September
8, 2015, Kim’s Weekly Garden Newsletter © Kim
Willis
Hi Gardeners
As I write
this the rain has ended temporarily and the sun is trying to come out- which
probably isn’t good since it may boost the storm potential that is due later
today. A quick look at radar shows a big
mass of rain and storms just crossing Lake Michigan and on its way here. We had almost an inch when I checked the rain
gauge this morning and it has been raining for hours since then. I am a little
sick of rain. There are supposed to be
lingering showers tomorrow then we get a partly sunny day before rain returns
on Friday.
And I am so glad it will be cooler next week.
 |
| First brugmansia flower |
West Nile disease
cases in humans are showing up in Michigan.
The mosquitoes have been awful these past few weeks and they transmit
the disease to humans so make sure to protect yourself when outside gardening. Dump out all the things in your yard that
hold water to help keep mosquitoes from breeding.
The rain has
caused many crop and garden problems.
Hay farmers are having a hard time finding a window to cut and dry
hay. This year’s wheat crop, harvested
in late July, has a lot of vomitoxin problems.
Vomitoxin is produced by a fungus on wheat and it does what the name
suggests, makes humans and animals vomit when they eat the contaminated grain. It’s
worse in wet weather and it can affect other grains so farmers are worrying
about the corn crop which won’t be harvested for a while. Soybeans are suffering from a disease called
white mold, caused by wet weather in many areas.
 |
| Brugmansia after a few days |
Gardeners are
experiencing tremendous disease problems on tomatoes. I am still getting some ripe tomatoes but the vines are dying
quickly due to various fungal diseases. Late blight is the problem in some
places but there are plenty of other fungal diseases this year too. Many people
are also having troubles with cucumbers and squash this summer, usually due to
fungal disease. Pepper plants struggled
this year because of cool temps- now the hot weather has made some of them pick
up growth but it’s probably too late to do any good.
Apple harvest
has begun in Michigan with Gala apples and a few other early varieties. The apple crop looks good and apples are
large in size this year. There was no
peach crop to speak of this season in southeast Michigan, a small crop on the
west side. Japanese beetles and spotted
wing dropsilla, a fly like pest are affecting the crops of late raspberries. Grape
harvest hasn’t begun in most of Michigan.
 |
| Inside shot of brugmansia |
The
brugmansia on my deck, variety Cypress Gardens, has finally begun blooming and
I have been fascinated with the process.
Once it began blooming flowers have opened every couple days. The flowers are white the first day and turn
peach-pink the second day. They hang on
the plant for several days and have a light sweet scent like a combination of
lily and jasmine. A white bloom begins
to open in the morning and is open by evening.
The next day it is pink and remains pink. I thought the blooms would quickly drop like
hibiscus but one has been there for 6 days.
The rain has made
the flower beds look drab and droopy.
The hardy hibiscus flowers are hanging like colorful rags and powdery
mildew and rust are infecting plants. At least we haven’t had to do much
watering. I am probably going to have to
bail some water out of my little water feature before the fish flop over the
sides.
Toad lilies
are in bloom. I still have hostas in
bloom along with sweet autumn clematis, hardy hibiscus, rose of Sharon,
dahlias, canna, and a late flush of the hardy roses. My mums are starting to
bloom. I stopped fertilizing the
annuals, they are a bit bedraggled looking but still blooming. Goldenrod and asters are blooming on the
roadsides.
The trees are
starting to change color, especially the Maples. I have a bumper crop of acorns
falling everywhere. Fall is on its way.
Have you ordered your fall bulbs?
It’s time to
get those fall bulbs ordered, before the best things are gone. The catalogs
have been out since spring. It’s often
hard to get yourself motivated to think of planting this time of year but think
how happy you will be in the spring when all your new beauties bloom. I like to try some new species of bulbs every
year. Bulbs are great planted under your
hosta foliage. In the spring they bloom
before the hostas unfurl and then the hosta foliage covers the dying bulb
foliage.
Besides the
typical tulips, daffodils and other spring bloomers now is the time to buy and
plant lilies, iris, and some wildflowers like trilliums. If you don’t have a catalog just go online to
one of the many bulb companies. Try Brecks,
McClure and Zimmerman, Old House Gardens, Van Bourgordien, Van Engelen and
Dutch Gardens for good bulb prices and
selections.
Seeds and fruits that could kill you
Last week I
had a lot of information about seeds but I forgot something. Some seeds and
fruits of common garden plants are not your friends. These plants have devised very effective ways
to protect their babies from being destroyed by animals; they have made them poisonous
with various chemicals. You won’t want to eat any of these. Here is a list of some of those well protected,
poisonous seeds and/or fruit. This list
may not include all poisonous seeds and fruits and certainly doesn’t cover all
garden plants with poisonous parts. The
list includes plants whose seeds or fruits are most likely to attract adventuresome
eaters.
Black Locust- the beans from this tree are toxic.
Castor beans-
a beautiful garden plant that has some of the most deadly poisons in the
world. Ricin, which comes from castor
beans, can kill an adult with a dose the size of a pin head. Castor oil is also made from those beans,
which is used as a folk remedy laxative, and is also a not so friendly home
remedy. If you grow the plants and have
kids, vulnerable adults or pets make sure to cut the flowers off before they go
to seed. The plant should not be eaten either.
 |
| Castor bean plant. |
Daphne – a shrub with spring flowers that
turn into poisonous black berries.
English Ivy- all parts of English ivy are poison but
grown outside English Ivy can produce red berries that may be attractive to
kids and pets but are quite poisonous.
Grown inside as a house plant it rarely flowers to produce berries.
Horse chestnut- the nuts produced by these trees are
covered with a spiny outer coat. While
the “seed” inside may look like an edible chestnut it is poisonous and should
not be eaten, even after cooking.
Jerusalem Cherry- this is generally grown as a
houseplant that is loaded with small red berries. These berries are quite
poisonous and the plants should be kept away from kids and pets.
Jimson weed- datura- This plant is sometimes grown as an
ornamental for its beautiful white trumpet shaped flowers. It’s often called Angels trumpets or
moonflower although both of those names are used for other plants too. The seeds of this plant are inside a thorny
capsule. They are a potent hallucinogenic
but can be deadly if too much is ingested.
Other parts of the plant are also poisonous. Teenagers often hear of the
plant and steal seed pods to get the seeds.
They often end up in emergency rooms after ingesting them and some
people have died from overdoses.
Lilies of the valley- these plants with their tiny white
fragrant flowers produce a red berry that is poisonous. Other parts of the plant are also poisonous.
Mistletoe – this is usually purchased as a
Christmas decoration but the white berries are very toxic – keep it away from
kids and pets.
Morning glory- the Morning glory produces round
papery seed pods full of hard black seeds.
These seeds are hallucinogenic
if ingested and too many could be fatal.
This is another seed that is attractive to teens through word of mouth
but can cause serious medical problems if ingested. Other parts of the plant are poisonous too.
Privet- this common hedge plant produces black
berries that are poison.
Purple hyacinth bean – while bean suggests it might be
edible the bean pods and seeds of this plant are poisonous even if cooked. Keep the pods cut off if you enjoy this plant
as an ornamental.
Kidney beans- this may surprise you but raw kidney
beans are quite poisonous. Cooking makes
them safe to eat.
Oleander- this plant is sometimes grown in pots
in the north for its pretty flowers but in the ground in the south. It has the common name of suicide plant
because just a seed or two can cause death.
 |
| Pokeweed |
Pokeweed – this common weed is striking with
its tall reddish tinged foliage and clusters of purple-black berries. In late
summer it’s one of the most requested plant identification subjects. The young
shoots of the plant can be eaten in early spring if cooked in several changes
of water. They are called poke-salad or poke greens. However the berries are poison- regardless if
they are cooked or not. Mature plant
parts are also poisonous. The berries
are quite attractive to kids and even adults mistake them for elderberries or
other edible fruit. They cause many
cases of plant poisoning each year in the US.
Pokeweed should not be grown where children, vulnerable adults and pets can
find the berries.
Sweet peas- there are wild and cultivated
varieties of sweet peas but they have one thing in common- the pods and beans
are poisonous. Don’t confuse them with
garden peas.
Yews- yews are a soft needled evergreen
often found in home landscapes. All
parts of the yew are poisonous and even a few mouthfuls of yew can kill a grown
cow. Yews produce red fleshy berries
with black seeds inside. While the red
fleshy part is not poisonous – birds like them- swallowing just one or 2 of the
small seeds inside could kill a child.
Yews should not be planted in landscape used by children, vulnerable
adults or pets and should be kept far away from livestock areas.
Gardeners may
choose to grow some of these plants and others that are poisonous which is fine
if they are aware of the plants toxicity and take steps to protect those that
aren’t knowledgeable.
Preparing to bring in the houseplants
and tropical plants
We may not be
getting frost just yet but it’s time to start thinking about where and when you
are going to bring the tender plants and tropicals back inside. If your plants liked their vacation outside
they may have grown tremendously and the spot they occupied last winter may no
longer suit them. Many gardeners will
have purchased or grown new plants over the summer that need inside homes for
winter. Some gardeners will have
discovered that they can overwinter some plants they considered annuals inside
and save money by not having to purchase them next year.
The first
thing to do is survey the inside growing space you have. Know which windows face which direction so
you can plan the right pair up with plants.
Plants can be overwintered away from windows if you have brightly lit
areas or are willing to provide supplemental light somewhere, such as in a
basement. Even with windows some plants
that require high light conditions may need supplemental lighting. The new compact fluorescent bulbs and LED
lights make supplemental lighting affordable and are safer than older light
bulbs.
Will you need
new shelves, tables or plant stands? It’s
time to shop for them or make them.
Small ladders can be painted and make great multilevel stands in front
of windows. Put up shelf brackets on the sides of windows and add shelves so
several layers of plants can share the window.
Some dedicated house plant growers know there is no need for curtains if
you have enough plants.
You should
also be checking over the plants. Do
they need to be re-potted or are they in the ground and need to be potted? Potting is much easier and cleaner when done
outside. Buy some lightweight potting
medium instead of using garden soil to pot plants and they will be lighter,
plus you will have fewer problems with insects and other pests being brought
inside. If plants need to be dug up and
potted do it now and leave the newly potted plants outside until frost or cold
weather. They will adjust better to the
pot if other conditions like light and humidity are the same as their previous
location.
Plants may
need to be pruned or shaped before being brought inside. It’s generally easier to do this outdoors. You
may want to take cuttings of some larger plants and root them rather than
bringing a large plant inside.
Geraniums, coleus, various ivies and vining plants are often better
preserved this way.
Check you
plant containers for signs that mice, frogs or other critters haven’t taken up
residence in them. Drainage holes that
look like they have been enlarged are a tell-tale sign of mouse invasion. You won’t want to bring them inside, dump the
pot and re-pot with clean soil, checking the rootball of the plant for hidden guests. Frogs and toads are often on the pots surface
or lightly dug into the potting soil and can be hard to spot. They can also hide in the foliage.
Pests and
disease problems should be dealt with outside.
Once the plants are crowded together inside these things can quickly
spread. Spray plants with insecticides
outside, rather than polluting your air inside.
You may want to use systemic insecticides if you notice scale or other
insects. These are poured on the soil
and taken up by the plant.
Know when to
bring in your plants. Some plants can be
covered up before a light frost and survive well into late fall outside. Others should be brought inside even before
frost if the nights are getting very cool.
And some plants will need no protection until very hard freezes or heavy
snow is predicted.
 |
| Bring streptocarpus in early. |
In general tropical plants need to come in
first. When nights are regularly getting
into the low 40’s bring them inside.
This includes things like staghorn fern, African violets, streptocarpus,
philodendrons, some bromeliads, orchids, sweet potato vines, Thanksgiving, Easter
and Christmas cacti, and other houseplants that prefer warm conditions.
Plants that
should be brought in when a frost threatens include coleus, rex begonias, peace
lilies, ficus, rubber plants, most jasmines, brugmansia, jade plants, kalanachoe,
mandevilla, tropical pond lilies, ornamental peppers, aloe, gingers, Boston
fern, other tropical ferns, palms, and Chinese hibiscus.
Plants that
can be covered at night when frost is predicted and stay outside a bit longer
include tuberous and cane begonias, poinsettias,
geraniums, spider plants, Norfolk pines, citrus trees, rosemary, dracaenas, (spikes)
polka dot plant, abutilon, hardy jasmine, gardenias and any semi-tender
perennials you are going to overwinter such as plants not quite hardy in your
zone. These should be brought in before
a hard freeze. Some may not be killed
but will go into dormancy and lose their foliage if left out too long. If you are in doubt bring it inside. Better safe than sorry.
You can cover
most blooming true annuals before a frost and extend their garden stay but most
annuals won’t do well when brought inside.
Some tender perennials we use as annuals like petunias also fade quickly
inside.
Potted mums for fall decorations- how
to keep them another season
Fall means
chrysanthemums in many areas of the country. Potted mums in blazing or soothing
colors are outside the doors of every store. Gardeners buy them to pop into
beds where annuals have fizzled or have been killed by frost. They are very
affordable and create a vibrant look in the late fall garden. Potted mums are
also one of the best plants for cleaning pollutants from indoor air, so they
may be good indoor decorations too.
There is
nothing wrong with using mums as annuals, and not worrying if they will survive
the winter. They will continue blooming with proper care until a hard freeze or
snowfall kills them. You can just leave them outside until then. Even if the
tag says hardy mum, many of the mums you buy in full bloom in the fall would
not survive winter and bloom next year if you plant them this fall. But there are some tricks that you can use
that might help you save some of these mums to bloom again another year.
First keep
the mums well-watered. They are often
sold in small pots that dry out rapidly even in cool weather. Keep them in a sunny spot on the deck or in
bright light inside. At this time don’t
use fertilizer on the plants. They are
primed to bloom by greenhouse techniques and the decreasing daylight and don’t
really need it.
If you are
putting them in a garden bed for color, simply sink the pot in the ground. You could plant the mums in the ground but
you’ll actually have less success in getting them through the winter than if
you follow the tip below. While you
could dig them up and re-pot them for winter holding, it’s easier to just leave
them in the pot.
If you do
plant a mum in the ground when you buy it don’t trim back the dead foliage in
late fall. Leave it until spring. Mums do best when the dead foliage is left to
protect the crown over winter. Plant the
potted mums into the ground as soon as you buy them if you want a good chance
of them surviving winter.
When a hard
freeze or good snowfall is predicted it’s time to rescue your potted mums. Bring them inside to a cool room with bright
light. This can be a sunny window in an
unheated room or under a grow light in the basement. Mums will even stay
healthy at temperatures slightly below freezing if protected. The best
temperature would be between 40 and 60 degrees F. Trim off any dead flowers. Many times the plants are still blooming
vigorously when brought inside and that’s fine.
While inside
you will probably need to water the mums less frequently. The pot should dry
out slightly between watering but don’t let them wilt. If they do wilt, quickly water them and they
may revive. Just don’t let this happen too
often. Don’t fertilize the plants now.
Once blooming
slows down or quits cut all of the mum stems back about one third of their
length. If it’s quite cool the mums will
enter a semi-dormant phase. The leaves
will remain green but there won’t be much new growth. That’s a good way to keep
them until about March. Even if the leaves
brown a bit the plant is probably still alive.
Sometimes the leaves and stems will turn entirely brown if they get
really cold but if you look closely and see green near the base of stems the
plant may recover. In this case cut the
dead areas off to about 2 inches from the soil surface.
If you are
keeping them a little on the warm side new growth will appear. Mums can get very lanky and ugly looking if
this growth is allowed to grow unchecked.
Instead pinch out the young tips of new growth after they have reached 2
inches or so. This will keep the plant
compact and nice looking. You may need
to do this more than once.
When March
comes you can bring the mum into warmer conditions if you have a place. If the plant is exposed to natural light the lengthening
daylight will cause the mum to come out of dormancy even if it’s still cool in
its area. You can start fertilizing with
a weak fertilizer solution for blooming plants.
The plant will need water more often as it begins to grow.
Keep new growth
pinched back to 2-3 inches and give the mum as much light as you can. As soon as temperatures moderate in the
spring, the ground is thawed and no hard freezes are likely move the mum
outside. In Michigan that’s probably
around the beginning of May. You can plant it in the ground or re-pot it into a
slightly larger pot. Use some slow
release fertilizer for blooming plants, according to label directions, on the
mums.
If you want a
compact plant pinch off the tips of those stems until mid–June. After that quit pinching to let the flower
buds form. Sometimes a saved mum planted
in the ground in the spring will flower a lot earlier than other hardy mums
because it had a bit of a head start. If the plant is in the ground leave it
there the second winter, there’s a good chance it will return in the
spring. Most mums will get larger and
fuller with each passing season.
Mums are
really better off planted in the ground in spring rather than being re-potted
for a second winter inside. But if you re-potted the mum in the spring and want
to keep it potted, follow the same procedures listed above.
There are
hardy garden mums that will give you years of color. These hardy mums are best planted in the
spring. You’ll find them being sold as
small plants generally, but they grow rapidly through the summer and should
bloom the first fall.
Finally- we’re studying marijuana
botanically
Because of
its illegal status marijuana has been little studied by mainstream botanists
and researchers. It’s hard to collect
grow or transport plants, much less keep them in labs because in many places
such possession would be illegal and not supported by public funding. While the US is still dragging its heels with
this extremely useful plant Canada is coming out of the dark ages. (Note marihuana and marijuana are both correct
spellings.)
Jonathan
Page, a University of British Columbia botanist and Sean Myles, a population
geneticist at Dalhousie University conducted a major study of the evolutionary
history and genetics of cannabis. The study looked at looked at the genotypes
of 81 marijuana and 43 hemp samples.
While marijuana and hemp are closely related hemp is generally grown for
its oil and fiber and has little medicinal or recreational use.
The
researchers found that most cannabis plants come from three species C. sativa,
C. indica and C. ruderalis. Medicinal
and recreational growers have long known of the 3 species and often assign
specific attributes to “strains” of marijuana based on the percentages of each
species genetic contribution to the strain.
For example C.indica strains are said to give a more mellow high and
C.sativa strains a more stimulating high.
In places where recreational or medicinal marijuana is sold you’ll find
sellers touting the advantages of named varieties of pot often based on the
supposed genetics of the strain.
What the
researchers found when they analyzed the genetics of various named strains was
that the growers often didn’t have a good handle on the genetics of the plant
and what species of cannabis contributed to it.
Often growers said the strain was mostly derived from one cannabis
species when actually it came from another.
While there is no doubt that different strains may have different
chemical components and effects on the body, the growers of those strains are
often mistaken about the genetics.
Hemp is
classified as Cannabis sativa, but the C. sativa grown for fiber and oil is
vastly different genetically from the C. sativa strains grown for recreational
use due to selective breeding. It’s
extremely beneficial to learn the genetic differences between cannabis used for
fiber and oil and that used for medicine and recreational use. Some medical uses are more beneficial when a
particular strain of cannabis is used and researchers need to know the true
genetics of those strains so treatments can be standardized. This study is helping botanists get a better
picture of cannabis genetics.
Canada has
the right attitude about cannabis. More
than 80,000 acres of Canadian land is growing hemp for fiber and oil production,
more than any other place in the world.
Canada also licenses 25 medical cannabis growers to provide their more
than 21,000 medical marijuana patients with quality, legal product.
Journal Reference: The Genetic Structure
of Marijuana and Hemp. PLoS One, August 26, 2015 DOI:
10.1371/journal.pone.0133292
Fall web worms
If you are
noticing those huge webs of wiggling worms on the tips of branches on trees in
your area, don’t be alarmed. The fall webworm is a native seasonal pest that
doesn’t significantly harm trees even though they look pretty ugly. In Michigan
we begin seeing the “tents” of fall webworm in late August. Even after a hard
freeze kills the worms inside, or they have become pupae, the nests may hang in
the trees until winter winds dislodge them.
Fall webworms
are often confused with their spring cousins, the Eastern Tent Caterpillar.
Fall webworms enclose leaves at the end of a branch with their white, web like
tent. They feed inside the tent and enlarge it when all the leaves inside are
eaten. Eastern tent caterpillars make their tents in the crotches of branches
and they leave the tent to feed on leaves, returning to the tent for protection
from weather. Eastern tent caterpillars appear in late spring and early summer,
fall webworms late in the summer.
The nests of
fall webworms are usually on the outside branches of a tree, where the branch
extends over an open sunny area such as a road or lawn. This makes them very
visible to concerned gardeners. Each nest contains a colony of small
caterpillars, busily feeding on tree leaves. The caterpillars are either red
headed or black headed. Black headed webworms are greenish, with two rows of
black bumps on the sides. Red headed webworms are tan with orange or red bumps.
Both are covered in long white hairs.
The adult
fall webworm is a small white moth, occasionally marked with a few black spots.
She lays her eggs on the underside of leaves, where they hatch and begin
feeding. The young feed for about 6 weeks then drop to the ground to pupate and
over-winter. Occasionally in Michigan’s southern counties there is enough warm
weather in fall for the first generation to turn into moths and create a second
generation. Levels of the pest are higher in some years too, with heavier
populations every 5-7 years.
 |
| Fall webworm on walnut tree |
Fall webworms
prefer to feed on trees such as wild cherry, walnut, hickories and fruit trees
but can feed on almost any tree. They seldom feed on willows and cottonwoods.
When a tent or web is disturbed all the little caterpillars move in a peculiar
synchronized jiggling movement. This may be their attempt to make a predator
think something much larger is lurking within.
Controlling fall webworm
Since trees
are near the end of their active cycle the loss of leaves from Fall Webworms
doesn’t harm them much. If the nests offend you, you can use your garden hose
to spray them out of the tree or use a stick to knock them down, and then smash
the worms. Worms won’t crawl back up the tree when knocked to the ground. You
can trim the tents out of the tree if doing so doesn’t harm the looks of the
tree. Valuable ornamental trees can be treated with systemic pesticides early
in summer. These go through the tree and kill the worms as they start to feed
on leaves later in the year.
Pesticide
sprays are not recommended as the collateral damage to the environment isn’t
worth it, as trees are barely affected by the feeding of the Fall Webworm. Most
pesticides do not effectively penetrate the webs; they would have to be torn open.
Spraying foliage around the nests may kill the caterpillars when they enclose
more leaves into the web. And burning the tents with a blowtorch is as
dangerous to the tree and to you as it is to the worms.
Fall webworms
have several natural enemies in Michigan including yellow jackets and paper
wasps. If you tolerate these insects on your property then you may have fewer
fall webworms. Birds also like to eat the worms, especially if you tear the web
for them.
Boots,
raincoats and umbrellas today. Add a sweater tomorrow.
Kim Willis
“He who has a garden and
a library wants for nothing” ― Cicero
Events, classes and other offerings
Please let me know if there is any event or class that
you would like to share with other gardeners.
These events are primarily in Michigan but if you are a reader from
outside of Michigan and want to post an event I’ll be glad to do it.
Do you have plants or
seeds you would like to swap or share?
Post them here by emailing me.
An
interesting Plant Id page you can join on Facebook
Here’s a
seed/plant sharing group you can join on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/groups/875574275841637/
Here’s a facebook page link for
gardeners in the Lapeer area
Here’s a
link to classes being offered at Campbell’s Greenhouse, 4077 Burnside Road,
North Branch. Now open.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Nichols Arboretum, Ann Arbor
Here’s a
link to programs being offered at English Gardens, several locations in
Michigan.
Here’s a
link to classes at Telly’s Greenhouse in Troy and Shelby Twsp. MI, and now
combined with Goldner Walsh in Pontiac MI.
Here’s a
link to classes and events at Bordines, Rochester Hills, Grand Blanc, Clarkston
and Brighton locations
Here’s a
link to events at the Leslie Science and Nature Center, 1831 Traver Road Ann
Arbor, Michigan | Phone 734-997-1553 |
http://www.lesliesnc.org/
Here’s a link to events at Hidden Lake Gardens, 6214
Monroe Rd, Tipton, MI
Here’s a
link to all the nature programs being offered at Seven Ponds Nature center in
Dryden, Michigan. http://www.sevenponds.org/education/progs/springprograms/
Here’s a
link to events and classes at Fredrick Meijer Gardens, Grand Rapids Mi
http://www.meijergardens.org/learn/ (888) 957-1580, (616) 957-1580
Exhibitors/demonstrators
wanted
Seven Ponds
Nature Center ( Dryden Mi.) Heritage Harvest Days, scheduled for September 19
and 20 is looking for additional artists and crafters who can demonstrate,
display, and sell their work, especially that related to nature. All exhibitors receive free admission to the
event, as well as free lunch on one day of the festival. Please contact the center
at 810-796-3200 if you would like to set up a booth or exhibit this year.
Newsletter
information
If you would
like to pass along a notice about an educational event or a volunteer
opportunity please send me an email before Tuesday of each week and I will
print it. Also if you have a comment or opinion you’d like to share, send it to
me. Please state that you want to have the item published in my weekly notes.
You must give your full name and what you say must be polite and not attack any
individual. I am very open to ideas and opinions that don’t match mine but I do
reserve the right to publish what I want.
I write this
because I love to share with other gardeners some of the things I come across
in my research each week. It keeps me engaged with local people and
horticulture. It’s a hobby, basically. I hope you enjoy it. If at any time you
don’t wish to receive these emails just let me know. If you know anyone who
would like to receive these emails have them send their email address to me. KimWillis151@gmail.com
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