive stake type solar light used to light paths is an excellent pumpkin light.  The solar light uses no electricity, and is perfectly safe, it won’t start fires or burn anything and because there is no heat with the light the pumpkin stays fresh longer.  They turn on automatically when it’s dark and most solar lights will last many hours after a sunny day and will even come on for a while after a not so sunny day.
Pumpkin with solar light.

Measure the top, light collecting part of your solar light and cut the hole in the pumpkin so the light will fit snugly inside the hole with just the top exposed.  (You’ll need to clean out the pumpkin “guts” first before you fit the light inside.)  If you can’t get your hands inside to clean the pumpkin out with a small hole, you can make the hole bigger, and then use wood skewers or stiff wire across the opening to support the light.  Or find a glass jar that supports the stake light with the light top sticking just above the opening in the pumpkin. On a taller pumpkin the light can be left on its stake but for shorter pumpkins you may have to remove the stake from the light.  Carve a face in your pumpkin as usual.

The pumpkin must be sitting in the sun during the day so the solar panel can collect light energy.  And most solar lights can’t be entirely inside the pumpkin at night.  The sensor turns the light on when it’s dark, so they do come on as darkness falls but they turn off quickly because the light in an enclosed space causes the sensor to turn the light off.  The sensor part of the light must be outside the pumpkin, in the dark, at night. 
Same pumpkin at night.

If you don’t have a sunny area to place the pumpkin in there are strings of solar “fairy lights” that can be purchased which have a solar panel connected to the light string that can be placed a short distance from the lights to collect energy.  The light string can be coiled inside the pumpkin without harm.  Other types of solar lights with remote light collectors are also available but these options are more expensive than the simple solar stake light.

Uses for left over pumpkins

Other than Halloween decorations pumpkins make great seasonal décor inside or out.  Uncut pumpkins will last a long time if they don’t freeze or get too hot.  Different colors and shapes of pumpkins can be grouped together, maybe on a straw bale or in a wicker basket. 

A pumpkin can be hollowed out to hold a glass or metal container in which a mum or dry floral arrangement could be placed. It could also be filled with dry corn to hold things like cattails, turkey feathers and dried grasses.  Inside as a table decoration, small green plants or other flowers could be inserted.   Halloween candy or other treats can be served from a pumpkin lined with a plastic bowl.  Votive candles can be placed inside small pumpkins for table tops. Don’t carve a scary face on these table toppers; instead carve a scene or random shapes into the pumpkin. White pumpkins can be coated with glitter for a different look.  

Left over pumpkins can become great food for wildlife and livestock.  Chickens love pumpkins and placing a whole one in the coop is great for relieving boredom while providing a healthy treat.  Cows, goats, sheep, pigs and even horses love pumpkins but introduce them in small amounts so you don’t make the animals sick. 

Split a pumpkin in half and leave the halves near your bird feeder.  Many birds enjoy the seeds as well as the flesh of the pumpkin.  Deer love pumpkins and they can be used in bait piles.

Of course pumpkins make great people food too.  Last week’s newsletter had canning and preserving directions.  Look for some pumpkin recipes later in this newsletter.

If you have no animals to feed and no longer need harvest decorations you can compost the pumpkins.  But be careful, if they still have seeds inside and you toss them in the flower bed, on the lawn or compost pile, you may get pumpkin vines growing there next year!

How to cook pumpkin seeds

Did you save the seeds when you carved that Jack O Lantern?  Rinse them off and allow them to dry overnight.  Line a cookie sheet with foil and spread the seeds in a single layer.   Spray them with cooking spray and then sprinkle with salt and other seasonings.  Garlic salt, red pepper, parmesan cheese, and cinnamon are all good seasonings to try.  Bake the seeds at 250 degrees for about an hour or until they are golden brown.  Cool and enjoy!  

Pumpkin medicinal uses

Pumpkin seeds have long been used to get rid of intestinal worms like pin worms and tapeworms and there is some scientific evidence suggesting they do kill internal parasites.  In this use the raw seeds are hulled and eaten or made into a paste with honey and eaten.

Pumpkin seeds have long been a traditional way to treat prostate swelling and inflammation and medical research does support this claim.  Raw or roasted seeds are eaten for this use.  Pumpkin seed oil is also being evaluated for this use. Pumpkin seeds are also a mild diuretic and are used in traditional medicine to treat kidney and bladder problems.

Pumpkin  seeds have many medicinal uses.
Photo credit flickr.com
Traditional medicine has used pumpkin extracts to lower blood sugar and recent studies have found that the extract does increase blood insulin levels.  Also pumpkin extracts, pumpkin seed oil and pumpkin seeds are being studied in the treatment of several forms of cancer.  They are high in antioxidants.  Several studies have shown that those who eat pumpkin seeds frequently have lower incidences of breast, prostate, lung, gastric and colorectal cancer.    

The leaves of pumpkins can be steeped in hot water and used for fevers.  In Eastern medicine pumpkin is used for mental problems.  Recent research has shown that pumpkin seeds have high levels of tryptophan, which can relieve depression.

Pumpkin has a lot of fiber and has long been used as a safe, gentle laxative.

A puree of pumpkin pulp soothes and softens skin and is used for pimples and minor skin irritations.

Pumpkin recipes

Ah – for the fun and tasty part.  Pumpkin is high in amino acids and vitamins B, C, D, E and K.  It also contains minerals like calcium, copper, potassium and phosphorus.  Pumpkin contains healthy antioxidants and flavonoid compounds such as carotenes.   It’s low in fat and proteins but high in carbohydrates.   It has lots of dietary fiber.

There are tons of pumpkin recipes but here are a few to get you started.

Pumpkin Fudge Bars

Cookie Base:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup quick or old-fashioned oats
3/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 cup flaked coconut
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
3/4 cup butter, softened

Fudge top:
2 tablespoons butter
2/3 cup (5 fl.-oz. can) evaporated Milk
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup canned pumpkin (not pie filling)
1 1/2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups miniature marshmallows
1 & 2/3 cups (11-oz. pkg.) Butterscotch flavored morsels
3/4 cup chopped walnuts
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

First make the cookie base.  Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees.  Line a 15 x 10 or equivalent pan with foil. 
 
Mix all the cookie ingredients except the butter in a bowl until well blended.  Cut in the butter until a crumbly mixture forms.  Pat the mixture down evenly over the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake until slightly brown, about 15 minutes.  Let cool.

Now make the fudge part.  Combine the butter, evaporated milk, sugar, pumpkin, pumpkin pie spice and salt in medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, over medium heat. Boil, and stir constantly, for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

Stir in the marshmallows, butterscotch morsels and vanilla with ½ cup of the nuts.  Stir until the marshmallows melt and the mixture is well blended.  Pour the fudge mix over the cookie base and refrigerate until firm.  Cut into bars.  Makes about 48 bars.

Pumpkin Dip

Here’s a sweet dip you can serve in a hollowed out pumpkin!  Use the dip with cookies, apple wedges, crackers or even veggies.

1 can, (15 oz.) pumpkin (not pumpkin pie filling)
1 pkg.  (3.4 oz.) JELL-O Vanilla Flavor Instant Pudding ( you can use the new pumpkin spice flavor too or use sugar free vanilla instant pudding)
1 tsp.  pumpkin pie spice
1 tub  (8 oz.) COOL WHIP Whipped Topping, thawed

Blend all the ingredients except the cool whip in a large bowl with electric mixer.  Blend in the cool whip by hand.  Refrigerate one hour to thicken.  Serve cold.

Pumpkin and apple soup
Yummy and healthy.

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 firm apples, peeled and diced
1 small yellow onion, peeled and finely diced
6 cups chicken stock
3/4 cup apple cider
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon thyme
2 cans (15 oz. each) pumpkin puree (not pie filling)
3 tablespoons light brown sugar
1/2 cup heavy cream

Put the olive oil in a large pot over low heat.  Add the onions and apples, cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and golden.

Pour in the stock, cider, pepper and thyme.  Bring to a boil, boil 1 minute.  Pour in the pumpkin puree and use a whisk or immersion blender to blend until smooth.

Add the cream and sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved.  Turn down heat to simmer and simmer about 10 minutes.  Makes about 6 servings.

Have a happy Halloween. 
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information

Picking the right pumpkin from the patch
Colorful with interesting shapes, today’s cucurbits, or pumpkins, may actually surprise you!
Posted on October 8, 2014 by Rebecca Finneran, Michigan State University Extension

Plants knows as “cucurbits” can be colorful, decorative and even spooky-looking! So what is this curiously named plant? It’s the humble pumpkin, our beloved Halloween icon! Pumpkins, squash and gourds comprise some of the most interesting plants in this family known as Cucurbitacea or simply cucurbits.
The scrambling annual vines of this group of plants produce blossoms resulting in fruits with thick, edible flesh. Cucurbits such as pumpkins and gourds may be very colorful, vary in size, and can appear smooth, ridged, lumpy or horned. Native to South America, the durable plants have been an important food source for native people across the continent. Records indicate that this group of plants made their way to other continents shortly after the discovery of the “new world.”

One of the most interesting science facts about cucurbits is that each plant produces both male and female flowers. Male flowers most often emerge before the female flowers, which when pollinated, will result in a fruit. Weather patterns can affect both pollination and fruit set, so often gardeners are disappointed in the number of fruits their plants yield at the end of the season. Michigan producers have dozens of cultivars to choose from and with the good growing season, the crop is abundant.

Great pumpkin!


If you are looking for a traditional, round to oval, orange orb this Halloween, cultivars such as the traditional ‘Howden’ will do fine. In the pumpkin world, names are everything. ‘Mrs. Wrinkles’ sports deeply grooved, dark-orange skin. Giant pumpkin strains offer the easily spooked trick-or-treater a thrill with their overwhelming size. Germinating from seed that originated from a grower in Nova Scotia, 50 to 100 pounders are common in this group. The current world record weighed in at over 2,000 pounds. This time of year, displays of prize-winners can be found at public gardens, fairs and other festive events.

In recent years, white became the new orange in pumpkin displays with smooth-skinned, white cultivars known as ‘Lumina,’ ‘Valenciano,’ ‘Moonshine’ and the miniature-sized ‘Baby Boo.’ But why stop with white? Many cultivars today have gray-green coloration and may be short in stature, but are not short on character. Deeply incised lobes give this group of pumpkins the true “Cinderella’s carriage” effect. A bright scarlet, French pumpkin, ‘Rouge D’ Etampes’ adds contrast to a fall display akin to a fiery globe.

Interesting characteristics have also adorned recent releases of both pumpkins and gourds such as bumps, wings and warts. Seems to be the more gruesome, the better as exhibited on the cultivar known as ‘Knuckle Head.’ It is so bumpy it takes on a personality all its own. Gourd mixes and blends just seem to get more and more distorted, adding to their interest in the fall display or individual table-top adornment.

No matter what type you choose this fall, be sure the skin is not kicked or broken which will allow rotting more quickly. Avoid allowing your pumpkins and gourds to sit in a wet area. Look for a stem that is still green and firmly attached for the same reason. While outdoor displays will last much longer, an indoor display will last better if placed in a cool, dry room or porch.
This article was published by Michigan State University Extension. For more information, visit http://www.msue.msu.edu.

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me.

I have several free roosters, bantam and full sized if anyone is interested.  Young, healthy.  3 month old muscovy mostly black ducklings for sale $5.       Kimwillis151@gmail.com


 New- Gardening on the Road- November 10, 2014, 4:30 - 7 p.m. Eastern Michigan Fairgrounds, 195 Midway St., Imlay City, MI

 
 A class for those interested in:
Picking the best varieties to select for your home garden
When a vegetables is ready to harvest
Getting answers to your gardening questions
Growing your own greens, root vegetables and squash
Pumpkins and their kin—winter squash
How to store and cook your produce
Watching cooking demos for easy to prepare dishes
Tasting samples of delicious new dishes
Learn great composting techniques, stabilize soil pH, keep moisture and air in soil and provide nutrients. Set up bins, hot, warm and cold composting methods and worm composting


Cost: $20  Online registration due by Nov. 6. Call for more information at  810-989-6935, 810-667-0341


Presented by the Master Gardeners of St. Clair and Lapeer Counties. Visit the Gardening on the Road registration page for more information.


Composting with Red Worms, November 6, 2014, 6:30 - 8 p.m. MSU Extension Office, 21885 Dunham Rd., Clinton Twp., MI
 
Macomb MSU Extension is presenting “Composting with Red Worms” on Thursday, November 6, 2014 at the Macomb MSU Extension Office, 21885 Dunham Rd., Clinton Twp., 48036 (Use Entrance E at the rear of the building). Join us from 6:30-8 p.m. for a free presentation on worm composting. Learn how to use worms to compost your food scraps. Master Composter volunteer Sarah DeDonatis will cover everything from the type of worms to use to the construction, care and maintenance of the worm bins.

Contact: Mary Gerstenberger, gerste10@anr.msu.edu, 586-469-6085
Please register in advance by calling 586-469-6440.

Prairie Seed Collecting, Sunday, November 2, 1:00 pm, Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Rd, Dryden, Phone:(810) 796-3200
Come out to our tall grass prairie to learn all about the prairie and its plants while collecting seeds for your own yard or garden. Bring some paper bags and a bucket if you plan on collecting seeds. $3 admission for non-members.

Skeleton Trees, Sunday, November 30, 2:00 pm,  Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Rd, Dryden, Phone:(810) 796-3200

Now that most of the trees are bare let’s see if we can figure out which tree is which during this nature walk. $3 admission for non-members.


Cottage to Commercial: Ingredients for a successful food business- Several locations and dates

Michigan State University Extension and MSU Product Center Educators will conduct four food business planning classes September through November in Berrien, Muskegon, Ingham and Kent County, Michigan locations.
The two-hour session addresses basic food processing, regulatory requirements, business development resources, and related topics. The program targets individuals who are interested in starting a licensed, commercial food business.
The Kent County session is scheduled for 10 a.m. - 12 p.m., Tuesday, Nov. 11, 2014 at Kent County MSU Extension 775 Ball Ave. N.E., Grand Rapids, MI 49503. The fee is $20 per person, and registration is available online through Nov. 4, 2014.

The MSU Product Center helps aspiring entrepreneurs and existing businesses to develop and launch new product and service ideas into food, agriculture, bioenergy and natural resources markets. A statewide network of Innovation Counselors is available to counsel individuals interested in starting related business ventures. Last year the MSU Product Center assisted 647 clients with business planning.

Those who are unable to attend one of the offerings are invited to request counseling with a field- based MSU Product Center innovation counselor at www.productcenter.msu.edu , or by phone at 517-432-8750 This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! Workshop, Nov. 12. MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office and MSU Extension – Livingston County

Learn how to grow, store and prepare a variety of fresh vegetables by attending one or all of these mid-Michigan workshops.
Posted on August 12, 2014 by Diane Brown, Michigan State University Extension

Home vegetable gardening is once again popular. In addition to vegetables you grow yourself, a bounty of beautiful produce awaits at farmer’s markets and from community supported agriculture (CSAs). But do you know the best varieties to select for your home garden? Do you know how to tell when a vegetable is ready to harvest, or what to look for at the market? How to store them? How to cook them? Get answers to these questions and more during a series of three Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! workshops from Michigan State University Extension designed to help you make the most of fresh garden vegetables. Cost: $20 for one session/$50 for all three.

Nov. 12, 2014, 6-8 p.m. Pumpkins and Their Kin – winter squash and pumpkins Location: MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office, 5303 S. Cedar St., Lansing, MI 48911
Register online for these exciting workshops, and save $10 over individual workshop pricing when you register early for all three events. Contact the Ingham County MSU Extension office at 517-676-7207 for more information.


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com




Tuesday, October 21, 2014

October 21, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

October 21, 2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter


These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners

Soybean field that will be harvested soon.
All these gray and gloomy days are hard to get used to aren’t they?   I miss my sunny evenings in the garden already.  I am still hearing red winged black birds and robins and last night coming back from the barn at dusk mosquitoes were still flitting around.  Right now out my office window I can see buzzards soaring in the gray sky.  So it’s not winter yet and I hear we are supposed to have a sunny weekend. 

The grass is still green and growing.  I don’t think we ever had brown grass this summer nor did a week go by without needing to mow.  My fences are hanging with the red berries of woody nightshade.  I was not vigilant in keeping the vines pruned down and I will have a mess next spring getting them out of the fence. But they do look pretty when it snows. 

After some plants are killed by frost you often get some surprises.  Under a big Scotch pine in the yard we have a ground cover of ferns and lilies of the valley.  As those died down I finally found where the “yard” chickens had been laying their eggs, there was easily 50 eggs in a huge pile under the tree.

Every time we had a dry day I have been out planting bulbs.  I am caught up now and only have the back ordered bulbs to plant should they ever arrive.  I always love to see the new bulbs in the spring.

I have been examining my garden beds and thinking about what did and didn’t grow well this year.  For example I have an older pink shrub rose called Kathleen and a Pink Knockout rose in the same location and neither did very well this year, they both defoliated from blackspot quite early in summer and are just now recovering.  Yet my Sunny Knock Out and a rose called Carefree Celebration which are just 30 feet away did quite well all summer and are still blooming.  Location or variety?

The lovely petunias I was so proud of early in the season did not do well from August on.  They too, seemed to suffer from more fungal woes than usual.  My dahlias however, grew and bloomed fantastically.  Hostas did well this season, but my heuchera were a disappointment.  My hardy mums were smaller and spindly this year.  I think that was from poor winter conditions. 

In the spring I will be digging out tons of garden phlox, variety David, and its purple sport or throwback.  They have completely taken over a long perennial bed I have in the center of the yard.  I have decided to pull out all the smaller perennials from that bed, except the phlox, and replace them with shrubby perennials like viburnums and hydrangeas.  I have a new spot for the perennials I remove from there.  Those are some of my ambitious plans – what are yours?

It’s not too early to start thinking of next year’s garden

As winter grows near and frost has withered some of the garden it’s time to do a walk-through of the garden and take some notes. You think you will remember what your garden needs to make it look better in just the few months to spring, but trust me you won’t remember everything. 

Do you need to move some plants to a better location or so that they have more room?  Make a note.  In the spring when the plants are young and small you may forget just how crowded or unhappy looking they are by mid-summer.  If the plants weren’t doing well because they didn’t have the right light or soil conditions can you identify a place where they might do better?  Write it down.  It’s probably too late in the fall now to move most plants but you can be ready early next spring.  You may decide some plants need to be dug and taken to a plant swap next spring.

If you have a spot that didn’t look good this year write down ideas on what you can do to improve that area next year.  It’s easy to forget that something was wrong early in spring when everything looks new and promising.  Maybe you need to prune woody plants, add some color or texture to a perennial bed, remove deteriorating decorative items, add a bench, add new mulch to paths, fill in bare spots or paint a fence.   Think big.  Is there a spot for a new bed or a new garden feature such as a pond?

In the vegetable garden write down where crops grew so you can rotate your crops to new spots next spring.  If plant tags remain or you know the names of certain plant varieties you may want to note which did well and which did not.

Fall garden.
It really helps to take pictures of your garden and yard several times throughout the growing season.  Take pictures of everything, not just the pretty spots.  You don’t have to show the ugly spots to anyone but they will help you make decisions for new purchases this winter as you review your notes from your fall tour.  And the photos may help you remember just where certain things are and how much space they consumed when mature when you go to plant in the spring.

If you had garden failures this year don’t blame yourself or agonize over mistakes.  Spring is coming and with it a fresh start.  Next year’s garden can always be better, especially if you take time to reflect on the past garden season as it draws to a close.

Eating fish may be healthy for you but not the environment

You hear it all the time- eat more fish, it’s good for you.  And despite the cost people around the world are eating more fish- too much fish, it turns out.  Researchers at Johns Hopkins Center for a Livable Future are warning various health organizations promoting increased consumption of fish that the world has reached and maybe overreached its limit on what fish can be taken from the wild before causing the extinction of many species.  And farmed fish are causing major environmental damage.

About half of the world’s consumption of fish now comes from farmed fish.  But fish farms are major polluters of water and the farmed fish are filled with antibiotics and other medications that are also being released into the environment.  Fish farmers also harvest smaller wild fish that aren’t used for human consumption to feed farmed fish.  This deletes the food supply for the remaining wild fish populations.

Fish farms are often dirty enough that the harvested fish can be a health hazard to consumers and the conditions of workers on fish farms in many countries are deplorable.  Both wild harvested and farmed fish often contain high levels of mercury and other chemicals which make their consumption by children and pregnant women risky.  You may actually be damaging your health instead of benefitting it when you consume fish.

There are some sustainable, environmentally friendly fish farms around the world but the vast majority of fish farms at this time don’t fall into this category.   Researchers are asking that the recommendations by nutritionists to eat more fish be dropped.  While fish can still be a part of a healthy diet we must recognize that when we consume fish we are damaging the environment and possibly causing the extinction of numerous fish species.  And the farmed fish we consume may be filling us with antibiotics and other chemicals that just shouldn’t be part of a healthy diet.

Organic bedbug control

Bedbugs are a nasty, hard to exterminate problem.  The chemicals used to kill bedbugs are strong and toxic, which has resulted in a number of “organic” or “natural” products being produced for consumers who worry about pesticide exposure.  Researchers at Rutgers University decided to scientifically test several products on the market to see if they were really effective.

These natural bedbug products are generally made from essential oils from plants.  They usually contain one or more of these active ingredients: geraniol, rosemary oil, mint oil, cinnamon oil, peppermint oil, eugenol, clove oil, lemongrass oil, sodium lauryl sulfate, 2-Phenethyl propionate, potassium sorbate, and sodium chloride.

Researchers tested 11 commercial products but found only one, EcoRaider, which contains  1% geraniol, 1% cedar extract, and 2% sodium lauryl sulfate that killed 90 % of nymph or young bedbugs and 87% of bedbug eggs.  Another product Bed Bug Patrol, which consists of 0.003% clove oil, 1% peppermint oil, and 1.3% sodium lauryl sulfate, also killed 90 % of bedbug nymphs but was not effective on bedbug eggs.  The research found that the inactive ingredients, the “spreaders and stickers”, were as important as the active ingredients in creating an effective product.

Researchers cautioned that these products were tested in lab conditions and when used in a home with its many cracks and crevices the effectiveness of the products would probably be reduced.  Research in the field will soon be conducted.

Mow, don’t blow

Nature is leaving you a valuable present right now but many of you are probably wasting that treasure.  The falling leaves are full of valuable minerals collected by the trees all summer.  When you allow them to decompose where they fall, they return those nutrients to the soil while also providing an excellent helping of organic material to increase water retention and aeration of the soil.

Its convention, not necessity that keeps people raking and blowing leaves instead of leaving them alone as nature intends.  Instead of thinking about leaves as being a beautiful, natural blanket of fertilizer and comfort for the plants and soil, we feel that we must expose the grass beneath the leaves to its summer look by raking or blowing the leaves away. And what would happen if a flower bed collected a covering of leaves or a fence corner caused a pile up of blowing leaves?  Certainly not the disaster some people worry about.

Beautiful fertilizer on the ground.
Ugly is in the eye of the beholder.  If leaves on the lawn bother you too much take your lawn mower and run through them, chopping them into small pieces and distributing them more evenly. (This works best when the leaves are dry.) The chopped pieces will soon disappear into the burrows of earthworms or by decay.  If you mulch leaves into your lawn you don’t need to add a fall fertilizer to the lawn.

Leaves are fine to leave in flower beds.  If you want to remove leaves from walks, gutters, decks and driveways which don’t need fertilization and conditioning, rake them up and dump them in the vegetable garden, on flower beds or into a compost pile.  Don’t waste a valuable resource by placing them in plastic bags and sending them to the landfill.

The leaf blower is a noisy, environmentally unfriendly machine. They use gas, emit fumes, and annoy neighbors while damaging your hearing.  Good gardeners don’t need leaf blowers or want them.  Some gardeners worry about leaves “smothering” the grass or other plants, but that just doesn’t happen often in nature.  If in spring you think a mat of leaves is preventing plants from growing or keeping the soil too cold and wet you can gently remove the mats from around the plants.  If leaves still cover the lawn in the spring, bring out the mower and chop them up. 

Stop thinking of leaves as messy and ugly. Thank nature for being so resourceful in recycling precious soil nutrients.   Work with nature instead of against it.   All it takes is a change of attitude.  Sell your leaf blower and buy more plants.

What were this year’s top new annual flowers?
Every year MSU’s horticulture department grows many new annual plants submitted to them by nurseries.  They rate the plants and publish their results so homeowners can see what new annual plants did well in Michigan conditions.  You can look at the list and the staff’s comments at this site:


Using fresh sage in cooking

If you haven’t harvested your sage it’s time to do so.  Sage can be dried for winter cooking or used fresh.  If you didn’t grow sage in the garden- why not? Well, you can always buy some at the farmers market.  Here are some ways to use sage just as it comes from the garden.

Sage plant with flowers.
A new, trendy treat is fried sage leaves.  You can batter the leaves or fry them without batter.  Choose larger sage leaves and remove them from the stems.  Wash and dry the leaves. Heat some cooking oil to about 350 degrees.  If you want to batter the sage leaves make a thin batter of water and flour with seasonings like garlic powder, pepper and salt.  Dip the leaves and quickly add them to the hot oil.  To fry sage leaves without batter, add leaves to hot oil.  Let the leaves lightly brown on one side, then flip them and brown the other.  This will only take a minute or so.  Work in small batches and don’t crowd the pan.  Remove them to paper towels to drain and eat them hot. You can sprinkle the hot fried leaves with powdered parmesan cheese or use them with a dip also.

Fresh sage leaves can be added to butter in a frying pan and heated just enough to lightly brown the butter.  The leaves are then strained out and the flavored butter is used in soups, sauces or to baste meat.

Here’s how to make an interesting orange sage marinade. Blend together 1/4 cup unsweetened orange juice, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 1 tablespoon minced fresh sage, 3 tablespoons brown sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper and 1/2 cup Dijon mustard in a large bowl.  Marinade up to 3 pounds of boneless chicken or pork pieces in the mix for 1-3 hours (in the refrigerator) before grilling or broiling them.

You can use fresh sage to season baked chicken or other poultry.  Lightly coat a whole chicken or chicken pieces with oil or melted butter. Sprinkle on chopped fresh sage, rosemary and marjoram with salt and pepper to suit your taste before baking the chicken.

Here’s a recipe for a fresh sage dip.  Combine 1- 8 oz. package of cream cheese, 1/3 cup sour cream, 1/3 cup grated parmesan cheese, 1/4 cup mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage leaves, and 2 tablespoons fresh chopped celery leaves in a food processor and blend until smooth. Place in a bowl and refrigerate 5-8 hours to blend flavors. Serve at room temperature.

This week’s weed – Buttercups

There are three kinds of common Buttercups,( Ranunculus), in Michigan, bulbous, creeping and tall.  The plants are similar and most people will not be able to make a distinction among them.  They occur in sunny, overgrown fields and roadsides.  Bulbous buttercup has a rosette of leaves around a bulb like base.  Tall buttercups lack the thickened base and creeping buttercups form a prostrate plant.  All are perennial.

The leaves of buttercups form a clump at the base of the plant.  They are divided into 3 parts, each part is also lobed.  The 2 bottom divisions occur opposite each other with the third part toward the top, joined by a short stem. The stems of the leaves are hairy.  A few leaves are found widely spaced on the long flower stalks that develop.   All parts of the buttercup are toxic to livestock, but animals seldom choose to eat them.  Once dried, as in hay, they are no longer toxic.

Creeping buttercups ( leaves aren't showing).
The stems of tall buttercup flowers may reach 3 feet high, both of the other buttercups have shorter flowering stems. 

The shiny, golden yellow flowers draw the eye but don’t pick them.  Buttercups can cause blisters on human skin from their sap.  There are 5-7 petals which are broad at the tip and narrow to a wedge at the center.  There is a cluster of yellow stamens and pistils in the center of each flower, which when jiggled by the wind, allow the plant to pollinate itself, which is a somewhat primitive reproduction strategy for a plant with showy flowers.  Buttercups bloom from April to July in Michigan. 

Bulbous butter cups have 5 sepals at the bottom of the flower that curve away from the flower base.  The other types have sepals that do not curve.  Creeping buttercups have the largest flowers at about an inch to 1½ inches wide; the others have flowers from 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch wide.

Creeping buttercups form new plants as they creep along the ground and they also reproduce through seeds as do the other two.  The seeds are produced in great number.  They are hard brown, flattened ovals with a distinctive hook on one end.

Love the leaves, leave them lay.
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero

More Information

Saving plant seeds for next season
Many gardeners contemplate saving some seeds from vegetables or flowers for planting next season. Is it a good or bad idea? Consider all the information before gathering those first seeds.

Posted on October 9, 2014 by Gretchen Voyle, Michigan State University Extension

If you are considering saving vegetable or flower seeds for next season, the first important step is to know if your plants are hybrids. Saving seed packages or tags from plants can give you that information. It is never a good idea to save seeds from hybrid plants unless you are not concerned with the quality of your future plants.

A hybrid is created by crossing two closely related plants. Neither Mom nor Pop was fantastic, but the cross gives a plant with exceptional qualities that the parents did not possess. The problem is that the seeds from the hybrid revert back to one of the parents or are a scramble of genetic material that is most likely not going to be desirable. The chance of having a plant as good as the one you currently have is remote.

If you want to save vegetable seeds, you want seeds that were open pollinated. That means they were pollinated by insects, wind or other natural ways.

Light frosts will probably not affect seed quality. Heavy frosts could damage seeds if they were not ripe at the time of freezing. Seed pods should dry naturally on the plant and the seed head should be brown as well as the contents. Seeds that are green or yellow are unripe. Often, they do not grow next season.

The only time that rule of brown and dry does not apply is if we’re talking about weed seeds. They attained their weed status by being able to put up with the most adverse conditions.

When picking the seed heads from plants, remove the seeds from the pod or whatever is enclosing the seeds. This allows them to dry more. Dampness is the enemy of seeds. The seeds could either mold or begin to grow and neither event is wanted. Spread seeds in one layer in an open container. The seeds will dry more indoors in the presence of warm, dry air.

Store your dry seeds in a paper envelope or paper bag. Avoid plastic because it can trap moisture. If the seeds mold, they are very likely dead. Store your seed packs at room temperature with air circulating. Label the envelopes so you know what you have.

In the spring, plant as you would regularly. Unless you are experienced at collecting and storing seeds, you may not want to just use your stored seeds if a food crop is important. Mark your rows and compare between what you have gathered and what you purchased. Be a smart gardener and compare the crops.

Michigan State University Extension warns there are several things to consider when dealing with open pollinated seeds. Some vegetable garden seeds could be a problem if another closely related vegetable is growing nearby. Examples would be those in the cucurbit family like squash growing near gourds. The swapped pollen could create a mystery squash-gourd combination that is useless. Another example would be corn. Sweet corn growing near popcorn, Indian corn or field corn could give a bizarre mix-and-match ear that is inedible.

The last opportunity to collect seeds is right now, so consider these tips when collecting some seeds for next year’s garden.

This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me.

I have several free roosters, bantam and full sized if anyone is interested.  Young, healthy.  3 month old muscovy mostly black ducklings for sale $5.       Kimwillis151@gmail.com



Rare & Unusual Plants Mon, October 27, 7pm. First United Methodist Church 1589 W Maple Rd, Birmingham, MI

Sponsored by Metro Detroit Hosta Society and presented by Don Rawson. For more information contact Hgold2843@comcast.net

Michigan Bee keepers Association Fall Conference October24-25, 2014, Holiday Inn Gateway Center, 5353 Gateway Centre, Flint, Michigan
For those interested in beekeeping and pollination services, the Michigan Beekeepers Association is putting on their annual Fall Conference Oct. 24-25, 2014. This two-day event features workshops, a trade show, honey-judging contest, and keynote speaker David Hackenberg. Hackenberg is a premier beekeeper, pollinator-health advocate and speaker from Pennsylvania. In addition to having served as the president of the Pennsylvania State Beekeepers Association, the American Beekeeping Federation and as member of the National Honey Board, Hackenberg is the current chairman of the Honey Bee Health Advisory Board.

On both days, Michigan State University Extension specialist Walter Pett and MSU researcher Zachary Huang will be teaching how to identify and manage foul brood. On Friday, Oct. 24, Huang will also demonstrate how bees see differently from other animals and how this affects their pollination behavior.

Folks can pre-register online at a reduced cost or on site at full cost. Having a current 2014 MBA membership reduces the cost as well. Check your membership status and see below for the scale of registration fees.  To pre-register:

Note: Pre-registration will close Wednesday, Oct. 22, 2014.
Registration fees
Pre-Registered
MBA Member, 2-Day:  $20
MBA Member, 1-Day:  $10
Non-Member, 2-Day:  $40
Non-Member, 1-Day:  $20
Spouse/Guest, 2-Day:  $10
Spouse/Guest, 1-Day:  $5
Paid At-the-Door
MBA Member, 2-Day:  $25
MBA Member, 1-Day:  $15
Non-Member, 2-Day: $45
Non-Member, 1-Day:  $25
Spouse/Guest, 2-day:  $15
Spouse/Guest, 1-Day:  $10
Volunteers are always needed and welcomed. Please contact Steve Tilmann, MBA Treasurer, at treasurer@mba-bees.org to volunteer.

Garbage to Garden, October 21, 2014, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. MSU Extension, 21885 Dunham Rd. Ste. 12, Clinton Twp., MI
This program is for community garden leaders and program planners, school garden leaders, urban farmers who are currently composting or would like to compost at their garden site and may be considering expanding to accept additional organic food waste from participating gardeners and local food establishments.
Agenda:
9 a.m.—12 p.m. Mid-scale Composting in your community garden
12—1 p.m. Lunch and Case study—conversations with community garden leaders
1—5 p.m. Michigan Master Composter Train the Trainer

Cost: $75 (includes registration, all materials and lunch)
Contact: Beth Clawson: 269-657-8213 clawsonb@anr.msu.edu or register on line at:
Gardening for Bees & Other Pollinators Fri, October 24, 10-11:30 am 480 S Adams Rd, Meadow Brook Hall, Oakland University, Rochester, MI

Sponsored by Meadow Brook Garden Club. Prof. Rufus Isaacs speaks on the current status of honey & bumble bees. $5 fee.  For more info. Call 2483646210.

Composting with Red Worms, November 6, 2014, 6:30 - 8 p.m. MSU Extension Office, 21885 Dunham Rd., Clinton Twp., MI
 
Macomb MSU Extension is presenting “Composting with Red Worms” on Thursday, November 6, 2014 at the Macomb MSU Extension Office, 21885 Dunham Rd., Clinton Twp., 48036 (Use Entrance E at the rear of the building). Join us from 6:30-8 p.m. for a free presentation on worm composting. Learn how to use worms to compost your food scraps. Master Composter volunteer Sarah DeDonatis will cover everything from the type of worms to use to the construction, care and maintenance of the worm bins.

Contact: Mary Gerstenberger, gerste10@anr.msu.edu, 586-469-6085
Please register in advance by calling 586-469-6440.

Prairie Seed Collecting, Sunday, November 2, 1:00 pm, Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Rd, Dryden, Phone:(810) 796-3200
Come out to our tall grass prairie to learn all about the prairie and its plants while collecting seeds for your own yard or garden. Bring some paper bags and a bucket if you plan on collecting seeds. $3 admission for non-members.

Skeleton Trees, Sunday, November 30, 2:00 pm,  Seven Ponds Nature Center 3854 Crawford Rd, Dryden, Phone:(810) 796-3200

Now that most of the trees are bare let’s see if we can figure out which tree is which during this nature walk. $3 admission for non-members.


Cottage to Commercial: Ingredients for a successful food business- Several locations and dates

Michigan State University Extension and MSU Product Center Educators will conduct four food business planning classes September through November in Berrien, Muskegon, Ingham and Kent County, Michigan locations.

The two-hour session addresses basic food processing, regulatory requirements, business development resources, and related topics. The program targets individuals who are interested in starting a licensed, commercial food business.
The Kent County session is scheduled for 10 a.m. - 12 p.m., Tuesday, Nov. 11, 2014 at Kent County MSU Extension 775 Ball Ave. N.E., Grand Rapids, MI 49503. The fee is $20 per person, and registration is available online through Nov. 4, 2014.

The MSU Product Center helps aspiring entrepreneurs and existing businesses to develop and launch new product and service ideas into food, agriculture, bioenergy and natural resources markets. A statewide network of Innovation Counselors is available to counsel individuals interested in starting related business ventures. Last year the MSU Product Center assisted 647 clients with business planning.

Those who are unable to attend one of the offerings are invited to request counseling with a field- based MSU Product Center innovation counselor at www.productcenter.msu.edu , or by phone at 517-432-8750 This article was published by Michigan State University Extension.

Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! Workshop, Nov. 12. MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office and MSU Extension – Livingston County

Learn how to grow, store and prepare a variety of fresh vegetables by attending one or all of these mid-Michigan workshops.
Posted on August 12, 2014 by Diane Brown, Michigan State University Extension

Home vegetable gardening is once again popular. In addition to vegetables you grow yourself, a bounty of beautiful produce awaits at farmer’s markets and from community supported agriculture (CSAs). But do you know the best varieties to select for your home garden? Do you know how to tell when a vegetable is ready to harvest, or what to look for at the market? How to store them? How to cook them? Get answers to these questions and more during a series of three Grow it! Cook it! Eat it! workshops from Michigan State University Extension designed to help you make the most of fresh garden vegetables. Cost: $20 for one session/$50 for all three.

Nov. 12, 2014, 6-8 p.m. Pumpkins and Their Kin – winter squash and pumpkins Location: MSU Extension Ingham County Lansing Office, 5303 S. Cedar St., Lansing, MI 48911

Register online for these exciting workshops, and save $10 over individual workshop pricing when you register early for all three events. Contact the Ingham County MSU Extension office at 517-676-7207 for more information.


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com