November 26,2013 Kim's weekly garden newsletter

From Kim Willis

http://www.examiner.com/gardening-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

http://www.examiner.com/country-living-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners

Happy Thanksgiving

So the Old Farmer’s Almanac predicted November would be warmer and wetter than normal.  Hmmn.  Don’t think so.  So the prediction for the rest of the winter is mild and wet- let’s just see.   Last year on Thanksgiving I had in my notes that it was 65 degrees, of course Thanksgiving was a week earlier but still- this whole month has been pretty cold.  And gray- I hate that worse than cold – no sun. 

I am hoping that Thanksgiving Day will have decent weather as I am bringing a cooked turkey down to my mom’s for dinner and we need a safe and speedy trip.  On Thanksgiving Day I will be keeping my eye on the TV or radio station, not for any stupid game, but to see if the comet ISON made it around the sun.  This comet has been streaking toward our solar system since men have been on Earth.  Last year it came close enough to be seen by telescopes, in the last few weeks if you got up just before dawn and the sky was clear you could see it in the east with the naked eye.

Comet ISON has a core of frozen dust and ice only about a mile wide.  However it is trailing a cloud of vapor and dust 500 million miles long and that’s why we can see it. Its orbit will pass very close to the sun on Thursday.  If it passes by the sun intact it will be one of the most spectacular cosmic events ever seen.  In just a few days we will be able to see a beautiful, large and bright comet streaking across the sky both in the early evening and at sunrise. (If we ever get a clear sky.)

However there is worry that the comet will explode and/or burn up, a spectacular  fiery event we won’t be able to see much of from earth, although satellites may catch it, as it is too close to the sun.  In fact there is some concern that is happening today.  Astronomy buffs don’t know what will happen as this scenario has never occurred in our time.  Coverage of the comets journey is supposed to be at this site 

https://plus.google.com/events/c8t7i5dbr1k50oq89giloiqe8rc  on Thursday.  I am far more interested in this cosmic drama than any game involving brain injured jocks.  I just have to convince the rest of the family.

Preparing roses for winter

Most shrub roses that are grown on their own roots will survive winter without any special attention.  They may die back to the ground but return in full glory in the spring.  Tea roses and other grafted roses are another thing entirely, they need some winter protection in cold winter areas. 

Do not fertilize roses after August.  Stop dead-heading, leaving flowers on the plant to produce hips will help the plant stop blooming and prepare for winter.  Clean up all fallen leaves and flower petals around the plants so the debris doesn’t harbor disease and pests for next year.

Wait until the ground freezes before covering or mulching roses, unless a sudden severe cold snap  (temps in the teens) is predicted.  Note: this has already happened this year but it’s still not too late to protect roses.   You can buy Styrofoam rose cones or you can devise your own protection.  A large tomato cage set around the rose and filled with mulch will work, as will stakes and a ring of burlap.  Use shredded leaves, whole oak leaves, straw, or pine needles as mulch. Some people simply mound soil around the plants.  Don’t take the soil from around the plants roots though. If you have a tender climbing rose you may want to carefully remove it from its trellis and lay it on the ground, and then cover the canes with mulch.  Never cover roses with plastic or other things that don’t provide ventilation.

Wooly Bear caterpillars

Every gardener has seen these fuzzy black and rust colored caterpillars, usually in the fall.  They are said to forecast the type of winter we will have by the amount of rust color they wear but that is a folk tale that doesn’t have merit.  Each wooly ( or woolly depending on your regions spelling) caterpillar in the environment will have slightly different coloration and there are several species of Tiger Moths, the adult form of the caterpillar, in most areas and each species may have slightly different caterpillar coloration. The Isabella Tiger moth (Pyrrharctia Isabella) is the most common and is found all the way to the artic.

But the wooly bear caterpillar does have a fascinating life cycle.  The ones we see in the fall may be a second or third generation of Tiger Moths that year but as the cold weather comes the fall generation will prepare to hibernate overwinter- not as a cocoon or pupae as many moths and butterflies do but as a caterpillar in suspended animation.  They are crawling around looking for a layer of leaves or mulch to hide under in the fall.  I had one in my home office for several days so unless a dog ate him he probably found a crack somewhere to hide in.

Once they have a winter home the wooly bear is prepared to freeze.  Its heart almost stops pumping and its body produces an anti-freeze like substance to protect the organs and brain.  The caterpillar can freeze solid and still be alive.  In the spring the wooly caterpillar will thaw and come to life.  He’ll eat leaves for a few days or weeks depending on his size, and then he will turn into a pupae somewhere in litter on the ground.  It will emerge about a month later as a pretty, 2 inch yellow-tan moth with black spots on the wings.  They are pretty indiscriminate feeders and feed on a wide range of vegetation.  The caterpillars rarely do much damage and don’t need control.

The moth only has a few days to mate and produce eggs.  She lays her eggs on a wide variety of trees and other plants including maples, thistles and dandelions.  The tiny wooly caterpillars that hatch use a “balloon” made out of a strand of silk to float from plant to plant at first.  Later they simply crawl from plant to plant.  They go through six changes of skin as they grow to about 2 inches long.  With each change of skin the color will also change.  When they are large and full enough of leaves they will turn into a pupae and start the process over, unless it is cold.

In the Artic it can take several years of freezing and thawing before the wooly caterpillar has enough resources to make a pupae and turn into a moth.  In more southern areas there can be two or three generations of the moth, with the last one surviving through winter.  So when you find the wooly caterpillars as you clean your garden in the spring you can marvel at how the little bugger made it through the winter.

Beer and Brussels sprouts may contain arsenic

A new study looking at arsenic levels in human blood has confirmed that there are other sources for high arsenic levels than arsenic in drinking water or accidental poisoning.  Arsenic is a natural element and some ground water is high in it.  While humans tolerate and may actually need some arsenic, high levels of arsenic can cause a number of serious health problems and result in death.  If you have a well you should have it tested for arsenic but arsenic may also be coming from other areas of your diet.

Brussels sprouts take up and concentrate arsenic in the soil and it binds to sulfur compounds in the vegetables.  People who eat a lot of Brussels sprouts and related vegetables such as broccoli are more likely to have higher than normal arsenic levels in the blood.  (Rice is also the cause of some arsenic in the diet because it concentrates arsenic.)  The research also found that people who eat dark meat fish such as mackerel, tuna and salmon also had higher arsenic levels.  These findings were reported in November 2013 Nutrition Journal.

Recently it was found that people who drink a lot of beer may also have higher arsenic levels in their blood.  It took a while for researchers to figure out why but it was eventually traced to the diatomaceous earth that is used in many breweries to filter beer.  The diatomaceous earth leaches arsenic into the beer. Breweries that used water which also contained arsenic have even higher levels of arsenic in the beer as would be expected.  These results were reported April 7, 2013, at the 245th National Meeting & Exposition of the American Chemical Society.

So to stay healthy which should you give up Brussels sprouts or beer?

Cranberries- can you grow them?

Cranberries (Vaccinium macrocarpon)  are a native plant that has had a big increase in consumption in the last 20 years, taking them from a Thanksgiving treat to a year round health food.  There are European varieties of cranberries but they have a different taste and somewhat different nutritional profile and are called ligonberries.  

Cranberries have compounds in them that inhibit bacterial activity and have long been used to fight urinary tract infections.  These same compounds also inhibit the bacteria that cause ulcers and gum disease.  Cranberries also have antioxidants which reduce the formation of LDL or “bad” cholesterol and this is thought to have a beneficial effect on the cardio-vascular system.   They are also tasty and provide many vitamins, including vitamin C.  Raw cranberries have no fat and only 47 calories per cup.

Cranberries are grown commercially in New Jersey, Massachusetts, Oregon, Washington, Wisconsin, Delaware, Maine, Michigan, New York, Rhode Island and many areas of Canada.  They are also being grown commercially in Chile.  While they are not as easy to grow as other small fruits gardeners in the above states can also grow cranberries if they take some care to provide proper conditions.

Cranberries are low trailing vines that produce daughter plants much like strawberries.  The plants are evergreen and perennial.  Cranberries need moist, peaty, acidic soil, a good winter chill but a fairly long frost free growing period to thrive.  They grow well in zones 2-5 and possibly zone 6.   Contrary to what most ads and other illustrations suggest cranberries do not need to be submerged in water to grow.  In fact the plants will die if submerged for very long. They prefer layers of peat soil and sand that hold some moisture but are not waterlogged.

The reason the cranberries grow in water idea is common is because in some commercial cranberry farms the fields are flooded to harvest the berries.  Cranberries have pockets of air in them and they float.  Fields are submerged, the vines raked and shook and the berries float on the surface.  “Booms” swirl the berries into chutes that drain off the water, leaving the berries behind.  About 90% of the commercial cranberry harvest is done this way and the cranberries are used for juice and canning, or making that Thanksgiving treat, cranberry jelly.

The other 10% of the commercial cranberry harvest is picked dry.  Workers use hand rakes and small “combing” machines to gather the berries.  These berries are used for fresh berries you pick up in the produce department or at farm markets.

If you want to try and grow cranberries you will probably have to grow them in beds modified from your existing soil.  Most people do not have the acidic peat soil needed for good cranberry growth.  You will need a sunny area with an abundant supply of water nearby.  You can make raised beds or even better, sunken beds. Here’s the general idea.

Dig out existing topsoil from your intended bed down to about 8-12 inches. The deeper range is for heavy clay soils. (Or make raised beds about 12 inches deep.)  Beds should be at least 4 feet wide by 8 feet long for a modest harvest.  You can move the topsoil somewhere else or mound it along the sides of the excavated area (or around your raised bed frame).  This makes a nice sunken area to hold water when you irrigate.

 Add 2 inches of coarse sand to the bottom of your bed.  Then fill the bed with 6 inches or so of sphagnum peat, (not “Michigan” peat).  You can also use a mixture of sphagnum peat and shredded bark.  Mix in some slow release acidic fertilizer such as that sold for azaleas or blueberries.  About a ½ pound per 4x8 foot bed will work.  Add about an inch of coarse sand to the top of the bed.

Cranberries can be grown from seed but germination is slow and difficult.  It is better to start with plants.  Cranberries begin fruiting at 3 years of age so the older the plants the better.  Spring planting is best but they can also be fall planted.  Space the plants about 18” apart for less than 3 year old plants, 3 feet apart for mature 3 year old plants. The plants will send out runners to fill in the bed.  Three year old plants will also start some upright growth and it’s on the upright growth that berries will form. 

Keep the bed well watered from planting to harvest.  The soil should feel moist at all times but not have water pooled on top.  Peat holds a lot of water so don’t add water until you feel the planting medium.  It should feel moist down to at least 6 inches. Keep your cranberry bed well weeded as they do not tolerate weed competition well.

After the ground freezes in the fall cranberry plants need heavy mulching. While they are evergreen they tend to dry out and have a lot of winterkill unless covered by deep snow or mulch.  Use straw, shredded leaves, shredded bark, or pine needles and bury the plants.  Remove the mulch in early spring, usually about the time daffodils are blooming.  The plants will be putting out new growth and this is cold sensitive for several weeks.  Keep the mulch nearby to reapply or buy some floating row cover.  If temperatures are predicted to go to freezing or below cover the plants.

After the first year reduce the fertilizer, adding only a small amount, ¼ pound or a cup or so, to a 4 x 8 bed.  Add a little fresh sand to the top of the bed each spring also.  If beds get too crowded with plants some of them can be removed to form other beds or to give to friends.

Cranberries are not self-fertile and they need insects to pollinate them.  Bumblebees are the best pollinator.  The flowers appear in early spring and can be damaged by frost.  Keep some row cover material or old sheets around to cover the bed should frost threaten.

Home gardeners will pick cranberries by hand in the fall.  The berries are ripe when they are deep red and the seeds inside are dark brown.   A hard frost will ruin the berries so pick them before it happens.   The berries will store in the refrigerator in a sealed container for about 2 months.  You can also can them, turn them into jellies and sauces or freeze them.

Live Christmas Trees

If you are intending to buy a live tree for Christmas to plant outside after the holiday, dig the hole outside before the ground freezes.  If the ground appears to be frozen already, look for a spot by the house or under a deep layer of leaves or some other spot where you can find softer soil.  The tree can be left in a pot or burlap ball and be put in these spots even if you don’t want to plant it there.  Trees do better outside than being held indoors.  You can remove the pot or burlap and move the tree to its planting spot in early spring. 

 If you haven’t purchased the tree yet and don’t know how to size it, just make a good sized hole and save all the soil you removed in buckets or on a tarp.  Fill the hole with straw or leaves and cover it with something to keep rain and snow out.   Hopefully you won’t have to shovel snow away to plant the tree.

Choose smaller trees for best results and don’t bring them inside until a few days before Christmas.  Keep them watered while they wait.   When inside keep them in the coolest place possible and away from fireplaces and heating vents.   Decorate lightly and if you must use lights, use tiny, cool burning lights sparingly. 

Keep the root ball or pot moist and take the tree outside to plant immediately after Christmas.  Uncover your hole and remove any straw or leaves. Remove the pot, any burlap or strings and wire before planting (if you are planting the tree in its permanent spot).  Settle the tree in the hole and fill with the soil you removed.  If you are leaving the tree in a pot or burlap until spring, put it in the hole and cover the pot or ball with some soil and a deep layer of straw or leaves.  Water deeply with warm water and as long as the soil remains unfrozen, water weekly.  In a windy location these new evergreens may need to be staked until they establish new roots.

Have a Happy, healthy Thanksgiving

Kim

Garden as though you will live forever. William Kent

November 19, 2013 Kim's Weekly Garden Newsletter

November 19, 2013 - Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

From Kim Willis

http://www.examiner.com/gardening-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

http://www.examiner.com/country-living-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners

Zinna seed can be planted in the fall.

I am hoping that all of you have your power back on today.  The gales of November were really harsh Sunday.  The air pressure dropped to one of the lowest readings recorded in this area and that’s never a good sign. It was like we were in a hurricane.   I would hate to have been a hunter in a tent Sunday night.  There is some really cold weather ahead this week so be prepared. 

We didn’t lose any large trees but I know some people did.  I’ve included an article from MSU on tree damage at the bottom of the newsletter.  If you need to trim oaks, because of storm damage or because they need pruning now is the time to do it.

The typhoon in the Philippines and our recent storm are reminders to always have emergency supplies and plans.   When there is a natural disaster it can be days or weeks before help can reach you.  Make sure you store water and food, have flashlights and batteries and perhaps a source of heat that doesn’t require electricity.  Talk with your family about what to do in various emergency situations that might affect you.   If you commute long distances make sure you have emergency supplies in your car including warm clothes as Michigan emergencies often involve snow and cold weather.

Keep an ear on the radio for weather related announcements.  If high winds or storms are predicted and you have a well you’ll want to run some water for you and pets and livestock in case power goes out.  Charge up your cell phones and other battery powered devices you may need.  Make sure the car has gas in case you need it for warmth or charging things. 

Here are some tips.  Solar lights outside can be brought inside for light and put back out to re-charge if needed.  Your hot water heater tank can be used as a source of emergency water if needed.  There is a drain valve that will let you run off water by gravity.  Make sure to turn it off before draining water off.  If power returns and it doesn’t fill up quickly it could burn out.  If you have a propane or gas stove the oven typically doesn’t work in a power outage but the burners do if lit by a match.   You can boil water to help heat a room, put some marbles or rocks at the bottom of pots to alert you when the pot is almost empty so you don’t ruin the pot or start a fire.

If you have a land line phone keep a cheap corded phone on hand to plug in a wall jack because cordless phones don’t work without electricity.  Cell phone service goes out in some emergencies also.  When there is an emergency turn off your cell phone and limit its use so unnecessary calls don’t run the battery down.

Let’s switch to happier topics. 

Sowing flower seeds in the fall

You may think the planting season is over but there are some common garden flowers that drop their seeds in the fall.  Those seeds need a period of cold to germinate and may need the freezing and thawing cycle to crack a hard seed coat and allow moisture in for germination.  You may have some of the garden plants that require these conditions in your garden and they will self- seed for you if left alone.  If you don’t have the plants and want them in your garden now may be the time, before the ground freezes solid, to sow some of those seeds.

Seeds that can be sown in the fall include: Bachelor's Button, Coreopsis, Cosmos, Echinacea, Flax, Larkspur, Moss Rose, Marigolds, Morning glory, Nasturtium, Pansy, Poppy, Strawflower, Sweet pea, Verbena and Zinnia.  Buy the seeds or collect dry seeds from friend’s plants.  Some of these may also be planted in early spring.  Some wildflower and grass seed may also be suggested for fall planting.  Check the label, plant description or a reference.  Chances are if nature drops the seed in late fall it likes fall planting.

Clear a spot in the garden of vegetation and loosen the soil.  Sprinkle the seeds over the area. You may want to sprinkle them thickly as some will not germinate.  You can thin in the spring.  Very small seeds like poppy seed should not be covered but press them against the soil.  Larger seeds like morning glory seed should have a loose layer of soil about a half inch thick placed over them.  Don’t water the seeds.  Nature should take care of that for you. 

You can apply a very thin layer of mulch such as pine needles or chopped straw but don’t use leaves or anything that mats over the seeds and don’t make the mulch deeper than a half inch.  Make sure to mark the spots where you sow the seeds.  Some may wait until warmer weather to emerge so don’t be in a big hurry in the spring to plant over them, thinking they didn’t sprout.  If you have trouble with birds pecking at your seeds cover the area with netting.

It’s not too late to plant the seeds until the ground freezes solid.  After all nature will still be dropping them, even after the snow falls in some cases. 

Dandelion rubber

The extremely helpful dandelion.

Most of you have seen the white milky sap that oozes from a dandelion stem when you break it.  That sap contains latex. The roots have even more sap.   Since WWII researchers have known that rubber can be made from dandelion sap collected from dandelion roots and it was even manufactured in small quantities during the war when it was hard to get traditional rubber. 

After the war when rubber was available again and when a synthetic rubber was developed, making rubber from dandelions and other native plants seemed to be less important.  But recent developments in the rubber trade have turned researchers back to other sources of natural rubber and dandelions have become the top choice for that research.   

Natural rubber has many advantages over synthetic rubber and is preferred for things like car tires.  Traditionally it has been harvested from rubber trees on plantations in South America and South East Asia.  The trees take several years to grow to a size where they can be tapped, and they require care and attention throughout their lifespan.  To get rubber you tap trees and let the sap flow, then collect it, a labor intensive project.  A fungal disease threatens rubber trees and has decreased production in many parts of the world where rubber is grown.  And rubber tree farmers are turning rubber tree farms into palm oil production or other less labor intensive and more profitable agricultural enterprises.

Because the writing was on the wall so to speak, and natural rubber shortages are becoming common, several research projects turned to developing other sources of natural rubber.   Two research centers collaborating with manufacturing partners have made great strides in producing rubber from dandelions.   One is the Fraunhofer Institute for Molecular Biology and Applied Ecology and Continental Manufacturing in Germany and the other is Ohio Agricultural Research and Development Center in Wooster, Ohio, working with Bridgestone Corp. and Ford Motor Co.

In Germany a manufacturing facility began large scale production of rubber from dandelions in October of this year.  They hope to have dandelion rubber tires on the commercial market within five years.  Besides tires the rubber will be used in many other applications that traditional rubber and latex are used for, such as latex gloves.

The dandelions being used were bred from a Russian species of dandelion, (Taraxacum kok-saghyz).  It differs slightly in appearance from the common dandelion in that the leaves are smaller, narrower and more grayish in appearance than common dandelion s and there are tiny projections on the leaf bracts that cover a dandelion flower bud.  The roots of this species had more latex present naturally. 

Researchers used good old fashioned plant breeding by selection methods enhanced by being able to identify genes in selected plants that had desirable traits like more latex and thicker roots to produce new strains of dandelions.  They have now developed dandelion varieties that are highly productive but have not been “genetically modified”, which is important for European markets.  These varieties are being grown both in greenhouses and in huge fields outside for dandelion rubber production.

Dandelions can grow in temperate climates close to rubber manufacturing plants cutting down on transportation costs.  They can be grown and harvested in one year, using mechanical harvesting equipment and the plants don’t require care after the harvest.  Dandelions have few disease or insect pests and as most gardeners know, they grow quite well almost anywhere.   

Dandelion rubber used in things like latex gloves does not cause allergic reactions in people like traditional latex does.  And it is thought that by-products of dandelion rubber production can become another source of bio-fuel.  Replacing synthetic rubber and latex made from petroleum products with natural dandelion rubber also cuts down on fossil fuel use.  And farmers in America and Europe will have another profitable crop to grow, one that requires little fertilizer or pesticide use.  Dandelions, despite being hated by lawn lovers, have always been useful plants to have around.  Now it seems they have become even more valuable. 

Don’t cook your blueberries

Scientists recently released research results that suggest that eating 2 cups of wild blueberries every day for 8 weeks may improve blood pressure, enhance cardio-vascular health and reduce metabolic syndrome- which frequently becomes type 2 diabetes.  (The journal Applied Physiology, Nutrition, and Metabolism Nov. 6, 2013)  But if you were thinking about consuming those blueberries in muffins or pie better think again.

Researchers have found that cooking blueberries removes a lot of their health benefits.  Blueberries contain the healthy polyphenols, anthocyanin, procyanidin, quercetin and phenolic acids.  Cooking blueberries decreases most of the healthy polyphenols with the exception of phenolic acids.  Blueberry foods made with yeast had less loss of polyphenols.  (ACS' Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry)  So if you are using blueberries for their health benefits eat them raw. 

Rosemary- and spearmint- for remembrance

There is an ancient saying- Rosemary for remembrance – and other research studies in the past have confirmed that even smelling rosemary aids in memory.  But a new study using concentrated rosemary extracts found that when consumed the extracts helped with memory loss and cognitive function in age related decline.  The studies were done in animals but human trials begin soon. 

Researchers at Saint Louis University School of Medicine found that both rosemary and spearmint extracts given to animals reduced changes in their brains linked to loss of memory and cognitive disorders.  They also tested animal’s memory and learning abilities and found animals given the extracts did better than a control group.  Rosemary had somewhat greater effects.   

Rosemary plant with flower.

Research still needs to be done to see if consuming rosemary and spearmint as we do now in cooking is beneficial but all signs seem to point to at least some benefit.  It can’t help to sprinkle a little rosemary on your bread as it bakes or on your roasting chicken.  And a mint julep might help the memory also, as long as you don’t over indulge.

Some vegetable oils may not be good for you

The news is all about reducing trans-fat in the diet and the recommendations on how to do that often include replacing it with vegetable oil.  But the Canadian Medical Association is citing a study done in February that found when saturated fat was replaced by corn or safflower oil the risk of death from coronary artery disease and other cardiovascular diseases rose significantly.

Both corn oil and safflower oil do not contain omega-3 α-linolenic acid, which is associated with cardiovascular health even though they do contain omega-6 linoleic acid.  Most other vegetable oils contain both.   That suggests that replacing trans-fat or saturated fat with some vegetable oils may not be better for you.  The Canadian Medical Association is asking the Canadian government not to allow a heart healthy label on corn oil and safflower oil.  If you are afraid of butter choose your vegetable oil carefully.

Can a Japanese pickle prevent the flu?

In Japanese folklore eating Suguki, a fermented turnip pickle, is said to prevent colds and flu.  Now researchers have found that there may be some truth to the claim and a bacteria produced by those pickles may become very important in modern medicine. 

Fermenting turnips produces bacteria called Lactobacillus brevis.  When this bacteria was isolated and fed to animals in a pro-biotic drink, it prevented them from catching a H1N1 flu virus and boosted their immune system response.  This bacteria is very resistant to stomach acid and produces a layer of sugars called exopolysaccharides.  Exopolysaccharides are also found in other things and are known to boost the immune system. 

Human trials are beginning in Japan with the pro-biotic drink made from the bacteria and there’s hope that it may be the answer to many of the deadly flu virus strains that keep emerging.  In the meantime if you don’t want a flu shot you may want to consider looking for some Suguki.

Throw a log on the fire and have some cocoa.

Kim

Garden as though you will live forever. William Kent

Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter November 12, 2013

November 12, 2013 - Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

http://www.examiner.com/gardening-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

http://www.examiner.com/country-living-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

/

These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

Hi Gardeners

Well we have had our first snow fall.  I had a light coating anyway on the grass. And I just looked out the window and it’s snowing again.  Too early if you ask me.  It got very cold last night and I think the flowers will finally be done for.  If you had to drive last night or early this morning I feel sorry for you- it was icy and people never know how to drive at the first time we get snow.   It is supposed to warm into the 50’s by the weekend so maybe that will be the last of the snow for a while. 

I planted some heather this spring and it bloomed beautifully then.  Walking around the yard this weekend I noticed that one of the heathers was in bloom again.  Also still in bloom was the verbena variety Lanai Twister Pink.  It bloomed prolifically all summer and was still in bloom Sunday.  Most of the fall color was gone but the barberry I planted in front of my chicken run was almost electric in color – red and orange.

I have been thinking about what did well for me this year in the flower and vegetable gardens.  I planted two new knock out roses this spring – double pink and “Sunny” and both were outstanding bloomers.  The cuphea, “Firecracker” was outstanding.  I have brought it inside for the winter.  The dahlia Gloria Van Heemstede was just so prolific in bloom, early to start blooming too, and the color was so sunny yellow that I highly recommend it.  It’s an heirloom so you won’t find it just anywhere.  I got mine from Old House Gardens.

I was not impressed by the tomato Tigerella, but I am still wondering if I got what the tag said it was.  Despite other melons and pumpkins having a banner year the melon “Fairy” did not do well for me.   I’ll review some other things later on and if you have a plant that you liked or didn’t like this year why don’t you send me a note about it and I’ll pass on your observations.

New onion won’t make you cry and may help you lose weight

I love onions cooked and raw.  And onions are really good for us, having anti-inflammatory  properties and keeping blood from clotting in your arteries.  But I hate peeling and chopping onions because of all the crying involved.  I have tried every trick from holding food in my mouth, peeling under water, and getting the onion cold before cutting.  Sometimes I cry anyway.  It’s not just the tears streaming down, it’s actually very irritating to the eyes.

Scientists in New Zealand have finally produced an onion that doesn’t have the protein that causes eye irritation.  In 2008 scientists identified the protein that causes the eye irritation when onions are cut.  Once the protein was identified they worked to develop a gene “silencer”, a way to turn off that gene but leave the health properties and taste of the onion intact.

They were surprised to find that in the making of this onion that the genetic changes also improved the onions ability to bust clots and ease inflammation more than unmodified onions and even garlic.  The taste was just like regular onions and it can be cooked and used just like any other onion. Since this onion has better cardiovascular benefits than garlic it may be helpful to people who don’t like to take garlic capsules because of the body odor it causes in people who consume it.

Then scientists fed the tearless onion to rats and found that compared to control groups of rats who got regular onions or no onions that rats fed the new onion gained less weight on the same diet.  They appeared just as healthy as control groups, even healthier because they developed fewer cardiovascular problems.   Study results were published in last month’s Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry.

The new onion isn’t on the market yet.  Because it has technically been genetically modified it has to be approved by the FDA before it can be sold here.   I don’t see why it won’t be on the market in a few years though, and I for one would love to try it.

New Jersey tea cultivar

Last week I talked about native shrubs and mentioned New Jersey Tea would make a great plant to experiment with to make a better landscape plant.  Well it turns out Proven Winners and Monrovia are offering a new cultivar. Marie Bleu™ (Ceanothus x pallidus) is a hybrid of 3 native Ceanothus species.  It has a profusion of lilac blue flowers in early summer that are very attractive to bees and butterflies.  The flowers turn into red seed heads that add late summer and fall color. 

Marie Bleu™ is slightly less hardy than our eastern New Jersey Tea- rated hardy to zone 6.  It makes a compact dense shrub 2-3 feet tall.  It can be trimmed to shape after blooming.  It will grow in full sun to partial shade and withstands dry conditions.  Marie Bleu™ makes an excellent filler plant for borders or even containers and looks great in massed form.  Both Monrovia and Proven Winners are wholesalers; you’ll have to check local nurseries and online sources to buy the plant.

Earthworms are an invasive species reshaping the landscape

You may have never seen an Ovenbird, a sparrow sized warbler that used to be common in Northeastern forests.  And most of us who are of a certain age remember when forest floors generally had drifts of trillium, sarsaparilla and Solomon’s seal.   Deer are responsible for some loss of vegetation but studies at several Northeastern and Midwest Universities have found another culprit – the earthworm.

Earthworms are not native to North America.  They were brought here from Europe and Asia, all 16 species of them.  They arrived with the first farmers and slowly spread across the country.  Two species night crawlers (Lumbricus terrestris) and redworms,( Lumbricus rubellus) are mostly responsible for making  drastic changes in forest ecology across the country and may even be responsible for  increasing global warming .

Before the arrival of earthworms deciduous forests in the northern and eastern states always had a deep “duff” layer of leaves and other slowly decaying vegetation.   The decomposition of the duff was done by various species of fungus.  The deep fluffy forest duff was the nesting spot for birds like the ovenbird and home to salamanders, frogs, and other reptiles and amphibians.   Many forest understory  plants germinated their seeds in the duff and it protected their crowns in the winter.  The forest duff was a rich and diverse community of small organisms like insects and snails which were eaten by larger things like reptiles, mice and birds, which in turn were fed upon by even larger creatures.  Then in some forests earthworms arrived.

As most gardeners know earthworms quickly eat vegetation that falls to the ground.  In agricultural setting earthworms are beneficial, breaking down compost, aerating the soil and enriching it with their droppings.  But when the forest duff quickly disappears so does the community of plants and animals that depended on it.    The forest landscape has changed forever, since it’s almost impossible to rid an area of worms once they arrive.

Trees sequester carbon in their wood and leaves.  When those leaves remain on the forest floor for a long time so does the carbon, keeping it out of our atmosphere.  Worms, in the process of eating and digesting the leaves, release carbon into the air.  Since they also pull leaves underground before eating them and cause the soil to form aggregates that do trap carbon, researchers aren’t sure how great the loss of carbon sequestration is.   Research is ongoing in the northern forests of Minnesota, Wisconsin, Vermont and other places where there are still some places free of earthworms to compare with places that have worms.

Earthworms have caused the decline of Ovenbirds (and perhaps other birds), many species of salamanders and other reptiles and amphibians as well as several species of plants, including sugar maples, which like the forest duff to germinate and grow in.  Some state and national forest areas prohibit the use of worms as fish bait or bringing any potted plants into these areas in an effort to exclude earthworms. 

Any forest that has regenerated from farmed land has earthworms in the soil.  Because earthworm eggs can be transported in the treads of boots and machinery even areas that were never farmed or gardened often get earthworms.  When people move close to old growth forests and bring in plants for the landscape or start a garden they almost always contaminate the soil with worms.   We probably have to accept that the forest ecology that existed before European farmers arrived in North America will probably cease to exist at some point.   The lowly earthworm  has forever changed the land.

Antelopes use overpasses

Wouldn’t it be great if the deer had a way to cross the road without endangering people?  Well in Wyoming antelope have learned to cross highways on overpasses and tunnels. The Wildlife Conservation Society and the Wyoming Department of Transportation collaborated on constructing 8 safe crossing places for antelope on Wyoming highways last year.  High fences along the roads funnel the animals to safe crossing at overpasses or tunnels.

In fall 2012 the antelope used the safe crossings somewhat suspiciously and reluctantly but this year it seems they had accepted them and used them readily. The Wildlife Conservation Society helped find the places where antelope had established crossing sites and both the WCS and Wyoming DOT were pleased with the great reduction in car-antelope crashes.  Now the antelope are a little different than Michigan’s whitetail deer in that they move from summer grounds to winter grounds in large migrating herds over established routes.  But whitetails also have preferred routes to cross roads.  Putting up a deer crossing sign helps somewhat if motorists pay attention but maybe Michigan should consider overpasses or tunnels at sites with high numbers of deer-car crashes, especially along expressways. 

Deer and other large herd animals will follow paths that others of their species use and teach the safe passage way to their young.  Of course this would not solve all the deer-car crash problems because there are too many roads and too many deer but it might help in areas where colliding with a deer is more likely to cause death to a driver such as on freeways.  It probably won’t happen though because of one major factor- money.  Some of these people who cry over hunters killing deer and get angry at humans who hit deer with their cars should get together and fund a few safe crossings.

verbena Lanai Twister

Another citizen science project you can get involved in

At the University of Oklahoma researchers are studying soil microbes to find “natural products” molecules made by the microbes such as fungi that can be used to make drugs and therapies to cure diseases.   One such compound, maximiscin, has already been found that is produced by soil microbes from Alaska and has shown promise in curing melanoma, a common cancer. 

Researchers believe that there are thousands if not millions of such microbe produced natural products in soil.  Soil microbes are often specific to certain areas, even only a few miles apart.  Your backyard or special spot may have the soil microbes that can produce a substance that will cure a disease or produce an astounding scientific advance.   If only the researchers could sample soil from everywhere!   Well maybe they can, with your help.

The University of Oklahoma has launched a citizen science project to collect soil from across the country.  You can download a form here http://npdg.ou.edu/citizenscience to register to help.  You can also email NPDG@ou.edu with your name and mailing address or call them at (405) 325-2219 to request a kit. You will be sent a postage paid soil collection box and instructions and then can mail a soil sample to the researchers.  They’ll acknowledge your sample and you’ll then be able to track the research on their website.  You can do this as an individual or it makes an excellent school, 4-H or cub/girl scout project.

Watch out for deer!

Kim

Garden as though you will live forever. William Kent

More Information

Over wintering tender bulbs

By Kim Willis- previously published on Examiner.com

If you haven’t done it already it’s time to get out there and dig up the tender bulbs before another Michigan winter hits.  Even though we have had some frost and freezing weather if the ground isn’t frozen most of those bulbs can be saved until spring and then replanted to bloom again.  Tender bulbs include dahlias, cannas, calla lilies, pineapple lilies, tuberous begonias, gladiolus and others. 

If you are lucky, you’ll find your bulbs have multiplied and you’ll have more bulbs to plant next year or share with friends.  But first you need to get them safely through the winter.  Different types of bulbs require different care.  Here’s some tips on how to keep them from drying up or molding in storage.

Tuberous begonias, callas, rain lilies and pineapple lilies

Pineapple lilies (Eucomis),callas, rain lilies and tuberous begonias do best if they are put in pots and sunk in the ground in the spring.  Then after the foliage dies but before a hard freeze, the whole pot should be lifted and brought inside. If the bulbs were planted in the ground carefully dig them and plant them in pots of good potting soil.  Don’t cut foliage off, let it die naturally.  Store pots in a just above freezing location in either a dark or dimly lit location.   Check the pots from time to time and add a little water if they feel dry. 

Tuberous begonias in pots can also be brought inside before a frost, while still in bloom and in a bright window they will bloom for a few more months.   After Thanksgiving however they should be encouraged to go dormant and rest by withholding water and putting the pot in a cold but above freezing spot.

Some cane type- angel wing type begonias also go through a dormant period.  Treat them like tuberous begonias.

About March the pots should be brought into a warmer, sunny location and regular watering resumed once the foliage begins growing again.   Fertilize at half strength.  You can divide and repot them once shoots are showing if desired.  Place outside after danger of frost has passed.

Cannas and dahlias

Dahlias are one of the harder bulbs to over winter successfully although they often multiply tremendously. Cannas are a bit easier, they don’t seem to dry out as easily.  When frost has killed the tops but before the ground freezes carefully dig cannas and dahlias.   Try not to cut through tubers or break them off.  Trim off any dead foliage but be careful not to cut the main stem too close at this point.  Leave the clump together and divide in spring if possible. 

Place the clump in a paper bag or open bucket and cover with lightly moistened sphagnum peat, coarse sawdust, or wood shavings. Store the containers in a cool dark location where they won’t freeze.  Make it a point to check the dahlia and canna bulbs each month and moisten the medium they are stored in if they look like they are shriveling.  If mold is seen, remove them from the medium they were stored in and replace it with drier medium. 

If you planted the cannas or dahlias in pots they can be brought inside in the pots and stored over winter.  Wait until frost has killed the foliage but don’t let the pots freeze solid.  Trim off dead foliage and store the pots in a cool dark place.  Water lightly if the soil gets very dry.  This is a good way to store very rare or valuable dahlias and cannas.   In spring threat the pots like those of begonias and rain lilies above.  You can divide them then if desired.

In late March the dahlias can be taken out and examined.  Leave them in a bright area for a week or so and see if you can see tiny buds, which generally look reddish, around the old stem.   You can carefully cut apart the clumps near the top, making sure each group of tubers has at least one bud from the stem area.  Plant the tuber clusters in good potting soil and get them started growing in a sunny warm area.  Plant outside after frost.

Cannas will generally be showing buds on tubers around late March also.  You can set them in a bright area with tops of the tubers exposed and buds will become more visible.  Each tuber that has a bud can become another plant.  Pot them in good potting soil to get an early start on blooming.   Put outside after any frost danger has passed.

Gladiolus

Gladiolus corms are fairly easy to over winter.  Anytime after the tops have died back but before frost they should be dug up.  They cling tightly to their old stems; don’t break off the stems, carefully cut them off to avoid damage to the older, main corm (bulb). 

You will generally find one large firm looking glad corm with a shriveled corm below it and sometimes dozens of tiny corms or several medium sized one.  These smaller corms can be saved and will bloom in a few years.  The shriveled corm on the base of the large corm can be carefully removed and discarded.

Let the corms sit in a sunny place where they can’t freeze for a few days to cure them.  Then gently brush off dirt and store them in a bag of wood shavings.  It’s best to sort out the small corms so they can be planted in pots or a nursery bed in the spring.  Store the corms in a dark, dry place until spring.  They can be started inside, but most are planted directly in the ground after frost has passed.

Make sure all your bulbs are stored where mice and other critters can’t make a meal of them.  Metal trash cans can be a good option for bulbs that aren’t left in pots.

Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter, November 5, 2013

November  5, 2013 - Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

http://www.examiner.com/gardening-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

http://www.examiner.com/country-living-in-detroit/kimberley-willis

These weekly garden notes are written by Kim Willis, unless another author is noted, and the opinions expressed in these notes are her opinions and do not represent any other individual, group or organizations opinions.

 November comes and November goes,

With the last red berries and the first white snows.

With night coming early and dawn coming late,

And ice in the bucket and frost by the gate.

The fires burn and the kettles sing,

And earth sinks to rest until next spring."

- Elizabeth Coatsworth

Hi Gardeners

I think of November as the month of no’s, no sun, no warmth, no leaves, no flowers, no butterflies, no bees, no beauty and no fun.  It’s a blah month much like February and one of my least favorites.  And this November is certainly starting out with no sun.  At least we have had some good moisture for the plants going into winter.

I will admit I still have some flowers blooming outside.  There are snapdragons, violas, verbenas, garden mums and even a few blooms on the landscape roses.  And the geraniums are blooming their heads off inside.  I even have a few blooms on the kangaroo paws I brought inside and on the streptocarpus.

I still have to dig some glads and dahlias, although I have gotten some of the bulbs inside, the ones I left in pots.  And I still have apples to pick and Jerusalem artichokes to harvest.  If any of you want some Jerusalem artichokes let me know.

I’m not much for cutting everything down in the perennial beds in the fall although there is some cleanup I would still like to do.  I like to hold off the major cleanup for those nice days in spring when it’s too early to plant but you really want to do something in the garden.  There’s debate among gardeners about garden cleanup.  It probably does help with disease and insect control to some extent but leaving stems and leaves also helps insulate plant crowns and trap snow.  Leaving flower heads with seeds is good for the birds and can provide some winter interest.  I guess each gardener has to decide on their own about fall cleanup.  You should clean up apples and other fallen fruit to deter insects and diseases overwintering though.

Do get those young deciduous trees protected from varmints before snow falls.  Surround trunks with wire cages or tree tubes up to at least 3 feet high.  Deer, rabbits and voles call kill trees and shrubs by gnawing on the trunks in winter.

Viola

Remember to slow down on watering houseplants this time of year or at least check them before watering.  As the days get shorter they use less water- unless they are right over a furnace vent.  And don’t fertilize them at this time of year, they don’t need it and it contributes to salt build up in the potting soil.

November almanac

November's full moon on November 17, is called the Beaver Moon, or the Full Frost Moon by Native Americans.  In Europe November is known as the 'wind month' and the 'blood month'.  It was the traditional month for butchering, hence the blood moon.  Unfortunately the full moon will spoil the viewing of the Leonids meteor shower at its peak.

November is named for the Latin word for nine as it was the ninth month of the Roman calendar.  In ancient times it was also called the month of the dead.  The flower for this month is the chrysanthemum and the birthstone is topaz.  Good days for harvesting above ground crops are the 15^th and 16^th, and for harvesting below ground crops the best days are the 25^th through 27^th.

In England November 5- today- is known as Guy Fawkes Day, or Bonfire night.  It originally celebrated to commemorate what was known as the gunpowder revolution but has become known as a day to burn effigies or pictures of hated people and things.  If you have an anger issue tonight may be your chance to burn some anger.

It’s Native American Heritage month.   November 11 is  Veterans day- November 13 is National Indian Pudding Day and Sadie Hawkins day, November 17 is World Peace day and Homemade bread day, November 23 is National Cashew Day,  the Great American Smokeout is the 21^st  and the 28^th is Thanksgiving .

Native shrubs

Native plants are a hot trend in gardens and in landscaping.  They are ecologically sound choices and often require less care than other landscape and garden plants.  The problem is that they are often hard to find as some are hard to propagate in nurseries or to hold for sale.  Some species that might do well in the landscape are just not well known enough for people to seek them out.  Researchers Julia Cartabiano and Jessica Lubell from the Department of Plant Science and Landscape Architecture at the University of Connecticut have been searching for native shrubs that are good candidates for landscape material and that can be profitably grown by nurseries.

The shrubs Ceanothus americanus,( New Jersey Tea) Corylus cornuta,( Beaked Hazelnut) Lonicera canadensis,( American Fly Honeysuckle) and Viburnum acerifolium( Maple leaf viburnum) were the choices  the researchers reported on in the August issue of HortScience.   The researchers thought all four species would be good landscape plants but that the Beaked Hazelnut and Mapleleaf viburnum would be the easiest to propagate. 

The Beaked Hazelnut is a rounded large shrub, 12-25 feet in height.  The leaves are thick ovals with toothed edges and a hairy underside.  The plant produces catkins in the fall that persist through winter and are pollinated in the spring.  Each seed is a small nut enclosed in a tough husk with a point, the beak.  The nuts are edible and were eaten by Native Americans but the husk is covered with fine hairs that can irritate the skin of those who are removing them to get the nut.  There is also a hard shell around the nut which must be removed.

Squirrels and some birds like Jays eat the nuts.  Native Americans used the stems of Beaked Hazelnut for basket weaving.  The plant prefers sandy loam, well- drained soil and does not do well in clay soil or wet areas.  It prefers full sun to light shade.  It can be propagated by planting the nuts or rooting cuttings.

Mapleleaf viburnum is an attractive smaller shrub 3-6 feet in height.  The leaves are lobed like a maple leaf with serrated edges.  In spring small clusters of pretty white flowers turn into attractive red or purple berries that can persist through winter if not eaten.  Birds eat the berries as well as some small animals.   The flowers attract butterflies and the plant is a larval host to the Spring Azure butterfly.

 

The Mapleleaf viburnum berries are not considered edible for humans but Native Americans used the berries to make several medicinal concoctions for cramps and colic and as a diuretic.  The plant is useful in the landscape because it will tolerate dry shade but it does best in well drained but moist soil in partial shade.  It does not propagate well from seed; it is usually started from rhizomes as it does sucker, or by rooting cuttings.

Fly Honeysuckle is one of our native honeysuckles and is not considered invasive.  It forms a slowly spreading bush up to about 8 feet tall with attractive leaves.  In late April it has sweet smelling yellow-white flowers that become reddish fruits in late summer.  The fruits are eagerly sought by robins and cardinals. 

Fly honeysuckle is tolerant of most soil and moisture conditions and will grow in full sun to partial shade.  It is propagated by seed or cuttings quite easily although plants may be a little slow to establish.

New Jersey Tea may be the best known of these four native shrubs and does appear for sale in native plant catalogs and herbal catalogs.  It has a long history of ethno-botanical uses in North America.  Other common names are red root, mountain sweet and wild snowball.   It is a small wiry stemmed shrub to about 3 feet tall.  It has long oval leaves that smell like wintergreen when crushed and that have white hairs on the back.   Stems are green when young but turn woody with age.  The roots are reddish in color.

New Jersey Tea flowers are fragrant clusters of tiny white flowers that attract a lot of bees and butterflies. They bloom for as long as a month in early summer.  The plant is the larval host for the butterflies Spring Azure, Summer Azure, Mottled Duskywing and the Dreamy Duskywing.  The flowers turn into papery 3 lobed capsules with hard brown seeds inside.  The seeds are eaten by many birds including wild turkeys and grouse.   Beware- deer love to browse on this plant and will seek it out.

New Jersey tea is named because early settlers used its dry leaves as a tea substitute. It has no caffeine but may give an energy boost.  Native Americans had several medicinal uses for the plant.  It was used for bowel problems and the roots were eaten to give people energy on long trips.  It lowers blood pressure and the roots were used to stop bleeding- they have blood clotting properties.  The roots are also used to make a red dye.

New Jersey Tea likes well drained soil and will survive droughty conditions.  It prefers full sun.  It is slow growing but will gradually spread by suckering.  It can be propagated by seed or cuttings but the biggest problem is protecting it from deer and rabbits which are unusually fond of the plant (maybe that energy thing again?).  In the garden it is also prone to powdery mildew, especially in irrigated conditions.   This is a plant however, with some selective breeding, which could produce several nice garden varieties.

Why cold may be more important than warmth in climate change

Scientists and ordinary people both have noticed that the normal schedule of spring has been altered in temperate areas and that plants aren’t leafing out, flowering or fruiting at the right times.  This leads to complications for other species on earth, including humans, who depend on plants to feed and shelter them.   As the climate warms the degree of change becomes greater.  Since light doesn’t change, the days lengthen and wane just as they did before the world got warmer, temperature has to be involved.

You might be thinking that the plants will bloom and green up earlier when the climate becomes milder and they do to some extent.  But plants that evolved in temperature zones also need a certain amount of cold during their resting phase to function on schedule.  In milder than normal winters the flowering and fruiting of some species is actually delayed or prevented.  Some plant species have begun to decline in some areas and expand northward, where the amount of cold in the rest period is more suited for that species.

While gardeners may rejoice that they can grow species of plants that used to be not winter hardy in their zone, they may also lose some old and dependable plants from the garden.  And the whole web of life is affected by the loss of some plant species or even just a delay in their fruiting or flowering.  Birds and pollinators for example, depend on certain plants to bloom or fruit at times that are beneficial to them and when that doesn’t happen, it can cause great losses in their populations.  And when there are no pollinators when flowers bloom, it can cause a decline in that plant species.

Warmer winters also have a tendency to keep plants from going into a deep enough dormancy so that even short mild periods will start growth again, which is often followed by colder temperatures that can do great damage to plant vigor or actually kill the plant.  In many areas hosta are now be affected in this way- there is actually more winter kill than when the winters were colder.

In the journal Global Change Biology, researchers report that the worst time for warmer than normal winter temperatures are mid- February to mid-March, when the lengthening day also begins to signal plants to come out of dormancy but when there is still a good chance for later cold weather.   Some plant species are able to adapt their life processes to changing winters but some, including many tree species, may not be able to adjust.

Researchers also warn farmers and gardeners not to rely so much on older signs to begin planting- such as planting corn when the oak leaves are the size of mouse ears or planting tomatoes when the lilacs bloom.  Even scientific “degree day” indications for planting may now be off track.   We may have to re-adjust our knowledge of phenology- relating plant growth stages to other biological processes, such as pest emergence.

Don’t overdo the fish oil, eat eggs instead

We are constantly being told that fish oil and other sources of Omega 3 fatty acids should be generously consumed but new research suggests you can get too much of a good thing.  Research done at MSU and published this month in Prostaglandins, Leukotrienes & Essential Fatty Acids, suggests that too much Omega 3 fatty acid can alter the immune system and lower the body’s ability to fight infections.  It can also cause colitis.   Researchers don’t believe that there is a problem with the amount of Omega 3 fatty acids that could be consumed with foods; it is only where people take large regular supplements of Omega 3 that problems can develop.   So ditch the fish oil tablets and eat fish.

However one food that people were being warned not to eat too much of – eggs- is being found to be extremely beneficial to our health.  Research has found that eggs actually contain more antioxidants than an apple or cranberries, about twice as much in raw yolks.  When cooked the antioxidants in egg yolks still equals that of an apple or cranberries.  This is based on the hens eating a typical confinement diet of grains; eggs from free range hens may contain even more antioxidants.

Even better than antioxidants, researchers have found that the proteins in eggs are converted to ACE inhibitors in the intestines and this can actually work to lower blood pressure.    Eggs have been given a bad rap in the last few decades because it was thought that the yolks raised blood cholesterol and people have taken to nasty habits like eating an egg white sandwich.  However it has been proven that eggs raise the cholesterol only in certain individuals with genetic idiosyncrasies and in most people eggs don’t cause a rise in bad cholesterol.  Eggs are high in protein, low in calories and full of many needed vitamins, they are a perfect food that should be eaten whole and frequently.  ( I am a teeny bit prejudiced toward eggs but the facts are there.)

Dog tail wagging

This may not be about gardening but here’s a bit of interesting information that I have come across in reading this week.  According to research dogs wag their tails to the right if they are happy or playful and to the left if they are feeling sad, angry or otherwise in a bad mood.  Other dogs respond to the tail wagging direction in a way that indicates they understand what the tail wagging signifies.  The tail wagging corresponds to areas of the brain “that light up” under observation which control aggressive or fear feelings or happy, playful feelings. The problem is I can’t tell which way my dogs are wagging their tails.

Make sure to have an egg for breakfast!

Kim

Garden as though you will live forever. William Kent