May 27,
2014 Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter
These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis,
unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are
her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations
opinions.
Hi Gardeners
 |
| The lilacs are blooming |
I am sitting here waiting for rain. I was out planting pumpkins last night and
the soil was very dry. The hose doesn't reach where I planted the pumpkins so if it doesn't rain I’ll have to lug a
bucket there. There’s a pretty good
chance of rain this afternoon-evening and we really need it, it’s amazing how
dry it gets in a few hot days.
The lilacs are in full bloom and their scent is competing
with the smell of the Lily of the Valley bouquet by my desk. There’s an article about Lily of the Valley
below. When the lilacs are in full bloom
it usually means it’s safe to plant the tender crops and bring out the
houseplants. I am starting on houseplant
moving this week as a quick look ahead at the weather shows no chance of frost.
Dames Rocket is also blooming. Some people hate this plant, calling it an
invasive plant but I like it. So do the
butterflies and bees and we want to help them. Bees don’t care where the plant came from as
long as they get something they like from it.
Bees also love the comfrey that’s starting to bloom. Even the hummingbirds hover over the tiny
flowers. Now there’s a plant that I am
wishing I never got started here. I do
constant battle with it. It comes up
everywhere and has to be the most invasive plant I have ever known. It’s far more invasive than Dames
Rocket.
I am sad that my most productive apple tree has no flowers
this year- none. Out of my four apple
trees two flowered, two did not. It was
a hard winter and now I know which varieties are the hardiest. Another surprising thing is that my bamboo
isn’t coming back from the roots like it usually does. It may still but I usually see sprouts by
now. I also seem to have lost some of my
older shrub roses, although they may come back too.
I do know one thing, the weeds didn't disappear. The warm weather has produced a bumper crop
of them. I weed constantly and can’t
keep up. Besides comfrey, burdock,
lambsquarters and mallow are my biggest pests.
My potatoes are sprouting nicely and the lettuce is leaping
up. The strawberries have large healthy looking plants with lots of
flowers. Our rhubarb is in full bloom.
Summer is rapidly coming on. The pond is full of tiny
tadpoles which I hope grow into frogs and toads to eat all the mosquitoes. Mosquitoes are bad here this year. Maybe I should stop filling the suet feeders,
which are being emptied once a day, so the birds will catch bugs to feed their
babies.
Plants to look for
There’s still time
to shop for plants and here are some more great ones to look for. I found a Gomphrena ‘Pink Zazzle’ in a local
greenhouse and snatched it up. This
plant is getting a lot of attention this year.
Unlike most gomphrenas its flowers are large – about 3 inches across and
open instead of looking like buttons with a tuft. ‘Pink Zazzles’ flowers are a hot pink and it
blooms through the summer in sun or partial shade. The leaves are covered with tiny white hairs
that give it a frosted appearance.
 |
| Pink Zazzle flower. Photo by Proven winners. |
‘Pink Zazzle’ is a
perennial but it’s only hardy to 40 degrees.
The growers suggest that it can be overwintered inside though, and that
it will bloom in the winter in a sunny window.
It’s generally sold in a six inch pot and costs less than $10.00.
A new sedum on the
market will make you look twice to see if its real, it looks like plastic. Its sedum ‘Sunsparkler Blue Pearl’. It has the bluest leaves of any sedum, strong
stems about 24 inches high holding deep pink flowers and hardy to zone 4.
If you like
lavender you’ll want to try ‘Platinum Blonde’ a lavender whose leaves have a
light yellow edge. It has typical fragrant
lavender blue flowers and is hardy to zone 5.
I like big hostas
and hosta ‘Victory’ is a big one. Its
huge leaves are green with yellow margins.
The American Hosta Growers have already chosen it as the 2015 hosta of
the year. If you like small hosta you’ll
be charmed by hosta ‘Curly Fries’ that grows only 6 inches high. ‘Curly Fries’ is chartreuse green with
unusual narrow leaves that have rippled edges.
It’s hardy to zone 3.
 |
| Petunia Good and Plenty Orange |
I just have to add
one more petunia. ‘Good and Plenty
Orange’ is a large flowered true orange petunia. It has a nice full mounded shape when
mature. I have mine in a brown crock for
some color in one of my beds but I can see it used in a number of ways. I am old enough to remember when petunias
came in mostly purple and blue shades with some white thrown in. Then we got pink and finally red petunias,
now we have yellow, orange, black and green petunias, what’s next?
Watch out for those bulk spices
It’s hardly
surprising when you think of it and one reason I avoid buying bulk spices and
other foods. Researchers tested spices
from bulk displays in Kansas and found them vastly contaminated with everything
from heavy metals to E. coli. If you
ever watched a youngster playing in bulk foods while a parent shopped nearby,
someone sneezing on foods they are choosing, someone feeling or tasting spices
in a bulk display then you understand why these bulk spices (and other foods) may
be contaminated with human pathogens.
Let’s not even think about flies, cockroaches and mice doing their own
feeling and tasting.
But spices sold in
the US, especially those in cheap bulk form, are most often grown in other
countries. Those countries may have few
standards and rules in effect for the spices they export. Researchers found lots of pesticide residue,
heavy metals like lead, paint chips, soil, insect bodies, hair, manure, and
other unidentified particles in the bulk spice samples they tested. Cheap
spices are also commonly adulterated with other plant substances to lower
costs.
These studies were done
in Kansas by Kansas State University but most of these bulk spices are widely
distributed across the US and it has to be assumed that most of them are
equally contaminated. The FDA has recently
completed a study on human pathogens and contaminants found in bulk spices that
you can read here. It’s a large file. http://www.fda.gov/downloads/food/foodscienceresearch/risksafetyassessment/ucm367337.pdf
The FDA found that
spices may be stored for years and in that time go through a number of
facilities and processing steps all of which increase the chances of
contamination. Black pepper, red pepper,
white pepper, paprika, curry powder, turmeric, sesame seed, anise seed, and
fennel seed have all caused outbreaks of food “poisoning” in the last few
years, generally by being contaminated with salmonella. While the spices came from a variety of countries,
China, India, Brazil, and Malaysia and so on, the FDA also believes that some
of the contamination was done in the US in storage and packaging places.
Filth contamination
of spices is very common in all spices and seeds used for cooking and teas. Insect parts are the most common filth
contaminant but the list of crud found in spices is long and unappealing.
The FDA believes
that all spices should be cooked, that is added to food before cooking to make
them safe. Think of that when you are
sprinkling black pepper on the cold potato salad you are making. Ground peppers are some of the worst
offenders when it comes to being contaminated with pathogens.
So what can you do
to make sure the spices you use are safe?
Buy sealed packages of brand name spices to start, not bulk or bargain
spices. Store those packages safely when
you get them home. The refrigerator is
ideal if they are in dry sealed containers.
Otherwise keep them dry, dark and tightly closed. Throw out spices that are opened after 1 year.
Using spices before cooking is better
than using them after cooking as heat destroys most pathogens.
The US produces few
spices except powdered onion and some garlic. (Packaged in the US is not grown
in the US.) But you can grow and dry
many spices yourself such as rosemary, sage, thyme, even anise, poppy, and
sesame seed. Some spices like black
pepper would be hard to grow yourself. I
am wondering if a heat treatment of purchased spices such as in the oven or
microwave would at least kill the pathogens.
You would need to heat them to 160 degrees F. for a few minutes. You may also want to reconsider what spices
you add to food after it’s cooked.
Back to lard
Here’s some more
food news that may make you uncomfortable.
About 50 years ago there was a campaign to move people away from lard
and butter as cooking fats to plant derived oils. The saturated fats were cited as being bad
for your health, particularly your heart.
The oils that replaced them however, may not be as good for us as
originally thought.
A large research
study done by Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine found that
canola, corn and soybean oil caused lung damage and increased the risk of
asthma. They believe that the rise in
asthma cases in the last 40 years or so can be tied directly to the increased
use of these oils.
Corn, soybean and
canola oil contain Vitamin E in the form of gamma-tocopherol. Research in humans and some animal studies
have found that gamma-tocopherol causes lung damage. People in the US have 4 times the level of gamma-tocopherol
in their blood than people from European and Asian countries where other oils
such as olive oil and sunflower seed oil are more common in the diet. These oils contain alpha-tocopherol rather
than gamma-tocopherol, and do not harm the lungs. You can read more of this research here.
People who already
have asthma or reduced lung function should avoid canola, corn and soybean oil.
I know I will now avoid them because of
my lung problems. Olive oil and
sunflower oil are said to be fine. I
don’t know what peanut, safflower or hemp oil have in them but if they don’t
contain gamma-tocopherol they should be safe. Or you could go back to eating
modest amounts of lard and butter which the newest research says aren’t all
that bad when reasonable amounts are consumed.
Another homemade trap – for bedbugs
Last week’s homemade trap for stinkbugs got a lot of
interest so here’s another homemade trap you may be interested in. Bedbugs are not only creepy and painful but
they are extremely difficult and expensive to control. The fine folks at the University of Florida's
Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences have come up with a homemade, inexpensive
bedbug trap that anyone can make. This
will capture bedbugs as they move from daytime hiding places to feed on you as
you sleep. It involves two plastic
containers, some tape and some talc powder.
You place the traps under the legs of beds and other furniture. It’s safe for children and pets and avoids
making your home a soup of toxic chemicals.
You can see a video about the trap and how to make it at http://bit.ly/1vfXPrL.
There are great benefits to this trap and over time it might
totally eliminate a bedbug population, along with some diligence and strict
cleaning procedures. But if you are
already being eaten alive at night you still may want to call in a professional
exterminator.
Lily of the Valley
 |
| Beautiful Lily of the Valley |
Lily of the Valley, Convallaria majalis, is the old
fashioned, sweetly scented but deadly flower often romanticized in song and prose. There are 3 species native to cooler areas of
Europe, Asia and the Appalachian Mountains of the United States. Other names for the plant are Mary’s Tears and
Our Lady’s Tears although this plant cannot be the Lilies of the Valley
mentioned in the bible.
Lily of the Valley has one or two upright, broad oval shaped
leaves that rise from the base of the plant on a sturdy stem. The leaves are dark green, thick, and parallel
veins run from top to bottom. The roots
have small bulb like structures that are called pips. The plant sends out runners just below the
ground that produce new plantlets, all a clone of the original.
In late spring stems of tiny, nodding white bells arise from
the plants base. Each bell has 6 slightly upturned scallops on the bottom edge.
Bees are attracted to the flowers. The flowers are very fragrant and a stand of
Lily of the Valley can perfume the air for a considerable distance.
In earlier times Lily of the Valley was grown for cut
flowers and they still make long lasting, wonderfully fragrant bouquets in
small vases. Lily of the Valley is
popular as a wedding flower but quite expensive when out of season. (They can
be produced in climate controlled greenhouses.)
If there are two different Lilies of the Valley close to
each other and not just clones of one plant the flowers will produce tiny red
berries. Lily of the Valley is
self-infertile- clones cannot pollinate with each other and the original
parent. That doesn’t stop them from completely
filling an area that they like and the plant can be considered invasive in some
spots.
Lily of the Valley Culture
These lovely and fragrant flowers are surprisingly sturdy
and make a great groundcover in shaded or semi-shaded areas. They are hardy to zone 3 at least and like
cold winters with hot summers. Lily of
the Valley likes shaded or semi-shaded locations with sandy, loose, organic
soil that is slightly acidic, but they will grow in a wide variety of soil
types. The plant dies to the ground after
frost and returns each spring from the roots.
Lily of the Valley may be purchased as plants or pips, which
look like root joints or tiny bulbs.
Plant them as soon as they arrive if they are not potted. It can take 2 years before some plants or
pips flower but some will flower the first season. Fall is considered the best time to plant
Lily of the Valley. You will sometimes
see seeds offered but these tend to have a low germination and high failure
rate. Plants and pips are the best way
to start the plant in your garden.
There are light pink and double flowered varieties of Lily
of the Valley and a variety with variegated leaves. These are hard to find and don’t seem to be as
long lived as the common variety. Some
people have found that after a while these varieties seem to revert to plain
white Lily of the Valley.
If summer is dry and hot the Lily of the Valley may die back
or look ragged and limp and not be the prettiest groundcover. Therefore the occasional watering during dry
spells is recommended. A light
application of slow release fertilizer for flowers in early spring will make
the flowers more abundant and larger. Lily of the Valley has few insect pests
or disease problems and deer and rabbits rarely bother them.
Be aware that Lily of the Valley can spread rapidly through
a flower bed and can be difficult to totally remove once they get a start. They are best used as a ground cover in
shaded areas or kept in small patches restricted by mowing or pavement. They will naturalize in wooded areas.
Also be aware that all parts of the Lily of the Valley are poisonous. Care should be used if
they are planted around children’s play areas or pet areas. Pets should not be allowed to drink water
from vases that Lily of the Valley are
displayed in. Berries should be removed if any form because they can attract
children. Don’t use the flowers as
decorations on food.
The plant affects the heart rate and may cause vomiting,
blurred vision, dizziness and collapse.
It can cause death. If any parts of
the plant are eaten it is important to call poison control immediately and seek
medical attention.
Other Uses of Lily of the Valley
Lily of the Valley does have herbal uses but its use should
only be practiced under the care of a skilled, knowledgeable herbalist. It is used as a diuretic and a heart
regulator similar to digitalis.
Perfume is made from the flowers of Lily of the valley. The flowers are steeped in light oil such as
almond oil or in alcohol such as vodka.
This should only be applied externally.
An unusual attribute of Lily of the Valley has recently been
discovered. The sperm of mammals will swim
rapidly toward a component of Lily of the Valley. Sperm can’t smell, as early research thought,
rather the Lily of the Valley alters the calcium content of the fluid around
sperm and imitates progesterone’s effect on sperm. It is being used in research and fertility
studies.
The sweet smell of Lily of the Valley signifies spring to
many people and the plant has good uses as a ground cover for shade. If care is taken with its invasive and poisonous
qualities it can be an excellent landscape perennial.
Take time to smell the flowers- it’s the right time to do
it.
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
More
Information
Growing a variety of
flowering plants helps bees and other beneficial insects
Growing a mixture of annuals, perennials and flowering
trees and shrubs will help bees and other beneficial insects that provide
natural control of plant pests.
Posted on May 20, 2014 by Dave Smitley, Michigan State University Extension, Department
of Entomology
Bees have been in the news this spring. Each week I see
another article about the struggles of bees and beekeepers. Unfortunately, the
challenges for professional beekeepers are being confused with advice for
making our yards and gardens bee-friendly, when in fact there is very little
connection. Professional beekeepers move their colonies to a sequence of
agricultural crops during the spring and summer to provide crop pollination, so
those bees are not usually foraging in our neighborhoods. However, the growing
interest in the bees that frequent our yards and gardens does provide a great opportunity to explain
the benefits of encouraging bees and beneficial insects in the yard and garden.
Plant a diversity of
flowers that bloom all season long
Honey bees, bumble bees and many different species of
smaller native bees are important for pollinating native plants and ornamental
plants in your yard and garden. A healthy population of bees is critical for
pollinating fruits and vegetables in the orchard and garden. The best way to
encourage bees is plant a variety of annual flowers, perennials and flowering
trees and shrubs so that you have a steady progression of flowering plants from
early spring through summer and fall.
Although some annual flowers like marigold, verbena and
salvia are better than others for bees, almost all annuals are visited by bees,
and they bloom all through the growing season. Perennial flowers, like salvia,
any of the mints, coneflowers and daisies, are very good for bees, and some of
them, like hardy mums, are frost-resistant, so they will continue flowering
through late September and October. Flowering trees and shrubs are very good
for bees, too, especially ones that flower in early spring before most annual and
perennial flowers are blooming.
Bee-friendly
plantings will benefit other beneficial insects
Another important benefit of growing flowering plants is
that they provide nectar and pollen for hundreds of species of tiny parasitic
wasps (these don’t sting humans) and predators that help to keep plant-feeding
insects under control. You have probably noticed that trees in woodlots and in
the forest are not usually plagued by hungry insects. That is because of
predators and parasites that naturally keep them under control. Many of these
parasites need pollen or nectar to sustain them in the adult stage when they
are searching for caterpillars, aphids and other plant-feeding insects to
deposit their eggs inside of. Predators also need pollen to supplement their diet
or to sustain them at times when prey is hard to find. So, providing a variety
of flowering plants will help predators and parasites that naturally keep plant
pests under control.
Use as few
insecticides as possible and never spray blooming flowers
Another way to encourage bees and beneficial insects is to
avoid spraying insecticides as much as possible, and never spray blooming
flowers. Spraying insecticides will sometimes cause an outbreak of spider
mites, aphids or other plant pests because you have killed lots of beneficial
insects which tend to be more sensitive to pesticides than the plant-feeding
insects. Even after planting lots of flowers and avoiding pesticides, you may
still see some damage from plant-feeding insects. For caterpillars, products
containing Bacillus thuringensis or B.t. can be used without harming bees and
beneficial insects.
Another bee-friendly option is to use horticultural oil or
an insecticidal soap. They are effective on most soft-bodied insects and can be
used on cool mornings (less than 50 degrees Fahrenheit), after sunset, or at
any time that bees are not present. The soap and oil residue is not harmful to
bees, but spraying them directly is. Soap and oil can cause some plant injury,
especially to open flowers, so do not exceed the rate given on the product
label. In rare cases where a plant needs to be protected against damaging
insects by using a broad-spectrum insecticide, it should be sprayed after the
plant is done blooming.
What about
neonicotinoid insecticides?
As with all insecticides, do not spray neonicotinoids on
flowers. Also, avoid using products containing imidacloprid or clothianidin as
a soil drench around plants that attract bees. Using them as a drench around
the base of wind-pollinated trees and shrubs, such as most evergreens and trees
like oaks and ash, is not likely to harm bees because bees rarely visit
wind-pollinated plants.
What about the pesticides used on flowers, trees and shrubs
sold at garden centers?
Nursery growers and greenhouse growers have been working
closely with Michigan State University on how to grow plants that are safe for
bees and other pollinators. They are following best management practices that
include using alternatives to neonicotinoid insecticides and they avoid
spraying flowers close to when they are shipped to garden centers to make
plants as safe as possible for pollinators.
For more information on identifying and encouraging
pollinators, see the Michigan State University Extension bulletin on “Native
Bees and Their Conservation on Farmland” by Rufus Isaacs and Julianna Tuell
(http://bit.ly/conservBees).
Dr. Smitley’s work is funded in part by MSU‘s AgBioResearch.
Events, classes and
other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that
approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class
or work day will count as credit.
Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or
share? Post them here by emailing me at kimwillis151@gmail.com
New- Wild Edibles
of Early Summer Sunday, June
8, 2:00 pm, Seven Ponds Nature Center, 3854 Crawford
Road, Dryden, MI (810) 796-3200
Today we will forage for early greens
and berries while learning how the early residents utilized the plants growing
around them.
New- What is
Popping in the Ponds?, Sunday, June
29, 2:00 pm Seven Ponds Nature Center, 3854
Crawford Road, Dryden, MI (810) 796-3200
Wetland plants will be blooming and
birds will be singing on our walk to see what is popping.
New-Build a
Hypertufa Leaf Birdbath, Saturday,
July 5, 10:00 am Seven Ponds Nature Center,
3854 Crawford Road, Dryden, MI (810)
796-3200
A hypertufa birdbath nestled into a
garden space will attract a myriad of bird species. In this class we will learn
the process using a real leaf as a mold. Please bring a blanket to cradle your
project on the way home and a bag lunch. Please call to preregister for this
adult (12 and up) class. Fee $15.00 (members $12.00).
New- Rose Show Sat,
June 14, 1-5 pm, Meijer Gardens, Grand
Rapids, MI,
Sponsored by the Grand Valley Rose
Society at Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park. See a variety of rose blooms--hybrid teas,
miniatures, floribundas and old-fashioned types, all locally grown and
carefully prepped for this judged show. Vote for the most fragrant rose and see
lovely rose arrangements. Grand Valley Rose Society members will be available
all weekend to answer your questions and provide growing tips. Anyone can enter
roses in this show--a special section will be reserved for "novice" entries.
Bring your finest roses (along with their names) to Meijer Gardens on Saturday
between 8 am and 10 am. Rose Society members will provide guidance and
encouragement.
New- 24th Annual
Ann Arbor Garden Walk Sat, June
14, 10am-4pm, Ann Arbor, MI,
Winter has been brutal this year, but
Spring has arrived, and that means it will be time for Ann Arbor Farm &
Garden's 24th Annual Ann Arbor Garden Walk on Saturday, June 14th, from 10 am
to 4 pm. We have six unique private gardens lined up in the Ann Arbor Hills
area and one public garden at Arbor Hospice.
Waterfalls and ponds; arbors and
pergolas; hillside plantings; terracing and hardscaping; evergreen borders and
an extensive array of perennials -- all this and more awaits you. Come find the
next idea or inspiration for your own green space!
Proceeds from the 2014 Garden Walk
will benefit two organizations: Leslie Science & Nature Center (LSNC) and
Edible Avalon. At LSNC, Garden Walk funds will support rejuvenation and
expansion of the Center’s landscaping using native grasses, plants, and shrubs.
These native plantings will provide educational and demonstration opportunities
for visitors. Edible Avalon, a non-profit program of Avalon Housing, develops
community gardens tended by residents, along with nutrition and health-related
programs and youth programs focused on local food and sustainable gardening.
Tickets are on sale now; cost is $15
per person. Tickets can be purchased at any of the gardens on the day of the
event, or in advance at these locations: Dixboro General Store, Downtown Home
& Garden, Matthaei Botanical Gardens, Nicola's Books. You can also purchase
tickets online using PayPal through June 4 (a small handling fee is added to
each ticket) For more information and
online tickets www.annarborfarmandgarden.org.
The
Lapeer area Horticulture Society is looking for new members. There are no
education or experience requirements to join; only a love of gardening is
needed. The Horticulture Society meets
the third Monday of each month for socializing, networking and a brief
educational presentation. Next meeting
is at Swoish’s Greenhouse, North Branch, May 19th 6:30 pm. Everyone is invited to join. Dues are only $15 a year. For more information on joining or meeting
locations contact Bev Kobylas at bkobylas@yahoo.com
The
Lapeer Horticultural Society is having a Plant and Yard sale May 31st,
from 8 am to 2 pm at 316 Davis Lake Road, Lapeer.
This yard sale will feature a variety
of garden plants and interesting items for the home and yard. Proceeds benefit the Lapeer Horticulture
Society. The sale is on the north side
of Lapeer, just off M24.
The
3rd Annual Michigan Honey Festival- Saturday, July 12, 2014 10am - 5pm at The Harvey Kern Pavilion in Frankenmuth,
Michigan.
Attend educational seminars and learn
all you need to start beekeeping! Purchase all
your beekeeping supplies from a variety of vendors. Lots of Michigan honey for sale. Learn how to
brew honey beer and mead and attend the many cooking with honey demonstrations. There is a children’s craft area and a
demonstration garden done by Master Gardeners.
Watch a bee beard demonstration.
There will be lots of interesting products to sample and buy made from
honey or bee’s wax.
This year’s festival is all indoors,
so no weather worries. Admission is $5
for adults, children 12 and under free.
More information ? http://www.michiganhoneyfestival.com/contact.html
10th
Heavenly Hosta Sale, Sat, May
31, 9am-2pm, Sunday, June 1, Noon-2pm –First Presbyterian Church 1432
Washtenaw Avenue, Ann Arbor, MI.
Multiple groups will be selling
hostas as a fund raiser. Many varieties available and master gardeners will be on-site.
http://firstpresbyterian.org/
Clarkston
Perennial Plant Exchange Sat, , June 7,
8:30am, Village Parking Lot Clarkston, MI.
Sponsored by the Clarkston Farm &
Garden Club. Bring well rooted, tagged perennials. www.clarkstongarden.org 248-620-2984
Master
Gardener College (open to
public) June 20-21, MSU, East Lansing, MI
This year’s event features exciting
full day tours and hands-on workshops on Friday followed by a delicious dinner
at the University Club in East Lansing. Saturday features two entertaining and
educational keynote speakers, as well as eighteen exciting sessions to choose
from in order to feed your mind with science-based gardening knowledge. And, of course, there will be plenty of buying
opportunities.
Key note speaker Charlie Nardozzi will
speak on Foodscaping...A Growing Revolution
Almost a third of American households now do some kind of food gardening.
While everyone wants to grow their own
food, many are unwilling to give up precious yard space or have their yard,
perceivably, look unruly.
You do not have to be a Master
Gardener to attend. Re-certified MG get a discount. There is a wide variety of
pricing options for this event starting at about $65 for a single workshop to
about $200.00 for the 2 day event.
Please go to http://events.anr.msu.edu/event.cfm?folder=mgcollege14 for more
information and to register.
You must pre-register. Registration
fees are refundable until May 31, 2014, less a $20 cancellation fee. After May
31, refunds are no longer available. For
more information, contact Betsy Braid at 517-884-7081 or braidbet@msu.edu.
Garden
Day August 2, 2014, 8 am – 4:15 pm,
Michigan State University Department of Horticulture, East Lansing Mi.
MSU’s annual garden day is on
Saturday this year. The keynote speaker
is Amy Stewart, author of Wicked Plants,
Flower Confidential, and The Drunken Botanist and other books. Ms Stewart is also the concluding speaker and
you can also stay for a reception after the event where she will discuss the Drunken Botanist. You can choose from a
number of excellent workshops/classes, 1 morning and 1 afternoon session.
Classes include Herbal housekeeping, Best Herbaceous perennials, Creative
Containers, Dividing Perennials, Herbs at Home, Pruning Basics, Gardening in
the Shade, Unusual Trees and Shrubs, Creative Edge, and Going Native.
Cost of the event is $85 until July
22nd , $95 after. Lunch and free parking
included. Additional $39 for evening reception.
Go to hrt.msu.edu/garden-day-2014
for class
descriptions and to register.
2014
MASTER GARDENER ASSOCIATION - GENESEE COUNTY, MICHIGAN GARDEN TOUR – June 22nd
2014.
Celebrate spring by enjoying a stroll
through beautiful gardens in Genesee County's east side. Each site has its own
unique features. The homeowner or a Master Gardener would be delighted to
answer any questions. Although each garden looks very different, all of the
homeowners share the passion of watching their garden grow and expand each
year. Much thought has been put into every loved plant or garden art. The
gardeners believe that the garden is an expression of them. Fortunately for us,
they want to share their masterpiece with us.
Please join us in touring nine
outstanding gardens on Genesee County’s east side Sunday, June 22 10:00AM -
5:00PM.and visit the For-Mar Truck Farm at one of the sites. Mark your calendar
for the easy self-guided tour. The total tour is 16.3 miles with easy access
from I-69 to start at site #1 and I-75 to end at site #10 home. There are no
rules where you start or finish, but the routemoves nicely goingfromnorth to
south or south to nor
Advance tickets will be available on
May 23rd at the MSU Extension office for $10.00, $2.00 for children under 12.
Advance tickets will also be available on May 23rd from the following
merchants:
Bordine Nursery 9100 Torrey Rd, Grand
Blanc - (810) 655-5588
Jenny B’s Garden Party 9063 Clio Rd.
Clio - (810) 687-7742
Piechnik Greenhouse,13172 McCumsey
Road, Clio - (810) 686-9211
Walker Farms & Greenhouse 5253
Atherton Road, Burton (810) 743-0260
Tickets may also be purchased the day
of the tour (Sunday, June 22rd) at any of the garden sites. Site addresses will
be posted on the web page the night before the tour. The photo on the ticket
cover was by a student that won the coloring contest at one of Swartz Creek’s
elementary schools.
Gardens will be open for viewing on
June 22 from 10A – 5P, Rain or Shine.
Visit the web site for driving
directions/questions: http://GCgardentour.weebly.com/
NOTE: Gardens open only on this
specific day and time. PLEASE BE CONSIDERATE!
Accommodations for persons with
disabilities may be requested by calling Jim Harrow, Plant & Pest Hotline
(810) 244-8548 two (2) weeks prior to the event to ensure sufficient time to
make arrangements. Requests received after this date will be met when possible.
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
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reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the
opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or
business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I
love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research
each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a
hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive
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