Tuesday, May 26, 2015

May 26, 2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

May 26, 2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter    © Kim Willis

Hi Gardeners

One of my flower beds I was working on.
I hope you planted something this Memorial Day weekend.  I certainly did.  I have one of those funny afflictions where my eyes say I can buy far more plants than my hands and energy want to plant.  But I soldiered through and have finally gotten almost everything I bought planted.  Who needs a Memorial Day picnic when you can be gardening? So much to do.  What to plant where?  Does this pot look better here or there?  What else do I need to buy to fill that bare spot?

I also moved most of my houseplants outside.  The windows are now bare, we might need curtains now.  I was hoping for a cloudy, rainy stretch of weather for the transplanting and moving out of plants but we got little rain yesterday, barely a trace, and it was only partly cloudy.  Today is hot and sunny so far, I am once again hoping for some rain tonight.  I am taking a break from planting today to get this newsletter out and enjoying my time under the ceiling fan.  My husband is actually doing some housework today as I sadly neglect it during this time of year.

Mayapple flower.
The air is perfumed with lilacs, lilies of the valley, and the lovely little starflower(Isotoma) I buy each year for the porch.  The Mayapples are blooming, you have to look under the umbrella leaves for the little white flowers though.  Mayapple makes a good, taller ground cover in shady or semi-shady spots. I got my plants in an odd way.  A Master Gardener student in one of my classes told me his woods were filled with trilliums in bloom.  I told him I would love to have some trilliums for my woodland garden.  The next day he appeared with a bucket of “trilliums” for me which of course was not trilliums but Mayapples.  They worked out well though.   Mayapple flowers turn into little fruits that wildlife love and people can eat too.

The rhubarb is blooming also.  I let mine go to bloom; some people take out the flower stalk. They are so pretty in bloom and can make good flower garden subjects for large informal gardens even if you don’t like to eat the stalks.  See how to grow it below. And try the recipe for rhubarb cake.

I’ll have lettuce and spinach to harvest this week.  My blueberries actually set fruit- I am amazed.  I have strawberries on the plants; if I can keep the chickens from getting them they’ll be ready in about 2 weeks.  My carrots, melons, and pumpkins have sprouted.  I am still waiting for the corn to sprout.

Lily of the Valley, wild geranium
Dames Rocket is in bloom, my bearded iris are starting to bloom, foxglove is in bloom, the bristly locust is just beginning to bloom.  My yellow graduation rose is covered in buds, I can’t wait for them to open.  The hostas are looking great this spring, despite the hard winter.  I found some tiny hosta coming up from seeds this spring while weeding.  Now that’s something I never had happen before.  I am marking them to keep them safe and I’m curious as to what they will look like. 

A book I recommend

Amazon had an 80% off sale on electronic books and I happened to see a large, recently published book on perennials in the offerings.  Essential Perennials by Ruth Rogers and Thomas Christopher was published January 2015 by Timber Press and is an updated look at 2700 garden perennials in alphabetical order, some 452 pages of them.

The authors give short growing details, suggested plant combinations, their own observations on the plant and other tips. There is updated info on name changes and new cultivars. Lots of color photos in the hard cover, my kindle reader only showed them in black and white but some ebook readers probably show them in color.  If you don’t have a modern perennial guide this one is a great book to have.

I paid $1.99 for the book in electronic format, and it’s well worth it, even if the color pictures are not there.  Look on the 80% off sale list to see if it’s still there.  If not expect to pay $17.25 for ebook, $29.83 for the hard cover edition. 

What to plant now

It’s go time for zone 5-6 gardeners; you can plant all vegetable crops now.  Peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, melons, beans, cucumbers and pumpkins can all go in the ground, whether as seeds or transplants.  You may want to start a new crop of lettuce if you have one up and growing, to prolong your harvest.

Shade your new veggie transplants for a few days or plant them when it’s supposed to be cloudy for a few days.  This keeps them from sunburn in the first days after transplanting and gets them off to a good start.  A single sheet of newspaper is enough; make a little tent with it to cover the plant. For large plants you may need an old sheet or some large paper bags. Don’t use plastic or the plants may overheat. Water the plants daily if it’s hot and dry for the first week.

You may have to water things like corn and beans to get them to sprout if it doesn’t rain a ½ inch or so the week they are planted.

All those “after frost” flower seeds can also be planted now, zinnias, cosmos, sunflowers, marigolds, and others.   Tender bulbs like canna, dahlias and glads can be planted or started plants transplanted outside.  The bedding annuals and hanging baskets can go in place.  Get those containers for the porch and patio planted.   And it’s probably safe to take the houseplants outside for their summer grow-cation.  Just make sure to put them in the shade for a week or two until they adjust to outside conditions.

It’s still fine to plant potted perennials, shrubs and trees.  Just make sure to keep them well watered for the first year.  It’s probably getting too late to plant lawn grass, wait for fall now to seed a lawn.

What’s at the Farmers Market now?

Lettuce and other greens, peas, green onions, chives, rhubarb, radishes, early beets, and asparagus should be available as locally grown.  Strawberries are progressing nicely and should be available in a week or so.    

You may want to look for a source of local eggs as supermarket egg prices are expected to rise rapidly because bird flu has wiped out entire flocks of layers in the mid-west.

How to Grow Rhubarb

One of the treats of early spring has to be rhubarb pie.  Michigan gardeners are lucky that they have ideal conditions to grow rhubarb and can usually manage a generous rhubarb harvest.  Michigan is also home to a thriving commercial rhubarb crop, most of it grown under glass or in tunnels to provide early rhubarb for those who craving the sweet -sour treat before it’s ready in the garden.

Rhubarb is a perennial crop; once you plant it you can harvest it for many years.  Make sure you choose a location for it in your garden where it won’t be disturbed.  Rhubarb isn’t fussy about soil type or soil pH as well as it is in a well-drained area.  It will even do well in light shade, although your crop will be bigger and plants more robust in full sun.

Rhubarb has large, “crinkled” or “rumpled” dark green leaves with bright red stalks.   The stalks are redder in the early spring.  Rhubarb plants slowly get larger over the years and a clump of rhubarb can be 3 feet high and 5-6 feet wide. In early summer rhubarb puts up tall flower stalks with clusters of white, airy flowers.  It can be quite ornamental if placed where its large size doesn’t overwhelm the garden.

Stately rhubarb in bloom.
Gardeners usually start with rhubarb “roots”, dormant divisions of a rhubarb plant.  There are several good varieties of rhubarb.  Victoria is an old variety that grows well in Michigan. Canada Red and Valentine are two other good varieties.  Rhubarb is generally planted in early spring.  One or two well grown plants are usually enough for a small family.

Rhubarb likes rich, fertile soil.  Work in compost and well-aged manure where you are going to plant it.  Plant rhubarb so the sprouts are about 2 inches below the soil.  Plants should be spaced at least 3 feet apart. About 3 weeks after planting, as growth starts, use a slow release garden fertilizer around the plants.  If spring is dry, water rhubarb to keep it succulent and growing.

Fertilize rhubarb each year as you see growth begin. Keep it weeded, especially the first year as it establishes itself.  Rhubarb has few pests other than kids; make sure you keep an eye on those so they don’t over harvest.

Unfortunately you’ll need to skip a harvest the first year you plant rhubarb. The plant needs to establish a good root system and needs all its leaves.  In the second year and every year after, you can harvest up to a third of the leaf stalks.  To harvest rhubarb simply snap or cut the stalks off the plant. Wash well before eating.

Rhubarb can be eaten raw as most country kids know, or sweetened and cooked into pies, preserves or jelly.  It is often combined with strawberries for some delectable treats.  Rhubarb can be washed, cut into small pieces and frozen.  Frozen rhubarb will be soft when thawed but can be turned into pies and other treats.   It can also be cooked and frozen.

Never consume any part of the rhubarb plant except the stalks and stalks only in the spring.  Rhubarb contains oxalic acid, which can be poisonous.  In the spring, before the flower stalks start, the stems of rhubarb have little oxalic acid and are safe to eat, unless you consume huge quantities.  Consuming large amounts of rhubarb stalks can lead to a tummy ache and lots of bathroom trips even in the spring. 

Rhubarb may need to be divided if clumps seem to be producing fewer stalks or thin weak stalks.  Simply dig up the whole clump in early spring and pull apart the roots and stem buds into separate clumps with several stem buds on each.  Replant as soon as possible.  Most rhubarb benefits from dividing every 3-5 years.

In the fall, after rhubarb leaves are killed by frost, trim them off.  After the ground freezes throw a layer of straw or oak leaves over the rhubarb crown.   Remove the mulch in early spring.  It’s a good idea to mark the location of rhubarb clumps with a stake if early garden work could damage them.

If you love rhubarb, you can tuck a clump into all but the tiniest garden and enjoy it for many years.  The best tasting rhubarb is right from your own garden.

Rhubarb and pineapple cake

This cake is fairly easy to prepare and tastes delicious. You could frost it, but it’s great with a scoop of whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, especially while warm. It’s not as sweet as some cakes, but soft, moist and flavorful. This makes a good potluck dessert, something different. Rhubarb and pineapple cake also freezes well.
Rhubarb-pineapple cake

* 2 cups of peeled, sliced rhubarb
* 3/4 cup of sugar
* 3 tablespoons butter (or margarine)
* 1 yellow cake mix
* 1 20 oz. can of unsweetened crushed pineapple, don’t drain.
* 3 eggs

Grease a 13x9 inch cake pan. Preheat oven to 350.

In a microwave safe bowl combine rhubarb and sugar. Cover bowl and microwave on high for about 3 minutes. The rhubarb should look like the consistency of the crushed pineapple.

Add the butter to the rhubarb bowl and let it melt. In the meantime combine the cake mix, 3 eggs and can of pineapple in a big bowl. Pour in the rhubarb-butter mixture.

Beat with the electric beaters until the cake mix and other ingredients are well combined, about 2 minutes. Pour into greased pan and bake for about 35 minutes- until a knife inserted comes out clean. Cool slightly and serve.

Bleeding Hearts

Bleeding heart, Dicentra spectabilis, is an old fashioned charmer that belongs in every Michigan garden.  It’s charming and also deer resistant a great combination for most Michigan gardeners.  Bleeding heart is also known as Dutchman’s breeches or trousers.

Bleeding Hearts
Classic bleeding heart has clusters of 1-2 inch pink and white heart shaped flowers with a little upward curl on each side at the bottom.  Flowers dangle along tall stems over fern-like blue-green foliage.  Bleeding heart blooms in early spring about the time mid-season tulips and daffodils bloom and in cool springs may continue blooming through June.  Some newer varieties will re-bloom several times if kept moist.

Gardeners will find bleeding heart offered in the catalogs and stores as bare root plants and as potted plants. If bare root they can be planted in the spring as soon as the soil has thawed.  Potted plants already blooming should be planted out about the time forsythia blooms.  Bleeding heart is hardy to zone 4, which makes it safe for most of Michigan.

There are now varieties of bleeding heart that have white or red flowers and even a variety with lighter, yellow green foliage. Some of the newer, more sun tolerant varieties of bleeding heart have more tubular shaped flowers rather than heart shaped flowers. 

‘King of Hearts’ is a red flowered, heat tolerant hybrid.  ‘Aurora’ is a white flowered variety.   Rosy pink ‘Bacchanal’ is said to be the most sun and heat tolerant bleeding heart.  “Gold Heart’ is the variety with golden leaves.

Old fashioned bleeding heart can get to 2 feet tall in a favorable spot but many new varieties are more compact and get 15 -18 inches high.  Clumps slowly enlarge over the years.  Give bleeding heart plenty of room so it can develop its graceful arching form.

Traditional bleeding heart likes to be under deciduous trees where it will get some sunlight in early spring but then be shaded when the trees leaf out.  Newer varieties on the market will take some sun later in the season if they are kept moist.  Still a partly shaded to light shade location is the preferred planting spot.

Bleeding heart prefers a rich, moist organic soil.  If the soil is good fertilization probably isn’t necessary.   A nice layer of leaf mulch or finely shredded bark would keep the soil moist and cool around the plant’s roots.

Keeping bleeding heart plants well watered will ensure the best show of flowers.  If the plants are subjected to too much heat and dry out they will go dormant and the foliage will die back to the ground.  This tends to happen to older varieties anyway by mid-summer.  They generally return in the spring when conditions are better, so don’t forget to mark their spot.

To prolong bloom and encourage repeat bloom in some of the newer varieties keep bleeding heart flowers trimmed off as they fade.

Leaf miners are bleeding hearts biggest pest.  These tiny worm-like critters leave white trails across the leaves.  A systemic insecticide could be used on the plants but the miners seldom do any serious damage to the plants health.

Bleeding Heart mixes well with spring bulbs and shade lovers like hosta and heuchera.  It is a shady cottage garden staple but looks good in any shady location.

Bleeding heart has been reclassified in some books as Lamprocapnos spectabilis.

Drink your chamomile tea

Mexican Americans are fond of chamomile tea and recent research published in Gerontologist  has found that drinking the tea has some great benefits for them, especially for women.  Chamomile tea can probably help people of all ethnicities.   

Researchers from The University of Texas Medical Branch at Galveston studied Mexican–American populations age 65 and older in 5 southwestern states, tracking their use of chamomile tea over the previous 7 years.  They found that Mexican American women who drank chamomile tea had a 29% lower mortality rate from all causes than women who did not drink chamomile tea. The mortality rate of men was not affected.

Chamomile tea reduces anxiety, aids in sleep, and helps indigestion.  The tea has been found to lower cholesterol, lower blood glucose slightly and it has antioxidant, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory effects on the body.  All of these factors probably account for a lower mortality rate among chamomile tea drinkers.


Growing Chamomile- Cultivating Calmness 

Chamomile has been used as a remedy for calming the nerves and the stomach, and easing sleep, since herbal remedies were recorded. Chamomile is one of those herbs that even beginners can grow and it is hardy through much of the United States.  Chamomile is also used in a variety of beauty products currently on the market from shampoo to skin cream.

Modern medical research has determined that chamomile has anti-bacterial, anti-viral and anti-fungal properties, good for use on minor wounds, and skin conditions and as a gargle for sore throats and inflamed gums.  Chamomile also relaxes the smooth muscles, particularly in the intestines and is used to calm upset stomachs, and to relieve gas pain, cramping, and minor diarrhea.

The most common herbal use of chamomile however, is to calm the nerves and aid in getting a good night’s sleep. Research has confirmed that it has sedative properties. It can be used alone or with other herbs with sedative properties such as valerian and catnip.  Chamomile is widely available on the market as a tea, capsules, powdered herb, or essential oil.  It is easy to grow your own chamomile for herbal use also.
Chamomile

There are two types of chamomile grown by herbalists, German, (Matricaria recutita), and English or Roman (Chamaemelum nobile).  Both are easy to grow, similar in appearance, and are used for the same medicinal purposes.  German Chamomile is the plant used to grow commercial crops.  It is the most studied, but most experts believe the medicinal qualities are very similar between the two types of chamomile.

German Chamomile is an annual plant that needs to be planted each year; Roman Chamomile is a perennial, hardy in zones 3-9.  German Chamomile gets about 2 feet tall but Roman Chamomile is a groundcover plant that rarely gets more than a foot high.

Both types of Chamomile have tiny, narrow gray-green leaves that give them a ferny appearance.  German Chamomile grows upright as a single plant.   Roman Chamomile grows as a tangled mat of plants produced by rhizomous roots.  The leaves of both types have a characteristic smell when crushed, somewhat like apples. 

It is the daisy like flowers that produce the medicinal qualities. The flowers are white, with 15-18 petals drooping down from a raised yellow cone.  They are about an inch across. Plants begin blooming in mid-summer.  A double flowered variety of German Chamomile has been grown since the 16th century

Growing Chamomile

German Chamomile is started from seed or small plants can be purchased.   In cold climates it would be wise to start the seeds inside about 6 weeks before the last frost.  Transplant them outside after your last frost as they are not frost hardy.  Seeds can also be sown in the garden when the soil is warm.

Roman Chamomile can be started from seed but germination is less reliable than German Chamomile.  Roman Chamomile produces runners, little plants that can be separated from the main plant.  New gardeners will probably want to buy plants or get a start from a friend.  To make tea you’ll probably need several plants.

Chamomile likes a sunny spot, with sandy soil.  It tolerates dry conditions but will bloom more freely if watered regularly.  It will not grow in wet areas.  Unless the soil is very poor chamomile does not need fertilizer.  If you are growing Roman Chamomile do not cut the plants back in the fall.  Wait until spring to carefully remove the dead branches from the previous year.

Growing chamomile near other herbs is said to make those herbs have stronger medicinal qualities and make the neighboring plants stronger and healthier.

Harvesting and Using Chamomile

Harvest the flower heads as they bloom.  You can just clip them off the plant. You can use them fresh or dry them for later use. To make an herbal tea, you can steep about a cup of fresh flower heads in a pint of boiling water.  Use about 2 tablespoons of dried powdered flower heads to a cup of boiling water.  Keep a lid on steeping chamomile as some of the medicinal qualities may be lost if it is left open. Strain before drinking. 

To calm the nerves and bring on restful sleep, the dosage is about a cup of warm tea.  Cooled tea can be used as a gargle for sore throats or inflamed gums and cold sores.  Tea is often mixed with ginger ale to help upset stomachs.

For use externally, as a poultice for skin problems or minor wounds make the tea much stronger, about 3-4 cups of fresh flowers to a pint of water or 6-8 tablespoons dried herb to a cup of water.  Cool before using.  This can also be used as a rinse for blond hair to restore highlights.  Cool chamomile tea is also used as a spray for seedlings, to prevent fungal disease.

The flowers can be crushed and then slowly steamed, which will produce pale blue oil.  When such oil is produced at home it is hard to judge the quality and strength.  It’s also hard to produce a sizable quantity.  If you would like to use chamomile oil for herbal lotions or remedies it might be wise to purchase a standardized extract at a health food or drug store.

If you don’t like tea and want to try chamomiles soothing properties you can purchase capsules and tinctures in many stores.  Follow the label directions for dosage.

Precautions for chamomile use

Adults should drink no more than 2-3 cups of chamomile tea a day.  Children under 5 should drink no more than half a cup and ages 5-18, about a cup. Follow label directions on capsules and tinctures.  Chamomile thins the blood and can cause excessive bleeding. It may also mimic the effects of estrogen.
Chamomile should not be used by people allergic to ragweed, chrysanthemums, or asters. It should not be used by persons with asthma before consulting a doctor. Use chamomile cautiously in small doses until you determine if you are allergic to it.

It is thought that chamomile may have estrogen like effects on the body and those with breast or uterine cancers should not use chamomile. Pregnant women should also avoid chamomile because can cause excessive bleeding during childbirth or cause uterine contractions.  and is passed to the infant through mother’s milk.

People on blood thinners should not use chamomile.  Chamomile reacts with many drugs.  If you are on ant-depressants, sleep medicines, birth control pills, sedatives, anticonvulsants, some allergy medications, statins or pain medications you should talk to your doctor about using chamomile.   In fact, you should always consult your doctor before mixing herbal and other medications.  Alcohol use with chamomile should be avoided.

Go Garden- you won’t need chamomile tea for sleep!
Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero



Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me.

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/groups/875574275841637/

Here’s a facebook page link for gardeners in the Lapeer area

Free Garden tour by Michigan Hosta Society, Saturday June 13th, 9 am – 5pm.

Take a self-guided tour through 5 beautiful gardens, public welcome and it’s free!  There will be refreshments at some gardens and vendors will be offering items for sale and demonstrations.  To get more info and a map go to http://easternmichiganhostasociety.blogspot.com/

Peonies Galore Sale, Sat, May 30, 2015, 10am, Nichols Arboretum,1610 Washington Heights, Ann Arbor, MI
         
Locally grown heirloom peonies for sale set amid the largest collection of heirloom peonies in North America. 734-647-7600.

Welcoming the Summer Get-Together, Auction & Plant Exchange Mon, June 1, 2015, 7pm, Congregational Church of Birmingham, Bloomfield Hills, MI

Get to know your fellow gardeners, share secrets & bid/exchange great plants. Hardy Plant Society 248-693-0334


Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch.  Now open.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to all the spring programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/education/progs/springprograms/

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580

Back Track To Nature offers the following programs to inspire you and deepen your relationship with nature! In partnership with the Lapeer Land Conservancy and Seven Ponds Nature Center these programs are a perfect way for families and adults to enjoy the outdoors.

JUNE 2015

Learn in the Garden Tour  -  A Visit to Three Roods Farm
Monday, June 1, 2015                        9:30AM to 11:30AM and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
4821 One Acre Drive, Columbiaville, Michigan 48421
In this tried and true farm and garden tour we will discover what’s growing at 3RF and learn the meaning of CSA. See what goes into managing a beehive, discover how permaculture garden design uses the inherent qualities of plants and animals combined with natural characteristics of the landscape, and  visit with the chickens, ducks and peahens all living in harmony with one another. Dress for the weather. No admittance fee.  Please call 810-969-1023 to register, children under 17 must be accompanied by a registered adult.

The History of the Land Series - Introduction to Land Stewardship
Thursday June 4, 2015                      6:00PM to 8:00PM
Entrance and parking is located across from 4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan In this History of the Land Series, our focus will be on land stewardship of the Tibbits property.  You will gain valuable information and understanding about what a land steward is required to do: we will discuss how to monitor property, identify encroachments both the animal an human impact and show you how to perform trail maintenance and identify invasive species. Join Karen Page land steward, at the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary a Lapeer Land Conservancy property. Cost is $3.00 per person, children 12 and under are free. Groups of 5 or more please call Karen at 810-969-1023 at least 3 days prior to reserve your spot.

Wild Springtime Tea Party
Saturday, June 13, 2015                   10:00AM to 12:00PM
Cassie M owner of Hilltop Barn will guide us through field and forest to show us how to identify native plants and brew up some tasty teas and learn the how wild edibles are beneficial to your overall health. Please contact Karen Page at 810-969-1023 to register, children 17 and younger must be accompanied by a registered adult. No admittance fee and donations accepted. Please park in the designated parking area.

Living with Less: Talk and Tour of the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
Saturday, June 13, 2015                     1:00PM to 3:00PM 
4107 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan 48421 Rewire your brain to repurpose, reuse, recycle, harvest rainwater and grow your own foods, begin a new lifestyle recreated by living with less, Tibbits Nature Sanctuary owner Clark Tibbits will share his successful experiences creating a life long choice to live on less. A step you can make toward a living with less can be as simple as adding a rain barrel and a square foot garden to your home landscape. Back Track To Nature owner Karen Page, will demonstrate how to harvest rainwater and grow your own food in a small spaces.  Please call 810-969-1023 to register, children under 17 must be accompanied by a registered adult. Follow the signs and park in the designated parking area.

The History of the Land - Introduction to Wetland Restoration
Monday, June 15, 2015                   9:00AM to 11:00AM and 6:00PM to 8:00PM
Entrance and parking is located across from 4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan. In this History of the Land Series we will explore, observe and study the wetlands and learn about rich and exciting varieties of wildlife and plants, focusing on water lilies, Today, this wetland is cared for by the Lapeer Land Conservancy but it could have been in the backyard of the famous painter Monet who in 1890 developed his own outside studio where water lilies influenced his paintings. Cost is $3.00 per person, children 12 and under are free.  Dress for the weather. Groups of 5 or more please call Karen at 810-969-1023 at least 3 days before to reserve your spot.

Change of the Season – A Guided Nature Walk
Saturday, June 27, 2015               9:30AM to 11:30AM and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
Entrance and parking is located across from  4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan Join us for a guided nature walk on the trials of the Hilton and Marjorie Tibbits Nature Sanctuary a Lapeer Land Conservancy property. Bring water bottle, binoculars, camera and field guides. Dress for the weather. This is a walking tour on uneven terrain. No Admittance fee. Groups of 5 or more please call 810-969-1023 at least 3 days prior to this walk.

Learn in the Garden Tour - Planting, Composting and Water Harvesting
Monday, June 29, 2015                 9:30AM to 11:30AM and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
In this tried and true garden tour you will learn basic techniques, of planting, composting and water harvesting to promote sustainability and keep your own garden growing in abundance. This farm and garden tour will be held at Three Roods Farm at 4821 One Acre Drive, Columbiaville Michigan. Dress for the weather. Class size is limited to 15, children 17 and under must be accompanied by a registered adult. No admittance fee. Call 810-969-1023 to reserve your spot.


Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com


Tuesday, May 19, 2015

May 19, 2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter

May 19, 2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter    © Kim Willis

Hi Gardeners

Garden at Suncrest, May 2015
As usual Tuesday is a day of weather change.  It’s hard to imagine yesterday was 85 and humid.  Tonight we have a chance of frost once more so all of us who have those tender plants out there will need to cover them tonight.  I would cover the plants you can’t afford to lose even if it’s cloudy tonight.  The skies are likely to clear at sunrise and that’s a good time for frost to occur.  It’s also going to be quite cold tonight and a blanket will feel good to those shivering plants.

It’s amazing that weather can be quite different even in the same county.  I was talking to some folks last night who told me that they had over 3 inches of rain last week and the ground was too wet to plant.  They were south of me 20 miles or so.  Here we had only 8/10 inch last week and about 3/10 inch yesterday.  I was happy to see some rain as I needed it to get the garden up and growing.

My vegetable garden is pretty well planted now.  I planted popcorn and sweet corn this weekend.  Hopefully when it sprouts the danger of frost will be gone.  The garden is transforming from the yellows, oranges and reds of early bulbs to the purples of alliums, lilacs, dames rocket, early dwarf iris, creeping phlox and wild geraniums.  Sweet woodruff is adding some tiny white flowers to the mix and the bleeding heart is accenting with vibrant pink.

The orioles are back.  They have been busy at the grape jelly feeder all week.  The pair of green herons is back at my pond, with their raspy croaking at me whenever I get close.  The crows are chasing the hawks and the Eastern kingbirds are chasing the crows.  The Canada geese are parading their broods across the horse pasture across the road going from pond to pond.  And turtles are crossing the roads.  If you see one and want to help, always put it in the direction it was headed, even if that seems like the wrong way to you.  Otherwise they will just try again.  Please don’t run over them if you can help it.

Memorial Day Planting tips

Can you believe it?- Monday is Memorial Day! In Michigan Memorial Day seems to send everyone into planting mode.  Some people even think you have to do your planting on that weekend, as if it’s the deadline to get plants into the ground.  Nursery and garden shop owners love Memorial Day and most will be fully stocked.  But before you wade into the frenzy here’s some things you should consider.

Memorial Day isn’t the last time you can plant; there will be several weekends in June left for good planting.  If wet and cold weather prevail, plants are probably better off in the greenhouse. Things may be a little picked over right after the holiday but you will probably get some bargains as nurseries want to move out most stock before it gets too warm.

Memorial Day’s arrival also doesn’t mean we will be frost free from then out.  In Michigan we can and sometimes do have frost after the holiday.  Keep an eye on the weather for a week or two after the holiday and be prepared to cover tender plants if frost threatens.

Before you go out shopping set a budget, decide what you need and make a list.  If you are a plant-a -holic take a friend who isn’t one to keep you on the straight and narrow.

Vegetable transplants- The healthiest transplants are those that are stocky and dark green.  When you are looking at cell packs- (the plastic containers holding 4-6 plants), you do not want to choose vegetable transplants that already have flowers and fruits.  These have been stunted and stressed and will not perform well for you.  If vegetables such as tomatoes are in large pots, then having flowers and fruit are ok, if you want to pay a premium price.

Look for vegetable plants that are not lanky and yellowing or wilted.  Plants like cucumbers, squash, watermelon and pumpkins should be very young, with just one set of true leaves.  If they are larger they tend to get transplant shock when planted and never do well.

Annual plants- Most annuals will be in full flower when you choose them, even though that probably isn’t the best way to purchase them in cell packs.  It would be better to choose those annuals in cell packs that are dark green and stocky, and just starting to bloom. For foliage annuals such as coleus the plants should only be about 6 inches tall in cell packs.  Look over plants carefully.  They should be healthy looking, not lanky, and yellowing or losing a lot of leaves.   If the annuals are in cell packs- see above- the biggest, tallest plants aren’t the best choice; they are usually stressed from growing in the cells too long. Check each cell pack you pick up to see if there is a plant in each compartment.   No sense in paying for 4 plants and getting 3.  Many times a plant will have died somewhere along the growing cycle.

Waiting in  a greenhouse near you.
If annuals are in pots, such as 4-6 inch pots, then buds and bloom are expected and the plants won’t be stressed as much from their time in the greenhouse.  You can see the almost mature size of these plants and while they are more expensive you may buy less of them because they cover more space.

Don’t over buy annuals.  They may look a bit sparse when first planted but will fill in quickly.  Crowded plants are prone to disease.  And since annuals only live one season it doesn’t make sense to make them the biggest part of your plant budget.

Here’s a tip that most of you will disregard.  For the best start and rooting of annual plants remove all fully opened blooms and those buds about to open before planting.  Plants will quickly replace the blooms.

Perennial plants- First realize that many of the blooming perennials you pick up are not blooming at their regular times.  If you are putting together compatible colors in the shopping basket realize that those plants may never bloom again at the same times.  Also realize that most perennials bloom for a few weeks then are not in bloom for the rest of the year. You can often get bargains if you purchase plants in nurseries that have quit blooming for the year.  If you can wait for blooms until next year these are a good buy.

Make sure to check perennial tags to see if they are hardy in Michigan.  Sometimes plants slip through into Michigan stores that are not really winter hardy here.  This is more likely to happen at chain store garden shops, rather than local nurseries.  Below M-59 in Michigan plants hardy to zone 6 may over winter, zone 5 plants are better.  Above M-59 choose plants hardy to zone 5, unless you are in zone 4 or 3 pockets of upper Michigan.

A lot of tropical and tender perennials are being showcased in garden shops.  Chinese hibiscus, bougainvillea, gardenias, camellias, agaves and other things look beautiful in gardens, but are a bit expensive and won’t over winter outside in Michigan. If you are not at a true nursery with experienced help, don’t count on sales clerks to know what is hardy.  It’s fine to buy these tropicals if you know you’ll need to provide winter homes for them or are willing to let them die at summers end.

It’s always good to do your homework before purchasing perennials to see when they bloom, how often they bloom and what conditions they like before investing in them.  The adult size of the plant should also be taken into consideration.

Trees and shrubs  It’s probably too late to get healthy trees and shrubs that are packaged- those in plastic bags with shavings or in cardboard boxes, called bare root or dormant plants.  If they are marked down to bargain prices you can take a gamble and sometimes you’ll get lucky. Because they are often leafed out and look fine, people think they are healthy.  They have used up most root reserves and often don’t live.  If you are paying full price go for potted trees and shrubs by Memorial Day. This is also true for roses. Potted plants should be showing green buds or be leaved out at this time.

For any type of plant, if it’s an impulse buy, make sure you have the right conditions for the plant at home, what kind of light and moisture conditions does it need?  There is no sense buying plants that won’t grow in your conditions.

And finally, take care of your plants after you buy them.  Don’t leave plants in the car in the sun while you shop elsewhere.  They can die from overheating.   When you get home you should place the plants in a shady location, sheltered from wind, until you plant them.  Don’t forget to water them; they dry out fast in pots.  Plant them as soon as possible, make it a rule to plant what you have before buying more.

Should you worry about contaminated soil in food gardens?

Many people who want to put in food gardens in urban areas worry about the soil being polluted with harmful substances such as lead, arsenic, and other chemicals from auto exhaust, smokestacks and illegal dumping.  But a recent article in the Journal of Environmental Quality by researchers at Kansas State University concluded that the benefits of growing food outweighed the slight risk polluted soil might pose.

The researchers found that plants did take up pollutants and that plants grown in polluted spoils might test higher than ideal levels for some pollutants.  But researchers also found that there were ways to grow food crops in contaminated soil that left little risk to those eating food produced from it.

The first thing to do when beginning a food garden in an area suspected of being polluted is to have the soil tested and amend any soil nutrients that are low or lacking.  The test doesn’t confirm or rule out contaminants, just the levels of basic soil nutrients that all plants need. If plants have the basic soil nutrients they need for good growth they are less likely to take up contaminants.  The soil pH should also be adjusted to about 6.5, which is ideal for most food crops and keeps nutrients available to plants and not locked in the soil.

Secondly lots of compost or other organic matter should be worked into the soil.  That’s good for all garden soil but in contaminated areas the compost dilutes the amount of contaminated soil available to plants and provides micro nutrients for plant health.  If people are really concerned about soil contamination they can bring in clean topsoil to mix with the existing soil also.  If you are still concerned build raised beds and fill them with fresh, clean soil.

Third, all food grown in contaminated soils should be thoroughly washed before eating it.  While plants do take in some contaminants and retain them, people are more likely to be exposed to pollutants from soil residue clinging to plants.  This is particularly true of root vegetables.  Eating a baby carrot right from the ground may give you a good dose of any contaminants in that soil.  Washing all fresh produce before consuming it is good food safety anyway as any garden can be contaminated with E. coli and other harmful bacteria.

Of course if you know a spot where a heavy oil spill occurred, where toxic waste was dumped for long periods or other serious site contamination is known or suspected it might be wise not to garden there.  But if you are just concerned about contaminants that might have seeped into soil from decades of urban living research shows that your risk of getting high doses of any toxic contaminant are very low.  And the benefits of growing your own food nearly always outweigh any small risks from contaminated soil.

And remember soil contamination is not just an urban thing.  Old farmland can have high levels of arsenic from prior pesticide use or irrigation with arsenic contaminated water. Lead paint flakes can be mixed into the soil around old farm buildings as well as urban homes.  All new garden spots should be treated with equal care that includes a soil test, soil amendment if needed, and lots of compost and organic matter added to the soil.

Plants may transmit Mad Cow and other prion diseases

It’s not only chemical pollutants that plants can absorb into their tissues.  New research has found that plants can absorb prions, tiny organisms like viruses, that are responsible for several horrible diseases and actually transmit those prions to animals who eat them. 

The University of Texas Health Science Center at Houston has recently published research that shows that wheat grass can absorb prions into its roots and leaves from contaminated soil and then transmit the prions to lab animals who eat the wheat grass and then die from prion diseases.  The prions are in the plant cells, not just on the surface of the plants.  The prions have been found in several species of plants, it’s unknown if all plants can absorb prions or not.

While it’s not confirmed that humans could also get a prion disease from eating infected plants this research would suggest it can happen.  (No one wants to eat infected grass to test the theory.)

Prion diseases include bovine spongiform encephalopathy (mad cow disease), scrapie in sheep, variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease in humans and chronic wasting disease that infects deer and elk.  In some places these diseases are endemic in wildlife and this made researchers suspect there were more ways of transmission than simple contact. 

Prions are expelled from sick animals in their urine, blood and other body fluids which are absorbed into the soil and then into plants.  Dead animals decaying on or in soil may also release prions. 

Meat from prion infected animals will also transmit disease and humans have become seriously ill or died from such meat.  Even getting blood or other fluids on the skin from an infected animal poses a risk.  Now there’s a chance that eating plants could transmit the disease also.  It’s unknown if just handling prion infected plants could transmit disease.

This is another reason to exclude animals from food gardens, wild and domestic, and to not use urine or blood as a garden fertilizer.  Composting dead animals and using such compost in the garden would also be unwise.  Those who gather wild foods in areas where prion diseases are known to be present may also want to reconsider their habits.   

Growing Lilacs
The common, but beautiful lilac.

Lilacs were one of the first plants that early settlers brought to America.   Nothing can top the lovely fragrance of lilacs as spring begins to slip into summer.  Lilacs are so hardy and easy to grow that they often persist for hundreds of years after the person that planted them is gone, as many old abandoned farmsteads in Michigan can attest.  While considered old fashioned by some, lilacs are one of the most planted landscape shrubs in North America.  

The large bush lilacs make good privacy screens and hedges.  Tree lilacs make excellent specimen trees as they have interesting bark and fall color as well as flowers.  Dwarf and compact varieties of lilacs can be used in foundation plantings and in perennial beds.

Lilacs are originally from colder areas of Asia and Europe.  They do well in Michigan in all zones.  Most lilacs grow as large shrubs.  Some varieties of lilacs, however, grow as small trees, with a single trunk, and there are dwarf varieties on the market for those who have small yards.

Lilacs have dark green, heart shaped leaves.  Lilac flowers range from lilac to deep wine- red, white and light yellow.  The flowers are born in large clusters in late spring.  As they age the flowers may become lighter in color. Most lilacs have that wonderful lilac scent, but beware; some varieties have little or no fragrance. Lilacs bloom for only a short time, so to prolong the heavenly scent; you can plant several varieties that bloom at different times.

Growing Lilacs
Choose the site for your lilac carefully as they resent being transplanted.  Although they root easily, they may not bloom for several years after being moved.  Lilacs need full sun for the best bloom and disease resistance.  They prefer light sandy soil that is slightly alkaline and well drained.   They may not bloom well if the soil is too acidic and may fail to grow in heavy, wet soil.  Lilacs can get 15 feet high and wide, so make sure the spot where you plant them will be big enough for their adult size.  If you are using lilacs as a hedge or screen, plant lilacs 6-10 foot apart.

Transplant lilacs in a cool period of the year; early spring before they leaf out is ideal.   Keep them watered while they get established.  Too much nitrogen will cause lilacs to have lots of leaves and few flowers, use a little 5-10-10 fertilizer in the early spring if the plant seems to need a boost.

Lilacs sometimes get powdery mildew, a fungal disease that makes the lilac leaves look like they were dusted with white powder.  While it looks bad, it doesn’t affect the lilac plant too much.  You can use a garden fungicide as a preventative spray once the weather starts getting warm.   Another problem of lilacs is lilac borer.  If lilac stems seem to be wilting, check them for tiny holes.  This usually affects older, woody stems.  If you find holes, trim that stem off as close to the ground as you can and destroy it.   Pruning the oldest stems off lilacs helps prevent lilac borers from being attracted to your bush.  You can also treat the lilac with a systemic insecticide to kill borers.

Pruning Lilacs
 Lilacs bloom on old wood, the blooms form on stems that grew the year before.  Too much pruning at the wrong time will leave you with no flowers.  Prune lilacs immediately after they flower.  If the bush is too large and overgrown, take out the largest and oldest stems first, the ones with woody bark.  Unless you need a drastic pruning to restore order, don’t remove more than 1/3 of the plant at a time.   You can trim the tops back to a more manageable height, but you may not have many blooms the next year.  Most shrub lilacs sucker from their root system, remove suckers that are spreading too far into other areas. They can be dug and transplanted to start new lilacs.   All lilacs benefit from removing the dead blooms so they don’t form seeds.

Some Varieties
There are hundreds of varieties of lilac. If you like the look of old fashioned lilacs, choose common lilac, Syringa vulgaris.  Some  popular varieties include; “Lilac Sunday”- typical lilac color but many more flowers, “Charles Joly”- double flowers of dark purple-red, “Rochester” - white, “President Lincoln”- blue, “Krasavitsa Mosky”- double flowers of pearl pink, “Primrose”- pale yellow, “James McFarlane”- a late blooming pink, and “Sensation”- a violet red with white edge.  Dwarf and compact varieties include “Miss Kim”-lilac color and late blooming, “Tinkerbelle”- deep pink, and “Red Pixie”- wine red.   Tree lilacs are often sold as “Chinese” or “Korean” tree lilacs.  Most tree lilacs have creamy white flowers but “Syringa meyeri” has red-purple blooms.

Beginning a cutting garden

If you love to add fresh flowers to your home or bring bouquets to friends why not start a cutting garden?  You can just cut flowers from your regular flower beds if you have an abundance of flowers but you are often torn between cutting blooms for inside or leaving them to make the best display in the garden.  If you have a cutting garden, a garden solely designed to take flowers from, you won’t have those hard decisions.

Cutting gardens can include plants that look good in the vase, but may be hard to integrate in landscape beds and borders.  Gladiolus are an example, they don’t blend well in most mixed beds.  And when you cut the glad flower there is little left to lend interest in the garden.  Plants that have a straggly growth habit, plants that require extra care like tea roses, plants that don’t suit your landscape theme, and plants with flower colors that clash with flowers in your landscape beds are good choices for growing in a cutting garden.

Location for a cutting garden
In order to grow the largest variety of flowers choose a location in full sun. The soil should be tested if there has never been a garden there and amended if necessary.   Most flowers want a well-drained area.

Your cutting garden is best in a spot where it is out of public view.  If you use a lot of flowers from it, which is the point of a cutting bed, it won’t always look as nice as a bed designed to be seen.  A spot behind the garage or by the vegetable garden may work or you may want to plant behind a screen of some sort.

You may want to have separate areas within your cutting garden for perennial plants and annual plants and tender bulbs.  That way when you are digging dahlias out for winter storage or planting zinnias in the spring, you won’t disturb the perennial plants.

Plant selection for cutting gardens
Think of the plants that you like to use in flower arrangements and choose those varieties, but don’t limit yourself.  It’s always fun to try different things.   Plants that bloom prolifically, plants that have sturdy stems for cutting, and plants that are quick and easy to grow make great cutting plants.  Always try to plant a good selection of fragrant plants, for bouquets that smell as good as they look.

Summer or tender bulbs have some good candidates for cutting gardens.  Gladiolus and dahlias are two common ones that come in a wide range of colors and flower forms.  They can be dug up and stored after frost in the fall or treated like annuals and discarded.  Other bulbs to try are tuberose, and calla lilies.

Perennial bulbs make great cutting garden candidates.  You don’t have to worry about the dying foliage making the garden look bad or clashing colors.   Go wild with tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, alliums, Asiatic, trumpet, and oriental lilies.  Bearded and Siberian irises are also great.  Try to choose several varieties that bloom at different times to extend your harvest.

Daisy-like perennials are cutting garden and bouquet favorites.  These include shasta daisies, heliopsis, gaillardia, coreopsis and echinacea.   Chrysanthemums will extend the harvest into fall.

Other good cutting garden perennials include lavender, Russian sage, phlox, ornamental oreganos, Cupids dart, hardy asters, bee balm, hydrangea and goldenrod.  Don’t forget tiny flowers for tiny nosegay bouquets like lily of the valley, pansies and violets.

Annual flowers, those that live just one year, offer many great choices for cutting gardens.  Be picky about varieties; look for ones with sturdy stems and disease resistance.  Good choices are zinnias, marigolds, sunflowers, cosmos, annual asters, cornflowers, snapdragons, salvia, statice, cleome, celosia and calendula.

If you love cut roses you may want to use tea roses as annuals in the cutting garden.  Start with top size potted or bare root tea type roses, plant and care for them well all summer and you will be rewarded with tons of blooms.  If they come back next year it’s a bonus.  Hardy shrub or landscape roses have a different type of flower shape but still can look nice in arrangements and will be more likely to over winter without extensive care.

Cutting garden care
Just because it’s out of sight doesn’t mean it should be out of mind.  Make sure you can get water to the cutting garden if it’s dry.  Fertilize perennial flowers in the spring when they first begin growing with a slow release fertilizer formulated for flowers.  Annuals in the cutting garden require fertilization when planting and about every 6 weeks until frost.

Keep your garden weeded, weeds encourage disease and insect problems and compete for food and water with your desired cutting garden plants.  If you aren’t using all of the flowers for cutting, keep flowers picked off the plants as they fade.  This encourages the plant to keep blooming.  Keep track of what varieties did well for you and what didn’t so you’ll know what to buy next year.

When you have a cutting garden it’s easy to be generous with its bounty.  Almost everyone likes flowers and keeping the flowers cut is good for the plants.    Bees and butterflies can enjoy the flowers until you pick them.  And you won’t feel like you are leaving a big bare spot like you do might when cutting from your landscape beds.  No more indecision- cut away!

 
Help save me.
Watch for turtles crossing the road!

Kim Willis
 “He who has a garden and a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero



Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that you would like to share with other gardeners.  These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Master Gardeners if you belong to an association that approves your hours please check with that association before assuming a class or work day will count as credit.

Do you have plants or seeds you would like to swap or share?  Post them here by emailing me. Kimwillis151@gmail.com

Here’s a seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/groups/875574275841637/

A new herb group is forming!  The Lapeer Herb Circle will meet the 2nd Wednesday of the month at Rebekah’s Health and Nutrition Store, 6 pm. at  588 S. Main, Lapeer ( next to Office Depot).  They also have a facebook page you can join.

New-  Free Garden tour by Michigan Hosta Society, Saturday June 13th, 9 am – 5pm.

Take a self-guided tour through 5 beautiful gardens, public welcome and it’s free!  There will be refreshments at some gardens and vendors will be offering items for sale and demonstrations.  To get more info and a map go to http://easternmichiganhostasociety.blogspot.com/

New- Peonies Galore Sale, Sat, May 30, 2015, 10am, Nichols Arboretum,1610 Washington Heights, Ann Arbor, MI
         
Locally grown heirloom peonies for sale set amid the largest collection of heirloom peonies in North America. 734-647-7600.

New- Welcoming the Summer Get-Together, Auction & Plant Exchange Mon, June 1, 2015, 7pm, Congregational Church of Birmingham, Bloomfield Hills, MI

Get to know your fellow gardeners, share secrets & bid/exchange great plants. Hardy Plant Society 248-693-0334

Learning about Lavender workshop Saturday, May 23, 2015, 11 am -Marguerite DeAngeli Library, 921 West Nepessing St., Lapeer MI

Lavender expert Iris Lee Underwood will share with participants the history of her lavender farm and how her love of lavender began. She will also discuss how to grow lavender, the benefits and uses of lavender, as well as the importance of learning to live sustainably on our land.
Call the library at 810 664-6971 to register for this program.

Here’s a link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road, North Branch.  Now open.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor

Here’s a link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in Michigan.

Here’s a link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.

Here’s a link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston and Brighton locations

Here’s a link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann Arbor, Michigan  | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/

Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214 Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI

Here’s a link to all the spring programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/education/progs/springprograms/

Here’s a link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580

Back Track To Nature offers the following programs to inspire you and deepen your relationship with nature! In partnership with the Lapeer Land Conservancy and Seven Ponds Nature Center these programs are a perfect way for families and adults to enjoy the outdoors.

JUNE 2015

Learn in the Garden Tour  -  A Visit to Three Roods Farm
Monday, June 1, 2015                        9:30AM to 11:30AM and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
4821 One Acre Drive, Columbiaville, Michigan 48421
In this tried and true farm and garden tour we will discover what’s growing at 3RF and learn the meaning of CSA. See what goes into managing a beehive, discover how permaculture garden design uses the inherent qualities of plants and animals combined with natural characteristics of the landscape, and  visit with the chickens, ducks and peahens all living in harmony with one another. Dress for the weather. No admittance fee.  Please call 810-969-1023 to register, children under 17 must be accompanied by a registered adult.

The History of the Land Series - Introduction to Land Stewardship
Thursday June 4, 2015                      6:00PM to 8:00PM
Entrance and parking is located across from 4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan In this History of the Land Series, our focus will be on land stewardship of the Tibbits property.  You will gain valuable information and understanding about what a land steward is required to do: we will discuss how to monitor property, identify encroachments both the animal an human impact and show you how to perform trail maintenance and identify invasive species. Join Karen Page land steward, at the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary a Lapeer Land Conservancy property. Cost is $3.00 per person, children 12 and under are free. Groups of 5 or more please call Karen at 810-969-1023 at least 3 days prior to reserve your spot.

Wild Springtime Tea Party
Saturday, June 13, 2015                   10:00AM to 12:00PM
Cassie M owner of Hilltop Barn will guide us through field and forest to show us how to identify native plants and brew up some tasty teas and learn the how wild edibles are beneficial to your overall health. Please contact Karen Page at 810-969-1023 to register, children 17 and younger must be accompanied by a registered adult. No admittance fee and donations accepted. Please park in the designated parking area.

Living with Less: Talk and Tour of the Tibbits Nature Sanctuary
Saturday, June 13, 2015                     1:00PM to 3:00PM 
4107 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan 48421 Rewire your brain to repurpose, reuse, recycle, harvest rainwater and grow your own foods, begin a new lifestyle recreated by living with less, Tibbits Nature Sanctuary owner Clark Tibbits will share his successful experiences creating a life long choice to live on less. A step you can make toward a living with less can be as simple as adding a rain barrel and a square foot garden to your home landscape. Back Track To Nature owner Karen Page, will demonstrate how to harvest rainwater and grow your own food in a small spaces.  Please call 810-969-1023 to register, children under 17 must be accompanied by a registered adult. Follow the signs and park in the designated parking area.

The History of the Land - Introduction to Wetland Restoration
Monday, June 15, 2015                   9:00AM to 11:00AM and 6:00PM to 8:00PM
Entrance and parking is located across from 4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan. In this History of the Land Series we will explore, observe and study the wetlands and learn about rich and exciting varieties of wildlife and plants, focusing on water lilies, Today, this wetland is cared for by the Lapeer Land Conservancy but it could have been in the backyard of the famous painter Monet who in 1890 developed his own outside studio where water lilies influenced his paintings. Cost is $3.00 per person, children 12 and under are free.  Dress for the weather. Groups of 5 or more please call Karen at 810-969-1023 at least 3 days before to reserve your spot.

Change of the Season – A Guided Nature Walk
Saturday, June 27, 2015               9:30AM to 11:30AM and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
Entrance and parking is located across from  4090 Columbiaville Road, Columbiaville, Michigan Join us for a guided nature walk on the trials of the Hilton and Marjorie Tibbits Nature Sanctuary a Lapeer Land Conservancy property. Bring water bottle, binoculars, camera and field guides. Dress for the weather. This is a walking tour on uneven terrain. No Admittance fee. Groups of 5 or more please call 810-969-1023 at least 3 days prior to this walk.

Learn in the Garden Tour - Planting, Composting and Water Harvesting
Monday, June 29, 2015                 9:30AM to 11:30AM and 3:30PM to 5:30PM
In this tried and true garden tour you will learn basic techniques, of planting, composting and water harvesting to promote sustainability and keep your own garden growing in abundance. This farm and garden tour will be held at Three Roods Farm at 4821 One Acre Drive, Columbiaville Michigan. Dress for the weather. Class size is limited to 15, children 17 and under must be accompanied by a registered adult. No admittance fee. Call 810-969-1023 to reserve your spot.



 
Newsletter information
If you would like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes. You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do reserve the right to publish what I want.
Once again the opinions in this newsletter are mine and I do not represent any organization or business. I do not make any income from this newsletter. I write this because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me.  KimWillis151@gmail.com